Hard brake pedal
03-08-2010, 05:11 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: North West Arkansas
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hard brake pedal
Hey guys I just finished my rebuild but had a question about brakes.This problem existed before the rebuild and still after.I let my dad borrow the 4runner and he is the type to drive with 2 feet and leaves his foot on the brake pedal.Well when I got it back the brakes wouldn't work.Checked everything and replaced master cylinder,front rotors and pads and rear drums and shoes and adjusted everything.Now I have a hard pedal but I have brakes I checked vacuum to booster and there is vacuum,bled all lines and master cylinder and still hard pedal.Is there a proportioning valve somewhere or is there a way to check booster.
03-08-2010, 06:20 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: North West Arkansas
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry about that half asleep when I got it back it had little to no brakes and the pedal was hard.I then checked fluid level and level was okay.After this I checked rear shoes and they were out of adjustment and the shoes were worn and the drums were out of range to turn so got new drums and shoes and new pads and rotors for front.At the time I flushed old fluid and installed new fluid along with new master cylinder and bled system with furthest first and so on.The pedal is still hard but I do have good stopping power .
03-08-2010, 06:52 AM
#4
Registered User
To check the booster (from FSM):
1. Operating Check
(a) Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off, and check that there is no change in the pedal reserve distance.
(b) Depress the brake pedal and start engine. If th epedal goes down slightly, operation is normal.
2. Air Tightness Check
(a) Start the engine and stop it after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down furthest the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the booster is air tight.
(b) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and stop it with the pedal depressed. If there is no change in pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for thirty seconds, the booster is air tight.
The push rod adjustment is also critical. Did you match your old MC up to your new one?
Before you start the truck, put your foot on the brake pedal. Turn the key, and when it starts and puts vacuum to the booster, your pedal should drop some with the boost. If not, then the booster isn't working.
1. Operating Check
(a) Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off, and check that there is no change in the pedal reserve distance.
(b) Depress the brake pedal and start engine. If th epedal goes down slightly, operation is normal.
2. Air Tightness Check
(a) Start the engine and stop it after one or two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. If the pedal goes down furthest the first time, but gradually rises after the second or third time, the booster is air tight.
(b) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and stop it with the pedal depressed. If there is no change in pedal reserve travel after holding the pedal for thirty seconds, the booster is air tight.
The push rod adjustment is also critical. Did you match your old MC up to your new one?
Before you start the truck, put your foot on the brake pedal. Turn the key, and when it starts and puts vacuum to the booster, your pedal should drop some with the boost. If not, then the booster isn't working.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shaun Crystal Gomban
Pre 84 Trucks
5
07-30-2015 10:13 PM
