9o7yota

Im about to put my timing back together..actually i have put half of it back on, which doesnt include the top cam gear and the chain. My question, is do i or should i put the head back onto the block before i do anything more on the timing? Im assuming that i have to just put the chain and top gear on, and let it sit onthe chain guides...until the head is back on. The Haynes tells me to tape the tensioner back to allow me to get the gear onto the cam once it is in place. Ive also heard of people sticking something in there to compress the tensioner instead of tape... So... do i put the head of before i put back the timing cover?... advice? anyone?

bajatoyo

hi you need to put the head before the timing cover and to make it easier,,,lower the oil pan at least 3 inches.......I hope this helps

Karlton

I would recommend installing the timing cover first. You can do the head first like bajatoyo says, but if you do, you risk screwing up you head gasket (which is why he's recommending dropping the oil pan).

You shouldn't need to tape back the tensioner. Install the timing cover, torque to spec, install oil pump and crank pulley.... then install head, torque to spec.

Use a long screwdriver or something suitable to pry up on the upper sprocket while turning the crank back and forth back and forth. You'll have the sprocket on the cam in no time.

9o7yota

Okay, so. My oil pan is not back on the truck yet. I'm going to leave it off until almost final assembly of everything.

I've also heard from everyone, except you Karlton, that prying up on the cam gear while the tensioner is tight...is a big nono. So i'll do the screw driver technique to compress the tensioner once the head is on...and i guess ill do the timing first and then reinstall the timing cover before the head goes back on.

whokrz

I used a broom handle to compress the tensioner. There is also a link to FSM that you may find useful.

Karlton

Excerpt from the FSM:
"(a) While holding up on the sprocket and chain, turn the
crankshaft until the No. 1 and No. 4 cylinders are at
top dead center.
(b) Place the chain sprocket over the camshaft dowel.
HINT: If the chain does not seem long enough,turn the
crankshaft back and forth while pulling up on the
chain and sprocket."

The illustration shows a hand pulling up on the upper chain sprocket. You need strong fingers for that. Pulling up on the chain while turning the crankshaft back and forth will compress the tensioner. You don't need to turn it much ... just like 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn back and forth.

I put a screwdriver thru one of the top holes (NOT the center hole) on the cam sprocket, then I put a stick of wood across the head to leverage against without marring the head. The moved the crank back and forth and used the screwdriver to apply upward pressure on the cam sprocket. It went on very easily.

You DO NOT want to use brute force with the screwdriver .... you only want to maintain some moderate but steady upward tension on the sprocket. If you are concerned about it slipping and marring the head you could perform the same procedure using a 1/2 inch hardwood dowel.

Or if you've got strong fingers, skip the screwdriver part.

I didn't think of using a broom handle to compress the tensioner. Someone ought to compile this kind of stuff into a book!

thadlinkwent

I put the timing cover on before I put the head on. I used a bungee thru the top sprocket to keep tension on the chain. Then I used the lug nut wrench from my blazer (the handle is about a half inch wide and about 2 feet long) with a piece of cloth taped to it to compress the tensioner from the top. Worked the first try.

Don't forget to put rtv or fipg where the timing cover meets the head/deck of the block.