holsky

Hey guys,

I cant figure out why my blower wont work. If I turn it on it does nothing, ive tryed to look for a fuse and havent found anything. I did find the fuse for the rear heater behind the glove box along with the ac fuse. I noticed that there was a 40amp green fuse up there also and I replaced it and I still have nothing, thinking that it might be the fuse for the blower motor.

I did buy another blower unit and pluged it in and it did nothing either so Im just trying to figure out what else it could be.... Could there be a short somewhere or anything?

If it matters its for a 94 4Runner w/3vze.

Thanks,
Austin

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Blower motor resistor is burnt up. Easy to fix. Separate from the blower motor. Should be easy to find online with some searching.

Jay351

With a bad blower motor resister you should still be able to get full speed.

But its easy to check, look behind the blower motor, you should see a wiring clip that clips into a little peice thats bolted into the floor (two screws holding it in). Unclip and remove it, if the little metal loops are all burnt and falling apart you have found the problem.

holsky

It doesnt work at all. Not even on high.

Could it be a relay? I dont hear anything when i turn it on in any speed.

What are the two relays that are above the ac/rear blower fuses?

Jay351

The fuse for the A/C and FRONT heater are behind the glove box. Not sure where the rear heater fuse is.

There is one relay for the a/c and front heater. Perhaps the other relay is for the rear heater??

Anyways, pull the resister and take alook.

holsky

I took it out and it looks fine... Its basicly look like a white block with 4 prongs attached to it. Both of them look like that. I would want to say that they are both ok.

Jay351

Hmm, that doesnt look like a factory peice. There should be little coils of wiring (resisters) there... There probibly is but its covered by that block.

can you slip it off??

holsky

No I cant, it kinda feels like pottery and its a solid block. Both of them look like that and have the same numbers on them, so I dont know if they are factory or not. The other assembly i have, i got it off ebay and it came out of a 92 4Runner w/3vze i believe.

I guess ill probably have to just buy a new relay and maybe the heater control cluster.

Also my ac light doesnt come on if i push it in.

holsky

Are there any relays in the truck that are the same as the heater one? I want to try a good one and see if thats the problem before i go out and buy a new one thats 40-50 bucks.

I noticed that there was two that look the same in the lower left side kick panel by the fuses. But I didnt know for sure what they went to or if they would work for the heater.

Thanks,
Austin

ryanb0ll

I have a 1991 Toyota Pickup and I used to have only off or high. Luckily today nothing goes at all and we are getting are first snow and cold up here in Wisconsin. If I drive 25 mph I can feel a little bit of hot heat and 65 it feels like it is on low. Probably because the air coming in from the front of the vehicle. I am going to take a look at it right now, but was wondering what the best way to test different parts to make sure I fix the right one. I can take the blower out and hook it up to a 12v battery and see if it turns? If that works then where do I go? Hopefully I can attack this in a quick manner being that it will be a major pain with the snow and ice coming if it doesn't defrost!

crafthorse

Resistors look different on different year model vehicles. They also have differetn mounting sizes and shapes. My BMR went out and only blew high, but eventually stopped all together. Replaced it, and then shortly after the switch stopped working, would blow low only, and then nothing at all. Just replaced the switch today and everything is good! So dont forget to check the switch too!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like the resistor:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...BlowerResistor

holsky

After messing with mine more I found out that my relay was bad.... I replaced it with my rear heater relay and it works perfect now.

ryanb0ll

you guys are great! The motor itself was easy to finaggle out, and my screws were phillips but they also were the 8mm head so I just used a socket to loosen and finger out. Got the motor out and found that I am getting setting 2 and 4(high) from the resistor which is fine for me for now. The motor although only blows when it is upside down? I am also no electrical guru but what would cause such a thing to happen on an electrical motor such as this, or is it maybe my wiring getting twisted which results in a connection. I attach my light circuit tester and when I flip the cord around I get light on all the way around so I believe it is the motor itself? My next test is to hook it up to 12V and wiggle it around, I just need to find some wire in which to hook it up with! Thanks for all the help thus far.

Also does yotatech yank all the threads dealing with repairing frame rust? Some spots on mine, living in the Northern road salt zone are starting to rust through which is concerning me, obviously, and would like to extend the life of this truck even IF I bought it 5 years ago for $500 bucks and put on 65000 trouble free miles on it.

Thanks,

Ryan

ryanb0ll

i have no idea where to start taking this cage off the motor as well!

ryanb0ll

found that the motor itself has play in the plate that holds the brushes. If i pull that plate up towards the where the fan would be in goes like wildfire... if it goes back down in doesn't move. This might be temporary fix, but is there a long term solution to my problem without throwing 60 bucks down for a new simple electric motor? Also what years/models swap with a 1991 pickup

ryanb0ll

well I got a salvage unit from the junkyard from a 1989 4runner. Seemed like a tighter fit getting it in the 1991 pickup, but it fit. Love having that heat again which is good now that were getting 12 inches of snow tonight! Thanks to all!

UpTheYotaPunx

I have that same problem (heat only works on high), and seeing as how winters already started and it seems it may be the beginning of the end for the resistor, I figure I'd better replace it ha.

"4Crawler: Here's a p/n for an '89 Pickup: 87138-89105 $34.52 in 2001"
thanks for posting that! too bad its more than I expected..

also heres the other prices posted by 4Crawler for instant access!:

Rich87toy

Ok so heres the deal. blower motor was freakin loud and didnt have the first setting, So I replaced the resistor ($16), then pulled the motor to take it apart and clean it out. Put it back in and it wouldnt turn on, took it out, hooked it straight to the battery to make sure the motor was good, ran super awesome, put it back in the truck, the high setting worked but it kept blowin the heater fuse, thought I should maybe oil it to make it spin more freely, took it out and pulled it apart and this is what Im left with. This time when I pulled it apart the two shims in the red squares fell out and the magnets that were firmly fixed to the wall of the housing came out. QUESTIONS are...Where do the shims go and how are the magnets attached? Time to just buy a new motor? Why did it keep blowing the heater fuse? Note that my radio stays on even without the key turned (read this might matter) and I can hear the relay click on when I run through the settings.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

ryanb0ll

just happened to stumble back on this thread... the shims in your red box cover the springs to hold them into position if I am thinking correctly. You pop them off and the spring usually comes flying out.