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gear drive OR chain drive transfer case?

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Old 08-06-2008, 02:45 PM
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Question gear drive OR chain drive transfer case?

I would like to know how to find out if I have a gear drive OR chain drive transfer case....95 4runner automatic 4x4 SR5 V6...I know that the transmission is an....A340H according to the drivers side door jamb decal but I;m not sure about the T-Case...I need to order some parts for the T-Case I think the rear output shaft bearing is bad.I had a vibration and grinding that I traced to the rear of the T-Case output shaft.I droped the drive shaft (I just replaced the U-Joints thinking the vibration was coming from it) and checked the output shaft nut holding the rear bearing in and the nut was loose I could wiggle it with my finger.I unstaked the nut the best I could and retorqued to 90 foot pounds per the manual.I think the bearing is bad now so I think I need to replace it.I can turn the companion flange (without the drive shaft bolted back in) and feel a clicking and some slack is this from the bad bearing that I think I have can any one advise me as what to do on this matter?
Old 08-06-2008, 02:48 PM
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I think all V6's have chain drives, and 4 cyl. have gear drives (regardless of auto or standard).
Old 08-06-2008, 07:31 PM
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You have neither - you have the automatic transmission tcase. I guess technically, it's a chain drive, but it's a totally different tcase.
Old 08-06-2008, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 89dlx
I think all V6's have chain drives, and 4 cyl. have gear drives (regardless of auto or standard).
All V6 are indeed chain drive, however all 85-95 Automatics are hydraulic control, chain drive, and non-detachable (ie build on build off) where the manuals are detachable.

All 4cyl manual trans cases from 79-88 are gear drive. 89-95 G-series are Chain drive, 89-95 W56 are gear drive. Starting with the 1995 Tacoma, Toyota no longer offered a gear driven transfer case in anything it built.

Confused yet? Good lol.

To the OP: You have a non-detachable (ie build on/build off) Chain driven hydraulic transfer case. I am sure the parts are available from Toyota, but I can't tell you how easy it may be to fix.
Old 08-07-2008, 02:25 AM
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yes I'm confused!....I know that I have a automatic I think It's a chain drive?
according to the post the t-case is not detachable so I will have to remove the rear covers in order to get to the bearings and chain?...does any one know of some pics or web site that will show me step by step how to tear down and rebuild this t-case I have looked but only found other types that look similar but not like this one

Last edited by buckz6319; 08-07-2008 at 02:27 AM.
Old 08-07-2008, 06:14 AM
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Yes, you have a chain drive hydraulic case. Its not detachable without building it on/building it off.
Old 08-07-2008, 10:30 AM
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It's in the transmission section of the FSM

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...autotrans.html
Old 08-07-2008, 02:14 PM
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please tell me what FMS means?.....thanks
Old 08-07-2008, 02:17 PM
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FSM = Factory Service Manual
Old 08-07-2008, 02:17 PM
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FSM is factory service manual
Old 08-07-2008, 03:10 PM
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thanks guys I feel vary stupid now not knowing that......is the transfer case easy to rebuild on this model? .....does any one have info on how to do this?
Old 08-07-2008, 04:26 PM
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how can I access the FSM?...is it on this site if so what are the instructions on locating the FMS?.
thanks
Old 08-07-2008, 04:29 PM
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i got you
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-link-131168/
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~-buchanan/93fsm/

Last edited by bigt; 08-07-2008 at 04:30 PM.
Old 08-07-2008, 05:18 PM
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Hey bigt....how do I use that site and is that site where I get the factory service pages for my 4runner?
Old 08-07-2008, 05:29 PM
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wow my link expired ill find it for you
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
there u go
Old 08-07-2008, 06:01 PM
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Trust me you do not want to tackle the 340h tcase. Not in anyway. Rebuilding that is. I would only recomend touching the tcase for two reasons. 1) you are swapping to a dual case or two you have one lying around and have no other use for it. I would recommend trying to find a used 340h with low to decent mileage if possible. The chain on the tcase is something to be admired though.

Last edited by Dan.3; 08-07-2008 at 06:05 PM.
Old 08-08-2008, 02:37 AM
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well bamfct2oo4....I agree with your comments however I need to find out what part in the t-case is causing the grinding it really bothers me.I found out last week the the rear shaft pinion nut @ the companion flange had come loose and that is where a lot of the vibration and grinding coming from.I retorqued to 90ft and restaked the nut.I really dont know how long the 4runner was driven in that condition for I purchased it July 1st and replaced a LOT of rolling parts that I knew could cause the type of vibration/grinding and every part I replaced had no effect on the problem except when I had some posters mention about the rear shaft companion flange nut coming loose and was beating out the bearing there.Well I droped the rear drive shaft at the companion flange and glory! there was a nut I had saw it when I replaced my u-joints thinking the problem was there.The nut was loost just like some of the posters said but now that I have retorqued and restaked the nut i'm still getting some grinding and have some slop when I put shifter in R then N then D and still getting grinding when driving above 40ish and the rear bearing on the t-case may be bad or other parts in there any advice?

Last edited by buckz6319; 08-08-2008 at 02:39 AM.
Old 08-08-2008, 06:16 AM
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did you check this from the other thread?

Transfer case rear output shaft bearing, yes t-case requires opened (off truck prefferably) to replace. If you can't feel any significant play when you grab the shaft/flange, the bearing is fine.

Im not to sure what you mean by "slop" in the shifter. It could be you shifter linkages could be loose.

Replacing the bearing might not be to bad if you take the trans out. Working under the trans with fluid leaking on you sucks. I remember from helping a little bit to put a dual case on the back of my buddies that I would hate to take eveything and all the clutch packs out and put it back together.

Hey try this. Contact inchworm. They have the instruction to remove everything from the transfer so you can use the dualcase. So you might be able to see how bad it would be to remove the bearing.
Old 08-08-2008, 02:32 PM
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hey Bamf ct2004...I understand where u are coming from about the t-case on my 4runner....I really don't know much about that kinda stuff.I would say that the slop I feel in the R N and D is when I put the auto in thoes gears there is some slop like a delay example....I put the 4runner in R and a few seconds after I move the shifter to that position it will go into R, from R to D there is a delay then go into gear I call it maybe rotation slop i guess.The linkage is fine nothing has been touched on this 4runner I guess that's why I'm having to replace stuff because of no maintiance or low maintiance at all.My pt cruiser and camery doesn't have that kinda rolling slop they have low miles so maybe there is something wrong with the tranny?..today on the way home from work I pushed the OD button off about 23 miles and hand shifted the tranny just checking to feel any change in the grinding vibration and there was a great difference than driving with the OD ON..The gringing was bad from 1 gear with a high rpm, then I went to 2nd gear trying to keep the same rpms and the grinding was bad but when I hit 3rd gear at the same rpms the grinding was not quite as bad all with the OD OFF.Then I clicked the OD ON and the gringing vibration was not as bad so I really dont know where the grinding vibration is coming from at this point...Tranny? T-Case, maybe torque converter? who knows someone chime in and let me know what I should do next

Last edited by buckz6319; 08-08-2008 at 02:33 PM.
Old 08-08-2008, 09:48 PM
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Sounds like something could possible be going on with your trans. Have you tried dropping your trans pan? There are six little magnets on the bottom. They will collect gear dust but shouldnt have anything like metal shavings. and while you are at it just look to see how you filter is. If everything looks ok refill it with new trans fuild if you havent alread replace it with new trans fluid already. You may want to end up taking it to get looked at somewhere and maybe get quotes from a couple of different places to see what they think is wrong.


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