heli coils
#2
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Pretty easy. Drill, tap, install Heli-Coil. Don't over tighten. Go to Lordco and grab the right size. I had to use them on my slave cylinder when I pulled my motor, as I twisted the heads right off the bolts holding it on. First time using them and they're fine.
Nice pic. You missed by 10 kms.
Nice pic. You missed by 10 kms.
Last edited by RobD; 05-13-2008 at 05:30 PM.
#3
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Yep. They're pretty danged easy. If you buy the kit for the bolt size you're installing you get a drill bit to drill out your existing hole, a thread tap to use to cut new threads for the helicoil and the helicoil insert to do the job.
Just make sure to install anti-sieze lube on the bolt.
Just make sure to install anti-sieze lube on the bolt.
#4
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They are not hard to do, just take your time. And on aluminum use lube ( i learned the hard way) and use some compressed air to help clear the aluminum slivers, cause if they get stuck to the tap they will round or flatten the threads you are cutting
#6
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You'd be best to pull the head if you could. Otherwise, and this is just the advice of a complete stranger, but make sure you use grease on the tap to collect the shavings if you're not going to pull the head. Clean it frequently so they don't end up in the cylinder.
#7
Don't use a heli-coil. For spark plug thread repair, use a Time-Sert. I can usually find them at PepBoys or Autozone, but most parts stores should be able to hook you up or special order a kit
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
instead of wound wire to replace the threads, it uses a solid sleeve. the bigger threads are cut with a stepped tap that uses what's left of the original threads to get started (no drilling) the trick is to put grease in the tap flutes to collect aluminum chips and back the tap out to clean and regrease the flutes
http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
instead of wound wire to replace the threads, it uses a solid sleeve. the bigger threads are cut with a stepped tap that uses what's left of the original threads to get started (no drilling) the trick is to put grease in the tap flutes to collect aluminum chips and back the tap out to clean and regrease the flutes
Last edited by corax; 05-13-2008 at 05:42 PM.
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#8
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Well... now you're saying it's a spark plug hole that's fubar'd.
As RobD mentioned- lube that tap. I'd say lube every 1/8 turn in and back it out 1/2 turn and vacuum out every little shaving you get- keep that vacuum running all the time you are backing the tap out.
As RobD mentioned- lube that tap. I'd say lube every 1/8 turn in and back it out 1/2 turn and vacuum out every little shaving you get- keep that vacuum running all the time you are backing the tap out.
#9
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Thread Starter
Ya guess I should have mentioned it was a spark plug hole.
The time-serts look like a better product, but I still gotta drill...oh well guess I gotta just give er.
The time-serts look like a better product, but I still gotta drill...oh well guess I gotta just give er.
#10
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#11
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Don't sweat the spark plug hole.
Just do like everyone said and use grease and take your time.
What little bits of metal that does find its way into the cylinder will either be burned up from the pressure and heat of blown out during the exhaust cycle.
I had to do this same repair really fast on a Honda so i could make it back to the airport to catch my flight back so i wouldn't be AWOL.
I just reamed the thing out dry, ( i was pissed it broke in the first place)put in the insert they gave me for spark plugs and jammed a new plug in. never a problem.
Just do like everyone said and use grease and take your time.
What little bits of metal that does find its way into the cylinder will either be burned up from the pressure and heat of blown out during the exhaust cycle.
I had to do this same repair really fast on a Honda so i could make it back to the airport to catch my flight back so i wouldn't be AWOL.
I just reamed the thing out dry, ( i was pissed it broke in the first place)put in the insert they gave me for spark plugs and jammed a new plug in. never a problem.
#12
http://www.timesert.com/html/howtosp.html
Last edited by corax; 05-13-2008 at 09:39 PM.
#13
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Thread Starter
You don't have to drill with the TimeSert. Here's the directions
http://www.timesert.com/html/howtosp.html
http://www.timesert.com/html/howtosp.html
Holy crap the timesert kit is expensive...
Last edited by toyotatom93; 05-13-2008 at 10:25 PM.
#16
Imagine if you paid for someone to do it for you. I don't think I'd worry much about aluminum shavings. Its pretty soft- compare drilling aluminum vs steel. or cast iron. Aluminum also burns easy enough.
#17
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Has anyone tried this kit http://www.amazon.com/Perma-Plug-1-2...591027&sr=1-24 i have the same problem i found this online since all i can find local is heli-coils. i have an advantage tho the head is off the block.
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