sincal

ok i cant for the life of me get my fuel line to connect to the fuel rail without leaking. I bought new washers and everything and it still leaks. Went from a stream gushing out to a drip. Can someone give me some tips or tricks on how to mate up the two. Thanks

Trustyrusty

No idea, you might want to fix that though if you enjoy being amongst the living.

sincal

lol im trying but for the life of me i cant. The sad thing is i just rebuilt the whole engine with new head and cam and all even bored 40 over and cant enjoy it yet because the damn fuel is leaking. I bought new washers and still no joy. The thing has ran a total of 9 seconds..lol its killing me to drive the damn thing.

sincal

anybody at all have this problem or no?

OSU4Runner

Put some vaseline on the seals

sincal

there washers not seals. what would vaseline do? and Im not quite sure if there is one or two washers(copper)

BoostinChick

Did you check the FSM to make sure you have all the appropriate hardware? There is no rubber ring that goes on it or anything before you bolt it back on?

sincal

I did check fsm and it says nothing about a washer or anything. I know there is a crush washer that goes between the fuel line and the fuel rail. Because i when i took it off it was there and i kept the banjo bolt and the old crush washer togather. I dont know if there is suppose to be two or not. I have tried using two with no avail.

mnmontana

I had a similiar issue with the cold start injector.... just kept leaking no matter what I did. Make sure you have the RIGHT washer/seals for your application, apparently 'looks good enough' doesnt count with the pressure. I assumed the brake line seals were 'good enough', they arent...

After going to the dealership and grabbing the actual toyota washers, it worked... I ended up buying 10 of em just in case I ever deal with this again.

sincal

i went to toyota and they are the same as i purchased at my local autostore i compared but i dont know if i have them in the right spot. ex.. one on the banjo bolt and one between the line and the rail or just one between the rail and line or vise versus. I looked at fsm and there is no info that is why im trying to see if anybody else can clarify for me

krb90

Just kinda brainstorming here....assuming the bolt is not clogged restricting fuel flow....too much fuel pressure? 22re or 3vze? I know the 3.0 has a fuel dampener that is prone to leaking right at that junction. Or, if you can tell, is the fuel rail cracked maybe (since it was off, might have been banged up against something maybe)?

Maybe a dumb question, but can you tighten it more?

bipolarandproud

I had this prob with the fuel filter ( the washer are about the same maybe different sizes) there both copper anyway .. I used engine oil .. just coat both sides of the washer with a small amount .. and also make sure you don't ovet tighten it !! or it will leak still.

sincal

thanks all for the help... i got new washers AGAIN. and they are the right size this time. The local parts place sold me the wrong size from the beginning. All is well now with no leaks. Motor is running great. Seems i have a little valve chatter but with a brand new rebuild engine im not complaing. Will adjust valves accordingly later. Thanks all for staying in there with me. Im so happy its not even funny.

OSU4Runner

Vaseline on the seals helps it stick so they won't get pinched or crushed.

BoostinChick

Glad you got it figured out...I was going to say you shouldn't re-use crush washers as well.

mnmontana

If anyone else has the same issue, when you are at the dealership buying the washers, ask for a printout of the area you are working on. It will clearly show which parts go where, in what order, as well as part numbers, inc ase you need to go back... The print out is free and takes 5 seconds to ask...

just a 22re

you never said 3.0 or 22re?? just wundering thats all and im happy for you to get her all fixed and what not