87LVRunner

I searched around but did not find what I was looking for. Headgasket job is done and man does the truck run sweet! I installed a new head in the process with new valves and cam. I set the gap for intake at .008 and exhaust at .012. Both were set with a little drag in the feeler but not a lot. Seems to me that the ticking may be a little loud. Could this be the new valves or do I need to recheck the gaps for the rocker arms and make them a little more snug? I've heard on the 22RE, looser is better. It's not really loud, but noticable. This seems like a bad question but do valves make that noise and quiet down or am I just gapped a little too much?

Thanks all and it feels good to have the 4Runner running great again!!

jsn_stockard

If oil press is good I would re check gap

wardriver

Did you buy the head with the valves in it? If not were they lapped and seated?

87LVRunner

Oil pressure is up right where it's supposed to be. The head was new with valves seated, installed, and ready to go. I will recheck the clearances again after 50 or so miles. I also wanted to retorque the head after it's heated and cooled a few times. I have to say, it's never run so good, just a tad noisy. Of course, I could be fooled and it may just be the cold start injector. I will update after the re-check.

grant526

Did you do the head and head gasket because you wanted a new head and valves? Or did you need to replace the head gasket, so you also did the Head?

I just replaced a blown head gasket on my buddies 93, only to find that once we had it completed, it had a SERIOUS Rod Knock. So we ended up pulling it and rebuilding the entire bottom end. Now it Looks, Runs and Sounds GREAT!!!

Good Luck, Keep Us Posted

thook

Stock cam? Some aftermarkets will have different tolerances for valve settings.

If it is stock, then the 22re's run quieter with tighter tolerances. .007 on the intake and .011 -.010 on the exhaust.

Readjust after everything's broken in at 15k miles. After that, factory specs.

Edit: Factory specs<<< I should say, factory service interval. I've tightened mine to .070 and .011 while warm. Very quiet. .080 and .012 is, of course, fine if you can get them quiet enough to your liking that way. It's personal preference considering .010 isn't enough of a difference to cause problems....just get them quieter. Then again, it's all in the feeler guage and components. If it feels too tight, it probably is.

87LVRunner

Thanks Thook. I'm going to adjust a bit tighter for a bit.

My original reason for doing the job was the headgasket was leaking coolant out the side. Nothing in the oil, no overheating, just leaking out the side, confirmed when I got the head off. The engine was running perfectly before this. I replaced the head, cam, valves, water pump, belts..just about all the bolt on stuff. Figured if I was in there, might as well go all new. The Toyota dealer had to order the w/p as I didn't want a reman. I'm holding onto the old head and if something goes wrong, I can have it machined and put back on. I drove it more today and the sound is getting quieter. I guess the new head was just talking to me.

abecedarian

one other question and one comment-
did you replace the rocker shafts as well?
if you're gonna stick with the .008/.012, make sure you're setting the clearances with the engine warmed up, otherwise a 'tight' .007 and .011 with the engine cold should be fine.

Whiplash Willy

I just replaced my HG and had the head rebuilt, and set the clearances to .007 and .011 cold. My valves are just as loud as they were before the rebuilt head. I think its just the nature of the 22re. My friend with a 22re valves, I have read many posts where people state their valves are loud, and seen many youtube videos of 22res with loud valves. I have yet to hear of or see a 22re that isn't loud.

thook

Mine is can be so quiet sometimes I mistakenly hit the ignition/starter again. No lie. Sometimes I get to stop light and think the motor has died. No lie. I'd get soundbites for you, but I don't have that capability.

And, don't ask me to explain the difference, either. I just can't tell you. But, damn.......it's quiet.

Unless, you're standing right over it. But, still....it's pretty quiet.

abecedarian

if you can't figure out the difference between rocker arms that are tight and quiet on the valves, but have slack on the back of the shafts....
I'm guessing you haven't been anywhere near a Volvo 242.

thook

Who might you be addressing, dear Abe?

Me? If so, I know what you're talking about, but that post (before your last) was in relation to the comments on valves specifically. I really don't know why people can't get there valves quiet.....except for maybe what you've mentioned. In other words, I was just saying it isn't universally true that 22re's are loud.

Last time I hit the starter while the truck was still running was a gas station after I'd just filled up. I logged my mileage and the hit the ignition only to hear the spine wrenching <<<enrgh!>>> from the starter. A guy over on the next pump looked at me and laughingly smiled saying,"Runs good, don't she?". I was embarrassed.......but, was rather pleased with the work I'd done.

thook

Still, I haven't been near a Volvo 242. I have a Peugeot 505, though.

somis13

my work truck's a 12 valve cummins, now thats loud. get use to it, my 4 runner sounds like crap too, but runs bitchen

thook

abecedarian

Happy Holidays!!!

Anyhow, what I was getting at 'bout the rocker shafts was that you've got these rocker arms pivoting on these two shafts. Whenever the cam comes around to actuate the valve, it puts pressure on the bottom half of the rocker arm and rocker shaft. Eventually, one or the other (or both) will wear. Setting the valves takes up that excess clearance / wear at the expense of an increased clearance at the top of the rocker arm / shaft. When the cam releases the valve, the rocker arm can bounce on the shaft creating a sound not unlike loose valves.
According to http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf onpage 15 of the pdf, assuming I interpret it correctly, if you can noticibly 'twist' a rocker arm on the shaft you need to measure the shaft diameter and that point and the rocker arm inside diameter and compare the two in order to calculate your oil clearance. If the difference between the two exceeds 0.08mm / 0.00031" the arm or shaft (or both) need replaced. Yes... that is 8 hundredths of a millimeter, a.k.a. 80 μm, 80 millionths of a meter: around the mean thickness of human hair. Given that little tolerance, it's fairly easy to imagine it doesn't take much wear to start making noise.

Another thing that can happen, though is not likely with new valves, is the top of the valve stem can get pitted (imagine a little dent in the top of the stem where the adjuster contacts it), and your feeler gauge won't be able to account for it so the adjustment could still be off... unless you put your feeler gauge between the rocker and cam lobe.

thook

I recall some post from the past wherein engnbldr/Ted made some referrence to that bit about the rocker shaft. It was a while back and read it in passing, as it were. So, I don't remember much of it. Makes sense, though. I didn't bother checking for that on my complete rebuild, but then I'm not having any "noisy" botherings. So, I guess it's fine....hehe.

Speaking of valves tappets, I did put new adjuster studs in. That might be a difference.

thook

Scratch......

Whiplash Willy

I guess that makes sense, since I doubt most people don't replace the adjuster screws, rocker arms or shafts.

abecedarian

Let me apologize too. I didn't direct my comment about knowing about rockers and stuff and the volvo at anyone particular.