Steve Weldon

I have a 1992 Pickup, DLX V6. A few times it refused to start. It would turn over and turn over and you could smell fuel and it just wouldn't start. I tried it over a period of days and couldn't find a reason. Finally, twice, I was moving the truck by hitting the switch where you could run the starter while in gear, and both times it started up! The first time I figured it was a coincidence, but I was stranded today for 8-9 hours and it wouldn't start and finally I figured I'd try it again,.. and it started. Any ideas?

Thanks

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It just cranks when you push the clutch in .

Yet when you turn the engine over with the truck in gear clutch out it cranks and starts

Is this a new truck to you ?? This problem just started ??

Does this have any type of alarm system ??

Does it have the clutch safety switch on the dash have you tried pushing that ??

Unless you have after market wiring that might have been twisted around the clutch linkage the only thing that should be effected by not pushing in the clutch is the clutch safety circuit

Steve Weldon

Yes, when you push the clutch in nit just cranks.

Yes, with the clutch out you turn the engine over and it starts. You have to push the clutch in real fast once you hear it catch and then it gurgles for a short period before running perfectly.

We've had the truck a few years and its been problem free until now.

No alarm.

The clutch safety switch is what I pushed to start it in gear.

Could the clutch safety switch fail intermittently?

scope103

Well, I don't know much about manuals, but the schematic shows that the Clutch Start Switch grounds the coil to the starter relay to allow it to close. The clutch start Cancel switch is a complex relay that is powered by the IG1 circuit, to also ground the starter relay coil. If one of the diodes in the Clutch Start Cancel switch failed, the clutch start switch could ground the IG1 line, which would ground out the Engine (gauge, wiper, turn) fuse.

This is a long shot because grounding IG1 should (spectacularly) blow 40-amp AM1, but if you had a "soft" failure it might not do that.

Enough babbling: put your multimeter on the Gauge fuse. It should be 12v with key-on. Step on the clutch. It SHOULDN'T change.

minnie

I have a question about a 1994 pick up with 22-re engine, and automatic. I have recently replaced spark plugs, distributor, cap, wires, fuel pump, strainer and filter. Engine has about 140k on it, and it is difficult to start. Even switching it on and let it sit for 8-10 seconds to let fuel pump catch up. It just seems like it is getting no fuel, then it will start, but frustrating. I haven't done anything to the injectors but adding additive to the tank. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance..

scope103

That doesn't do anything. With key-on, the fuel pump does NOT run until you turn the key to start. Then, once the air flow through the VAF starts, the switch in the VAF closes so you can release the key and the fuel pump will keep running.

So if your STA connection to the COR is bad, the fuel pump is not starting until you crank it enough for the VAF switch to close. This is unusual, but easy to test. Jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector; if that makes the problem go away, you've located the problem (don't drive around with the jumper in. It's a safety issue.)

You might have a CSI not opening. Another forum member had a very clever suggestion; pull the CSI and put it in a baggie. Turn the key to start for only a second, then to off. Does the baggie have about 20ml of fuel in it?

minnie

Thanks for your rapid response. I apologize for my Tech incompetence, but what do the acronyms VAF, COR, Jumper FP to B+ and CSI stand for? As I looked at some of the other post I feel the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or Fuel Relay(?), or (?) could be the culprit. Just a couple months ago after replacing all of the parts mentioned, it would crank on the first turn of the key. Then it began to give the start issues.

scope103

Vane Air Flow meter, Circuit Opening Relay, Cold Start Injector, FP and B+ are two connectors (something you can jumper) in the diagnostic port (did you look for it?)

You could have searched for any of those terms on this forum and found hundreds of posts discussing them (they are a fairly basic place to start diagnosis).

Everyone has to start somewhere, and Yotatech is the best place to start, but at some point your understanding of how your truck works may be so limited that you would be better off seeking help from someone who does this for a living.