shadowbirdie

Finally got to tear down the intake side of the 22RE, pulled the injectors, never actually seen one before, saw the parts to replace according to Haynes and FSM, but not mentioned anywhere is a "nipple"(some kind of plastic thing on an original) at the manifold end which all disintegrated when the injectors were extracted. Haven't checked dealer yet but NAPA has a 3 piece kit (2 grommets and an o ring), they used to have a 4 piece including said nipple, but it has been obsoleted.
Does that mean we have decided we can live without it?
All 4 are in their own script bottles full of seafoam until reassembly.
Picture shows missing the nipple
Thanks

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I think you are talking about the cover that goes over the very end of the injecotr? I have had them to come off and be so deterioated that I just left them off and no issues.

Here is the seal kit I get, you get screens also for the same price as you are going to pay at a parts store for the seals.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...mtr&rmvSB=true

scope103

Commonly called a "pintle cap." There is no Toyota part no. for them, but they are commonly offered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331112021116?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
23,000 miles ago I didn't know that, so I just reinstalled those injectors with broken caps. It doesn't seem to have made much difference, but once again I have the opportunity so I am replacing them now.

shadowbirdie

Like I said, never actually seen one before, but seen lots of pics, the tip is always just the metal injector. Looks like a boot with a round hole in it surrounding the outputs. I'm going with $1.50 each and live without the "boot", I already have a filter the size of a ben and jerry's container.
Something you can't figure out it's function anyway will be bypassed in this case. Definitely wasn't putting the broken ones back in... by lack of availability it appears it was an engineering overkill at design, an American trait. TB, Plenum and manifold going for ultrasonic for $30. I thought the TB looked bad in front of the butterfly, found like 1/8 inch of San Diego sand and carbon buildup behind it into the plenum, what a mess!! I'm guessing at this point but it appears the whole EFI etc. harness all terminates at the ECM? I'm going to pull it, clean it and replace all the tape and spiral wrap, seems a good idea and a simple job
Thanks

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks scope103 for that link with the pintle cap, I added it to my parts list.

The EGR can be cleaned. I do not use a screw driver to get the tube out of it as it will strip. I use a pair of vise grips with a firm grip to get it loose. Once the screw is out, leave the carbon in the tube and use the vise grips to get the tube out of the EGR. It will help to keep from crushing the tube. That carbon is hard as a rock. Use a drill bit with your fingers to get all the carbon out.

While you have it that far down, I would clean the sensors. They get hard water build up on them.

shadowbirdie

3 pictures for 3 subjects
Got the intake off took 3 times long as expected, why did I buy that Haynes manual, oh ya the price.. So Haynes says intake connected by 8, 6 bolts and 2 nuts. I was already up to 9 when I still couldn't get the intake to let go. Completely undocumented hex cap screw about 4 inches long just in front of the thermostat mount, that's why the FSM is so good (don't know if it's in there either yet) I want to replace it with something standard but don't know for sure that it's there because of a clearance issue or something, are these changes common in mid production run??
I found during disassemble that the flexible clutch line is about 3 inches too short caused by the 3 inch BL so no attachment at either end.. Anyone know what vehicle I might ask for for a longer substitute? Or maybe I'm just going to have to trial and error search for it.
Somebody was asking about a coolant line and where it belonged, I found it after pulling the intake, goes from pump to heater core line, with a side route to the throttle body if still wondering..
So much fun, and even factory goobering as it turns out..
Fun Fun Thanks J

RatOmeter

During my rebuild I bought this ebay kit for my injectors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1995-To...item58c5b4d6a8

It works out to be about $5/injector, not too bad. The gray pintle caps fit, it comes with extra o-rings, and mine came with two different sets of filters.

All the carbon build up is from the EGR. If you don't have emissions testing then IMO you should delete the EGR, it will clean up your engine bay and keep the plenum free of carbon build up. I made my own block off plates for near nothing.

Also while you have it apart be sure to inspect the brass elbow fitting on the intake mani. Mine developed a pin hole leak, drained the coolant and caused the head to warp...

scope103

I've heard this before.

But it's wrong.

The carbon buildup is from the PCV system. This picture is 23,000 mi after cleaning. If the carbon was coming from the EGR system, the carbon would be heaviest at the tip of the tube (where the exhaust comes out). Instead, it's just stuck on the middle, which is right next to the exit of the PCV port.

So leave your EGR system as built; without it, you're not just sneaking something past the authorities, you're poisoning all of us.



(If this EGR tube had as many uncleaned-miles as we are usually talking about, it would be covered with crud over its whole length, to a depth where it would catch on the plenum as you attempted to pull it out.)

osv

egr systems clog up from carbon buildup coming out of the exhaust... that exhaust gas gets drawn into the intake plenum via the egr.

22re intake plenums have the egr gases travelling down the length of the plenum, where the gas exits right behind the throttle plate... that exit area is a clogged-up carbon mess, that has the consistency of concrete.

pcv valves don't clog up from carbon buildup, rather it's fuel and oil residue, which contributes to junk buildup inside the plenum.

RatOmeter

Yeah that exit area and the rest of the plenum and intake mani were covered in that concrete like black carbon build up. No degreaser I used would make it come off, I ended up making a mixture of naptha, gasoline, and denatured alcohol and soaking the TB, Plenum, and intake manifold. That cleaned it right out!

shadowbirdie

Way in the past now, was looking at the part about removing the EGR ˟˟˟˟, removing parts and covering ports seemed easy as it's a Cali truck and this is Idaho, far more lenient.. Took it all over to Wood's, they had stuff I just don't have at home (Lye and 180 degree water) no ultrasonic to be found around here, worked out great for a 20 to clean everything!! I'm just leaving well enough alone, maybe next time if there is a next time.. time to assemble and DRIVE IT!!, but it will be colorful

scope103

I hope not! Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) will dissolve aluminum. Back in the day when all engine parts were steel (and SAE measurements), lye was used for cleaning (it saponifies -- turns to soap -- the oil). I don't know what exact chemical is used today in shops, but I know it's not lye.

That said, if you have the time it's hard to beat paying a professional to run parts through their cleaner.

shadowbirdie

But Thanks, his shop is full of work, he just helps us out locally for a cheap price. 3rd generation, his grandfather started the company, I'll go with him.
Bought the 2.5 ltr ultrasonic at HF this morning $60 with the 20% off coupon. Opened it up and sealed the notorious leak with RTV straight out of the box. Pretty much half the underhood hardware went in for 3 cycles (10 minutes), almost looks new considering 25 years old, better than wire brushing each piece, but turned the purple power brown..