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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 01-03-2009, 10:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Head stuck to block

I can't seem to figure out why the head isn't moving one iota. The exhaust, intake, PS pulley, head bolts (and secret bolt by the cam sprocket) have all been taken off the head. Any ideas as to what would restrict its removal?

There are two pipes that wrap around the back of the head. One is the No. 1 Air Injection pipe that connects the intake with the exhaust--that has been disconnected from the exhaust. Should this pipe or the other be completely removed? I could this these possibly restricting the head, but even the front of the head is not budging. Am I missing something here? Should I just take a rubber mallet to this thing?

Thanks for any advice/ideas!
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Ivery time I've had a head not want to move has been because of a bolt that I missed. If a couple of wacks with a dead blow hammer don't make it move you might need to put something like a bigger punch in a hole to get it moving. I'm not sure about Toys but on every Jeep engine I've had it has had a dowel pin on each end to align the head.

Don't try to drive something in between the block and the head.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmm... can't think of anything off hand. It won't just lift off though if that's what you're trying to do. I don't remember what I did, but use a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer or a block of wood and a hammer to try to loosen it up if you're sure you have all the head bolts out.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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a hammer to the side probably won't do much if you are smacking it completely sideways - there are 2 hollow dowels that will prevent it from loosening much - if you can get a bit of upward swing on it, it might loosen up a bit (as long as you really didn't miss any bolts)

you can also try to gently pry it up, but don't stick anything between the head and block.

are there any brackets still attached that bolt to both the head and block?
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I've removed 3 heads, two came off no problem. One I actually had to use the cherry picker it lift it off (like your lifting the whole motor) and it took a inch or so before it
"popped" off. Sometimes the HG makes a suction seal

never try to pry it off tho (ie putting something between head and block)

otherwise under normal circumstances a few whacks should pop it free but not always
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sometimes the HG will hold the block and head together, especially if you used copper gasket sealer on it. Just get a few hits on it, upwards if possible.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the ideas guys! I double checked all brackets and couldn't find anything. I know I removed the PS bracket from the head. Is there anything else that connects the head to the block other than the head bolts?

I took a foot long 2x4 to the head and hit it with a hammer, but all that did was put a crease in the wood--no movement from the head.

I might try to pry it out if I can find something to use as a fulcrum. I'll pick up on the project tomorrow.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm looking at the FSM for the 22RE. There is a "chain cover bolt" at the front -- appears to be directly centered on the cam. It says to pry between the head and block "saliences." (ha, ha, he said "saliences") Note that on the 22RE there is a bit of the head that extends over the block at the front. It's mated to the top of the chain cover. If the chain has been replaced without removing the head, it's possible that some sticky rtv, or similar, exists there. You can remove the chain cover to see (requires removing the front two oil pan bolts). Also, if you remove the timing chain cover, you'll have a surface on the underside of the head which you can gently tap with a soft instrument. If the head gasket material is still there, you'd be unlikely to inflict damage if you tapped with a block of wood.
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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chain cover bolt is inside the head / timing chain end, in the little pocket next to the distributor- it may be buried in oil. Also, the water pipe to the heater may need come to come off if it's still connected to the intake- it's bolted to the rear of the head as is the pipe from the PAIR reed valve.
If you're gonna swing a hammer at it, use either a dead-blow hammer or place a block of wood where you're going to hit it so you don't damage the head.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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there is also a hex-head bolt located on the side of the water inlet where the thermostat goes in.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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and what did your mother tell you about licking engine blocks when its really cold outside???
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when in doubt, tach it out.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hidden hex key bolt that goes through the intake manifold to the head.
Click the image to open in full size.\

Hidden bolt just below the distributer gear. It will be in a pool of oil. Fish around. It holds the head to the timing cover I think.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if that bolts out you just need to pry it a bit, just dont pry on the mating surfaces pry on a bolt flange or somethin
they tend to get a little stuck on there after a while
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'll bet it's just stuck on the dowels. He's already gotten the intake off = allan head bolt, and the "secret bolt" under the cam sprocket.
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Old 08-01-2009, 10:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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how do you get to the allen head bolt? any certain way you gave to come in from?
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Old 08-01-2009, 10:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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how do you get to the allen head bolt? any certain way you gave to come in from?
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:52 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I don't recall it being anything special... I think you will need to take off thhat upper timing gear though, as it's below that IIRC.
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:52 AM
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