Head Gasket stuff
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Head Gasket stuff
So I'm about to buy a 91 4Runner with the 3.0. It has a blown head gasket. My question, is there anyone in the Denver area that has done a head gasket on the 3.0? And would be willing to help me out for the cost of say a 6-pack of choice and lunch?
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Well, I'm not in Colorado, So I can't offer any physical help. I can tell you that HG on a 3vze is a pretty big job. I did one last week and it took me about 10 hours total.
I would recommend printing out the service manual and taking it one step at a time. Label everything as you take it apart and try to reinstall bolts back to where they go after removing a component to keep things organized.
Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
I would recommend printing out the service manual and taking it one step at a time. Label everything as you take it apart and try to reinstall bolts back to where they go after removing a component to keep things organized.
Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
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Well, I'm not in Colorado, So I can't offer any physical help. I can tell you that HG on a 3vze is a pretty big job. I did one last week and it took me about 10 hours total.
I would recommend printing out the service manual and taking it one step at a time. Label everything as you take it apart and try to reinstall bolts back to where they go after removing a component to keep things organized.
Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
I would recommend printing out the service manual and taking it one step at a time. Label everything as you take it apart and try to reinstall bolts back to where they go after removing a component to keep things organized.
Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
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so... running the VIN number for the HG issue at the dealership... has it been done before? my friends dad had it done twice for free... lol... the first dealership goofed up putting his name in, and he got a new engine for free. few years later HG popped, he took it to another dealer and they fixed it for free. lol. maybe you could get lucky here... doesnt hurt to try... hey i took mine in for a recall i had no clue about. something with the fuel line being a tad short, or something.
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Not yet. Still in the middle of moving to a new place, so the garage is not available.
It theoretically shouldn't. But I won't know until I get it torn down.
I'll give that a shot.
so... running the VIN number for the HG issue at the dealership... has it been done before? my friends dad had it done twice for free... lol... the first dealership goofed up putting his name in, and he got a new engine for free. few years later HG popped, he took it to another dealer and they fixed it for free. lol. maybe you could get lucky here... doesnt hurt to try... hey i took mine in for a recall i had no clue about. something with the fuel line being a tad short, or something.
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On a side note, If you're gonna do the head gasket, plan on replacing the typical stuff while you're in there (valves, sensor, timing belt, etc). Nothing worse than finally getting the thing back together then having your water pump go out (trust me). Magnafluxing the head's isn't a bad idea either to save you a headache in the future.
#13
On a side note, If you're gonna do the head gasket, plan on replacing the typical stuff while you're in there (valves, sensor, timing belt, etc). Nothing worse than finally getting the thing back together then having your water pump go out (trust me). Magnafluxing the head's isn't a bad idea either to save you a headache in the future.
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It shouldn't need valves, timing belt, etc. It was rebuilt about 20k ago, but the genius mechanic used the same head bolts. And the brilliant PO didn't keep the oil change receipts for the warranty.
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You're right, scratch magnaflux; I've been hanging out in Small Block Chevy land lately. That reminds me of a Coor's Light refrigerator magnet I have: "Coors Can Test: If this sticks, it isn't aluminum" ha ha.
#16
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Without taking the head(s) off you dont know yet if it was even the HG. could be a cracked head. I'm not familiar with the 3VZE's intake but an intake gasket leak could allow coolant in that way to, there are many factors.
I parked my parents 87 2wd a year ago for a "blow headgasket" having known it had a new one put in 12k ago and the head was cracked, and was welded and milled i figured the head was a goner. I just pulled the head the other day and the head appears fine, there is an obvious blow out in the #1 cylinder in the headgasket.
The head on my truck, which I just got done re-assembling my motor tonight with a new cylinder head because my head was cracked, my HG didnt fail, the head did. Crack on the #3 cylinder between the water jacket and on the exhaust side.
Hopefully its the HG (most likely) but having two cracked heads sitting in my garage right now just proves to me anything is possible.
#17
Do you have any pics of that head? Is it pretty obvious, or did take a close inspection to find the crack? Just curious, cause I haven't come across one yet.
#18
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This looks like a good time to repost EB's head bolt torquing tricks, enjoy
>>>*Morning!
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
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How do you know he re-used the headbolts? Besides, might of just used a cheap HG. Theres many possibilities for it failing this soon after a rebuild.
Without taking the head(s) off you dont know yet if it was even the HG. could be a cracked head. I'm not familiar with the 3VZE's intake but an intake gasket leak could allow coolant in that way to, there are many factors.
I parked my parents 87 2wd a year ago for a "blow headgasket" having known it had a new one put in 12k ago and the head was cracked, and was welded and milled i figured the head was a goner. I just pulled the head the other day and the head appears fine, there is an obvious blow out in the #1 cylinder in the headgasket.
The head on my truck, which I just got done re-assembling my motor tonight with a new cylinder head because my head was cracked, my HG didnt fail, the head did. Crack on the #3 cylinder between the water jacket and on the exhaust side.
Hopefully its the HG (most likely) but having two cracked heads sitting in my garage right now just proves to me anything is possible.
Without taking the head(s) off you dont know yet if it was even the HG. could be a cracked head. I'm not familiar with the 3VZE's intake but an intake gasket leak could allow coolant in that way to, there are many factors.
I parked my parents 87 2wd a year ago for a "blow headgasket" having known it had a new one put in 12k ago and the head was cracked, and was welded and milled i figured the head was a goner. I just pulled the head the other day and the head appears fine, there is an obvious blow out in the #1 cylinder in the headgasket.
The head on my truck, which I just got done re-assembling my motor tonight with a new cylinder head because my head was cracked, my HG didnt fail, the head did. Crack on the #3 cylinder between the water jacket and on the exhaust side.
Hopefully its the HG (most likely) but having two cracked heads sitting in my garage right now just proves to me anything is possible.
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I just got the intake manifold off mine, I have thus-far assumed that the head gasket is done however my intake gasket was broken!
I drained the radiator and it was full of oil, I haven't drained the oil yet, though its very chocolatey. ;-)
Last edited by forbiddenera; 08-29-2008 at 08:04 PM.