addicted56

I got this quote from Mr. Goat in another thread?

"If you have a 4runner you don't need to drop the tank, you have an easy access panel."

This is in reference to changing out a fuel pump.

If this is the case is this in only certain years of 4-runner and if not how do I access this in my 92 3.slow 4-runner. My rear door doesn't currently work and the back is filled with parts from the old engine I just replaced. So not sure if it is worth it but if I don't have to drop a fuel tank then right on.

Thanks..I'm going to be doing this job in the parking lot of work this afternoon.

mt_goat

Well I could be wrong since I've never owned a 4runner LOL. But others have said there is an access panel under the rear passenger seat. You may have to lift the carpet in that area to find it.

gte718p

On my 87 there are two panels under the rear seats you can take off to get to the fuel pump.

I know its a different year, but I think they are still there.

thook

Only 1st gen's have them. And, only have one at that. I don't know how an '87 could possibly have two? I just don't even the see the need for two. One right over the pump is all that is necessary. Weird. What gives?

addicted56

Bummer,

That is what I figured. Ohh well. I guess I will just drop the tank. Shouldn't be to hard.

thook

It's kind of a pain, but there are worse jobs. Drain the tank, of course, and if you have a floor jack they come in real handy.

If you find bolts frozen up, be patient. The bolts will break if you try to force them too hard. Use a good penetrant and tap them A LOT! with a ball peen hammer and socket to relieve the metal's surface tension and work the pentrant into the rust. It's well worth this effort to avoid breakage.

Same goes for fuel line fittings. Only you can't use the socket, of course. Let them soak.

A mix of ATF and 10% acetone is cheap and works real well.

mt_goat

I've heard the 3rd or 4th gen 4runners have it too, because the supercharged guys change out their fuel pumps and they have talked about the easy access panel too. Maybe its just the 2nd gen that doesn't have it.

thook

Lol....maybe. I've never looked at a 3rd or 4th up close and in person. For the life of me I can't understand why Toyota wouldn't have done it for the 2nd gen's. It's not like the body design is all that much different. If I had time, I'd sawzall that sucker and fit in a 1st gen panel. It wouldn't be hard.

mt_goat

That's a good idea, but I'm not sure a sawzall would be the best choice of cutting tools right around the fuel lines and wiring. Maybe a dremel and a cut off wheel would be better (although slower).

addicted56

Yeah,

For this instance I think it would be easier just to drop the tank. Hopefully it isn't to rusted under there. It doesn't look to bad. I have some pb blaster in the truck and I'm going to go shoot it now so after work it has had a little (not enough) time to work in and do its thing). It should be dry though as the last 5 years it has just been sitting.

I only have 5 gallons of fuel in there so I might not even bother trying to drain it. Maybe I will though. I just forgot to bring my fuel can with me though so nothing except another vehicle of mine to drain it into (I guess if my 68 dodge here at work doesn't have a fuel screen I could just suck it back out.

mt_goat

A tranny jack is real nice for lowering and raising a gas tank:



I'd seriously consider cutting an access panel. Maybe you could just cover it back over with a piece of sheet metal and self tapping screws. The carpet will hide it from view.

thook

Yeah...probably not.

eric-the-red

My 93 had an access panel under the rear passenger seat, but I think it was only for the wiring connector for the fuel pump. I only removed it once but if I remember correctly you couldn't reach the pump from there.

addicted56

I will take a look under the seat. I remember something being under there but I thought it was jack related. Who knows that was a decaded ago.

I went out at lunch to shoot some PB blaster and I did but while I was at it I just decided to take the protector off and then drop the tank. I ran out of time and it was HOT as But I have it ready to drop. The tank is sitting on a small jack and when I go out after work hopefully it will be in the shade and be ready to drop. I was surprissed how easy it was to get off. Hopefully the wireconnectors are just as easy.

Making an access whole would be extremely easy. Much easier if the tank was already down. I have a small cutt of wheel and saw. Just be very carful and then weld 4 tabs for it to rest on and screw in for replacement. Wouldn't take but 30 minutes if I was at home.

mt_goat

Don't forget to unscrew the filler neck from the body. Remove the gas cap and 3 screws hold it to the body.

addicted56

Yep,

I did that as well. On mine it actually had 4 screws, the cap, and a nut around sensor that tells you if the door is open.

Bout done with work here and going to head out and finish that darn thing and finally get it running.

addicted56

I HATE THIS TRUCK!!!

So I spent a couple hours out in the parking lot tonight. I dropped the tank and opened the access hole under the seat to get to the plug and fuel line. I disconnected it and pulled out the fuel pump.

I dropped some rust in the tank and the thing was completely covered in Varnish from the old fuel.

I took off the old fuel pump and tested it with a 12V batter I had. At first it didn't run. Then it kinda sputtered. Then nothing. Then I beat it on the tailgate and it ran. Ran like a raped ape. Then I tested the new one just to make sure I wasn't putting in a bad pump and it did fine.

I put it all back together and put it in..and Guess what Happened?? NOTHING

So I hooked up 12V power to it with all the lines connected and you can hear the pump running. You can Really hear the pump running. So for future reference to people doing this. Open the access hole over the passanger seat and just jump it with 12V's. so then I primed the sytem and found I had never tightened a banjo bolt on the fuel rail. Dumped a ton of fuel. So I losened the EGR and the upper intake and got in there and tightenting it (not before I grounded it out and hit the batter (WHEW and with all that gas there) Undid battery and finished and put back together. Now I have no fuel leaks.

So by now all fuel has evaporated and I started it..IT STARTED. It ran great for about 2 seconds and then died. Just is not getting any power back to the fuel pump.

WHY???? I don't know but I did notice this "see attached pictures" I accidentally bumped it and an red light came on and it clicked like a relay. But I could not get it to stay on. Then eventually I could not even get it to click on. It was placed on that bracket right next to the clutch and brake pedal.

Is this my problem?? It does not look stock (Made in Tiawan). In order to get out on the trail I might bypass the sytem but I'm not that type of person usually. I just want it to work correctly. A

Who out there can tell me

#1 what this is

#2 what the hell my problem is with this electrical system.

I really want to take this on the trails this weekend but day by day it is slipping away.

thook

What attached pictures? Sounds like the fuel pump relay.

abecedarian

COR relay- circuit opening relay (there isn't another FP relay)
but, it runs the stops after a few moments, so that points at the contacts in the AFM or the COR or a wiring issue.

addicted56

Last night I had problems posting. Must have written this 5 times.

Anyway I know it is not the Circuit Open Relay as I tested it and jumped it and put it in another 4-runner and his started right up.

You can hear the fuel pump no problem with the access whole open in the rear (that is when I jump it with an xternal 12V source).

The only reason it started was becuase I had primed with prior to starting. Not becuase it wasn't registering the AFM.

Here are some pictures of the black box with the red light.