lastcall

1990 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.0, 4x4 with auto trans.

I have to disassemble the engine to replace the head gaskets, looking to purchase a set that covers all the components needed for reassembling. Looking at Fel Pro KS2813 and thought it best to check with knowledgeable member's for any advise or suggestions. Had to drive the vehicle to a safe location, few miles, but the engine temp. was max'd and bellowing white smoke out the exhaust, not sure what to expect with water getting into the cylinders? I do not intend purchasing gasket set until the heads are removed and engine inspected. Unsure how to approach, appears to be a daunting task but I have been reading the owner and repair manuals, should help. Removed a few items and been taking pic's; also put the word out I am looking for a knowledgeable Toyota mechanic to assist, uncertain how that will work out, not the best working conditions.

Suggestions/Advice appreciated!!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Check oil, if coolant in oil. Just use felpro gaskets. If oil is clean I'd use Toyota head gasket. But I'm a 22re guy so don't know as much about 3.0. But experience has proven that Toyota head gaskets are far better than others, well for 22re for sure. I'll even by another gasket kit for other gaskets but buy Toyota head gasket.

lastcall

After reading your comments, called local Toyota dealership and they do offer a head gasket set; although, the parts person did not know what the set included; $400. Intend comparing the Toyota set with the Fel Pro, which runs around $200? Checked oil and appears slightly milky, intend draining pan as soon as weather permits.
Agree, can not beat the quality of Toyota replacement parts.

I thank you for the input!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just get the Toyota Head gaskets and use your brand of choice for the other gaskets needed

Do some more searching I know there are lots of threads about 3.0 Head Gaskets

You might be ahead to just swap a used engine in

lastcall

Did not go all out searching for used engine, on the surface it appears the prices range from $700 plus, for used long block, and up to $1500 plus, for the entire used engine. Warranties somewhat suspect but whether it is a used or rebuilt on a 'do it myselfer' installation imagine a warranty would not apply. Kinda leaning towards a rebuilt long block, or perhaps if I can locate a local reputable shop have them rebuild the original engine??

Thank you for the input!!

blueknob

you can buy toyota oem head gaskets for under $50 per side, just search part no. 11115-65033, and 11116-65033, then buy aftermarket for the rest of the gaskets

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You probably don't want an engine out of a sub 2000$ donor but don't over look a whole vehicle as a donor, nice low mile soccer mom with fender benders, they are not all trash. By swap it he means to a different engine like the 3.4, which I'm sure you've seen engine and long block prices are pretty equal between engine series. A donor vehicle in that case nets you a rebuildable engine and all the little diddley bits.

Ponder this. How is ordering a rebuild long block different from shipping your core to be rebuilt. What is the motivation for a local, shipping, pricing , rapport? If it's just cause you want to strangle them when it throws a rod, be honest your not gonna throttle the desk jockey or the machinist.

Used engine warranty is usually along the lines of "we warranty it came from said vehicle with the noted mileage" not that it's going to live a year or 5000miles

lastcall

[QUOTE=blueknob;52347416]you can buy toyota oem head gaskets for under $50 per side, just search part no. 11115-65033, and 11116-65033, then buy aftermarket for the rest of the gaskets[/QUOTE

I thank you for the suggestion, purchase OEM head and valve cover gaskets, and supplement the remaining gaskets thru aftermarket source.

With 220K miles on the engine, I am now trying to determine what components I need to removed to inspect the heads and the condition of the engine vs pulling the engine, if not that much more involved then perhaps pulling would pose a couple of other options, particularly if the engine has been damage by water getting into the cylinders??

Again, thank you for the input!

lastcall

[QUOTE=Co_94_PU;52347422]You probably don't want an engine out of a sub 2000$ donor but don't over look a whole vehicle as a donor, nice low mile soccer mom with fender benders, they are not all trash. By swap it he means to a different engine like the 3.4, which I'm sure you've seen engine and long block prices are pretty equal between engine series. A donor vehicle in that case nets you a rebuildable engine and all the little diddley bits.

Ponder this. How is ordering a rebuild long block different from shipping your core to be rebuilt. What is the motivation for a local, shipping, pricing , rapport? If it's just cause you want to strangle them when it throws a rod, be honest your not gonna throttle the desk jockey or the machinist.

Used engine warranty is usually along the lines of "we warranty it came from said vehicle with the noted mileage" not that it's going to live a year or 5000miles[/QUOTE

Unfortunately I lack the space for disassembling a donor. As noted in my previous post, appears removing the engine as opposed to repairing in the vehicle is possibly the better option, not clear how much more would be involved?

Agree, trying to desire which route to take is an ongoing process particularly since I do not have a clue how to do either, do find the repair manual helpful. If I can find a local, and reputable rebuild shop certainly would prefer going that route, came across a possibility, left a message an awaiting their response,

Thank you for the suggestions.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Battery, radiator and coolant, intake piping and air meter, heater pipes, fuel lines, various electrical connections, exhaust pipes, and accessories. Are all shared tasks.

Pulling the engine requires disconnecting the transmission, bolts and any electrical or fluid pipes. Disconnect the engine harness from the ECU and push it through to the engine bay. Remove the AC and PS pumps from thier brackets. Double check it's all loose string it up and it's ready to pull hanging by gravity once the engine mounts are released.

​​​​​​It's a trade off do a little more work or do a little less work while folded into a pretzel half your size.

blueknob

​​​​​​

DallasTX

I just recently purchased the 3.0 3VZE overhaul kit from Toyota Dallas online. part 04111-65018 for $300.08, but I think I agree with blueknob and just get the head gaskets from Toyota. Some items, like the crush washer might be hard to find other than at the dealer. I think I have those part numbers too and will post later then you can see if they fit your using their online store.

The kit includes some "nice" items like the timing belt cover gaskets, but I could have just re-used the existing. I did not use several of the gaskets since I did not do removal all of the components. Have not done the math, but think it might have been better to not purchase the kit.
I will post pictures of the contents since I did not recognize some of the gaskets...they are "left overs" for me. The one gasket not included which is needed is the throttle body to intake plenum gasket.

Basically, includes
timing belt cover gaskets
valve cover gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
head gasket
plenum gasket
injector rail crush gaskets
fuel injector o-rings, spacers and pintel caps (I think that is what they are called)
thermostat gasket
cam shaft seals
exhaust pipe gaskets for cross overs and back to cat converter
front main
rear main
cold start injector gasket
ERG gaskets
dip stick o-ring (at least that is what I used it for and it seems to fit)
water bypass housing gasket
valve seals (missing in picture because they had already been installed)
I have no clue what some of them are...like #16 and 17 in the pictures

For what it is worth, I pulled entire engine....and ended up replacing a lot of other things just because it was easier while engine was out such as stater contacts, alternator brushes, power steering pump gaskets, timing belt, oil cooler gaskets, etc, etc. Had to replace the coolant temp sensor and connector housing because it literally came apart when trying to disconnect the wire. Also plan on the injector housings breaking and replacing the knock sensor pigtail. I have a lot of these part numbers if you think they will help.

lastcall

I greatly appreciate Us all comments and suggestions!!

Been calling local shops who claim to rebuild engines only to find they basically go thru a used, or rebuilt engine distributor and swap out the engine. They prefer they pull and install; quoted approx. $3000.

Familiar with another shop, aint cheap; rebuilt couple engines for me, who pull the engine, rebuild, then install for around $4500? If I bring the engine it runs approx. $3000, does come with a warranty, however, apparently I any problems I have to pull and bring the engine for inspection.

Intend research; meantime, pull the engine while exploring sources and options.

Again, I thank U's all!!