Nik

Hey everyone, just finished up my first HG replacement on my 3VZE. It ran really rough when i started, pretty bad stumble upon acceleration/rough idle/poor mileage. Before i dived in to the HG i replaced the cap and rotor, O2 sensor, plugs, wires etc. I assumed it was a HG on account of the white smoke and a shop finding hydrocarbons in the coolant, and i figured i would just go ahead and jump into it and fix any discrepancies i found on the teardown.

I used the fel-pro gaskets, everything went fairly smooth (aside from an off torque wrench stripping out 10 holes on the head)
I got everything buttoned up and started it up and it ran just as rough if not a little worse, pulled a code and got 25, so its running lean somewhere. sprayed carb cleaner around the vac lines and it didnt seem to kick up the idle at all. I wanna sell this thing cuz i hate the motor so much, I gotta get it running good since im not about to screw over a buyer like what was done to me when i bought this thing ($3500 and drove it home to find out my rear diff was screwed, along with my radiator, and it stumbled and would sometimes die in traffic. All symptoms showed up the next day after i bought it of course.)

Any suggestions on what i should try next? Im 95% sure i put everything back together perfectly but this IS my first HG replacement, Ive never blasted apart a car motor this much before tho i have rebuilt many motorcycle engines. Thanks in advance for your guys' help, absolutely love this site. Ive been a lurker for a while and figure i should get more involved, haha

wcasey5

Check the hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body for cracks/leaks.

mitutoyo

Try seafoaming it first. Trucks and SUV's tend to experience more rich conditions due to the weight they carry or haul around. This excess fuel leave behind deposits that often clog up injectors. If fuel pressure checks out fine, get your fuel injectors serviced. I mean off the car serviced so you know how each individual injector is performing. This is one of the most overlooked but critical components of the fuel system.

ksti

Ten holes stripped out, have you done a compression test?

YotaWoRx

Did u align the cams and crank correctly when u installed the timing belt????

Nik

cams and crank are aligned correctly, quadruple checked. non of the headbolts stripped but lots of the exhaust manifold and cam bearing caps did, i took care of them tho. Hoses between the air cleaner and the throttle body are all cherry, changed all the hose clamps. Will try a compression check and seafoam it tomorrow. I resistance checked all the injectors and cleaned the spray hole with solvent. the plastic tips on the very end of the spray side of the injectors were crumbled on 2 of them but i couldnt find ANYONE who sold them without buying all new injectors, and I simply didnt have the money for that and I figured they were fine without.

mitutoyo

FYI, the replacement injector caps can be purchased on Ebay for cheap. Also without actually flow bench testing your injectors there is no way of knowing how balanced they are.

Nik

Copy, guess I'll go pull that plenum again and flow bench those suckers

bruno4turbo

also make sure your vacuum lines are correct, i did the HG on mine in december, and couldn't get it running good for the life of me, so i found 4 different vac diagrams and kept messing with my lines until it purred. also my injectors where in really good condition but the wiring harness wouldn't clip on correctly so it felt like they where broken, spliced new connectors and used zip ties to hold em for good measure, work like new.

side note, if the diff was messed up, drain flush and refill your transmission, if its really old fluid it'll effect the driving capabilities of the truck, also it looks nice on the "for sale" add usually its just a problem on automatics but in extreme cases it does mess with manuals.

also if sold a vehicle under the impression of perfect/great running condition "no mechanical issues" etc, and you find in the first 6 months, non-driver abuse issue arises, by law you can get your money back. as long as no where in their advertisement of the vehicle said "sold as is" private or dealership sales they can't knowingly sell you something broken without notifying you first.

Nik

Good advice, gonna go do that now. Whats a good way to flush the tranny? Acetone? also where did you get your hands on vac diagrams? Can only seem to find the same one on the net and its really hard to see what goes where

bruno4turbo

"flush" just drain all the oil out, don't really need any kinda cleaner, to be really sure of it being clean just drain, fill, run, drain fill and you're good. also i just google img mine diagrams. they're all similar but have some differences

AndyKrashYota

Sorry about bargin in on the convo. Im here in alaska and am about to dive into my blown HG. Ive got in touch with the local yota guru and got all the info i need "almost". If my timing is not off or the guides not broke should i still replace them? Other than that i am changing HG, water pump and thermostat. Its my daily driver so im not typically out off roading.

I have a bit of background with vehicles and powersport equip. Im confident i can do all the work on my own and have been taking photos of pre-dissassembly. I ran coolant cleaner through the system before i change the pump. Other than that is there anything i should re-place while im in her? Whats the tollerance for the head or should i have it milled as a precaution.

AK ANDY

Nik

Its a good idea to replace your timing belt while you have everything already apart (im assuming you have a veezy.)
Probably a good idea to get the heads milled as a precaution, itll be about 100 bucks and itll decrease the chances of another gasket blowing out. Get a full upper gasket set (plenum-intake gasket, intake-head gasket, valve cover gaskets, injector O rings, exhaust gaskets) you can get a set from rockauto.com for cheap.

Since the head is aluminum i would chase all the threads on the head with a tap, also might be a good idea to stop at your local pick n pull and grab as many bolts as you can get your hands on (exhaust studs, cam bearing bolts, valve cover bolts.) When i was reassembling everything i found alot of my bolts were forsaken. New headbolts (of course) and a few feet of vac lines so you can replace any chapped vac lines along the way. My 2 cents after just doing a HG. Also, be sure to remember to set your exhaust crossover pipe on top of the tranny just in front of the firewall before you put you heads back on, i put my heads back on first and the crossover pipe would not fit between the heads and the firewall so i had to pull a head off again, I was pissed.

Good luck, it looks a lot more daunting than it really is. Its good that you snapped pictures before hand, wish i had done that haha.

AndyKrashYota

It worked good when i was building MX bikes. Im limited on money so its basiclly a bare nesentials build.

Vac line is a damn good idea.

I have been having to drive it to work but i have been super cautious for overheating. I was going to try the blue devil HG sealant until the weekend so i could keep driving it. But i think i will just park it so the damage doesnt get worse.

Ive got 5 hours in between teaching my welding classes. I dont quite think that would still be enough time.

I apriceate the help and hints

bruno4turbo

if you wanna change the guides upgrade to the metal guides new tensioner and new chain, as i see in you're little title its a 22re? check out my build thread, here in my signature i have some pictures and of the work i did, feel free to ask any questions there.

Nik

I tried the blue devil and it didnt work for me, ive heard many people say it worked perfectly tho. might as well give it a try, they give you your money back if it doesnt work 50$

AndyKrashYota

I just got the head off and it was totally blown in cyl 3,4.

Ill check out your build. just gotta do clean up now. I paid the extra coin and got the timing kit with the metal backer

Nik

Just noticed one of my injectors is leaking around the fuel rail, new valve seats are on their way. Still throwing a code tho so that wasnt the whole problem

Nik

Hey everyone, I snapped off one of the offset studs on the intake manifold that fastens the fuel rail down onto the injectors, any ideas on how to fix this??

bruno4turbo

drill it out, tap new threads, and either get a new stud and lock tight that in, or get a bolt.