Fuel Injectors not firing! What would cause this?
08-27-2016, 06:32 AM
#82
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Ok,sorry for the wait. It was the main relay.On the fuse box drivers side. Heres the thing though,Turn the key on or run position you could here it click and feel it also had power to it.,dummy me assumed it was good.Well, don,t assume. I picked up new COR (circuit opening relay), and main relay,plugged them in and instant start up ! So I put old ones back in one at a time ,turns out it was the main relay. Wow, what a relief ! Thanks again for all your responses. I hope I can help one of you with something I've already been through. By the way COR was $52. the main relay only $13.Advance auto. thanks again. ...............PS. Does anyone know where I can get a wiper control relay or module I looked around on ebay couldnt find exact one and no parts store around here has one ,Thanks.(i'll upload some pics of different relays truck etc as soon as I figure out how. Later guys.
08-27-2016, 09:20 AM
#83
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That main relay was on my mind but I thought it would be about the price of the COR. Good to know you can get one for $13. I don't like to just throw parts at a problem without testing but at that price, it would be worth a try if I ever get into a similar situation.
Post a picture and or part number for that relay you're looking for. I stripped down an 88 model a couple years ago and have most of the electrical system stored in boxes. I've probably got one but I was in a hurry and my inventory sheet only has part numbers as descriptions on a lot of the relays and switches.
Post a picture and or part number for that relay you're looking for. I stripped down an 88 model a couple years ago and have most of the electrical system stored in boxes. I've probably got one but I was in a hurry and my inventory sheet only has part numbers as descriptions on a lot of the relays and switches.
10-12-2016, 06:49 AM
#84
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Ok,sorry for the wait. It was the main relay.On the fuse box drivers side. Heres the thing though,Turn the key on or run position you could here it click and feel it also had power to it.,dummy me assumed it was good.Well, don,t assume. I picked up new COR (circuit opening relay), and main relay,plugged them in and instant start up ! So I put old ones back in one at a time ,turns out it was the main relay. Wow, what a relief ! Thanks again for all your responses. I hope I can help one of you with something I've already been through. By the way COR was $52. the main relay only $13.Advance auto. thanks again. ...............PS. Does anyone know where I can get a wiper control relay or module I looked around on ebay couldnt find exact one and no parts store around here has one ,Thanks.(i'll upload some pics of different relays truck etc as soon as I figure out how. Later guys.
10-14-2016, 03:58 PM
#85
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Hay everyone I'v been listening in and have had a lot of hassle with the same thing changed Knock Sensor and will not start I did post a thread on My EFI Relay no power to injector pig tails, I have checked a lot of the stuff I have heard you all talking about, It is a good learning place , I have 1995 v6 3.0 Automatic with a plow hookup on it but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem, It almost started ,but no go, I had fuel in the rails, injectors and Plenum from cold start injector, I did post a picture of the bottom of my EFI Relay with the info I got from Testing with Key-on , any Help would be great. THANKS
10-14-2016, 04:23 PM
#86
Hay everyone I'v been listening in and have had a lot of hassle with the same thing changed Knock Sensor and will not start I did post a thread on My EFI Relay no power to injector pig tails, I have checked a lot of the stuff I have heard you all talking about, It is a good learning place , I have 1995 v6 3.0 Automatic with a plow hookup on it but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem, It almost started ,but no go, I had fuel in the rails, injectors and Plenum from cold start injector, I did post a picture of the bottom of my EFI Relay with the info I got from Testing with Key-on , any Help would be great. THANKS
10-16-2016, 06:52 AM
#87
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Thats my thoughts also, that is why I'm so puzzled with this , no power to the injector pig tails , The ECM has power but nothing to the #10 and #20 wires on the ECM , I don't know if there is anything ( relays , fuses , etc ) or the cam positioning sensor I have been trying to find info on this stuff , but a lot of it is vague , I get myself a little confused with this stuff with the new vechiles , not like my AMX or the old 76 ford straight 6 I had , Trents3 I have check wires am going back out today and look it over again , Thanks for your input.
12-11-2016, 06:37 AM
#88
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Similar issues
You may have already done this but try jumping the two terminals on the little diagnostic connector by the fuse box that will allow the fuel pump to run all the time while you test it and will take the MAF out of the equation temporarily. Like stated above, the fuel pump will not run if the MAF isn't working correctly unless you have it jumped. Let me know if you aren't familiar with this trick and I'll elaborate.
Somebody help me out here. Doesn't the ECM need some feedback from the coil / igniter before it will send the ground signal to the injectors and allow them to open? I am aware of this part of the circuit but have never had to troubleshoot it. Do a search on it if nobody comes back on this. I'll find the pages from the FSM and walk you through it if you need me to.
One more thought. Safety First Here. You could remove your cold start injector from the plenum and have someone crank the engine over while you safely direct the fuel into a container, if any will come out. If nothing comes out, you either have no rail pressure or you are on the right track with troubleshooting the signal to the injectors. Either way, that should rock you off dead center and give you something new to consider.
Take your time and don't let it get you frustrated. These engines are really pretty easy to troubleshoot. You just have to get to know them. I'm looking for a challenge and mine's running fine. I'd be glad to help if I can.
Somebody help me out here. Doesn't the ECM need some feedback from the coil / igniter before it will send the ground signal to the injectors and allow them to open? I am aware of this part of the circuit but have never had to troubleshoot it. Do a search on it if nobody comes back on this. I'll find the pages from the FSM and walk you through it if you need me to.
One more thought. Safety First Here. You could remove your cold start injector from the plenum and have someone crank the engine over while you safely direct the fuel into a container, if any will come out. If nothing comes out, you either have no rail pressure or you are on the right track with troubleshooting the signal to the injectors. Either way, that should rock you off dead center and give you something new to consider.
Take your time and don't let it get you frustrated. These engines are really pretty easy to troubleshoot. You just have to get to know them. I'm looking for a challenge and mine's running fine. I'd be glad to help if I can.
12-11-2016, 07:52 AM
#89
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starts immediately, then falls out, DOES sound like a VAF problem. Jumpering should bypass that (and make the symptom go away).
So be sure you're jumpering correctly. In a relatively quiet place (doesn't have to be a garage, but hard to do on the side of a freeway) you should be able to hear the pump running with jumper in, key-on. If not, use your multimeter to confirm you have 12v on B+ w/key-on.
The easiest way to directly confirm fuel flow is to replace the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator with 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl into a suitable container. You should get about 1/2 liter/min with engine off, pump running. If you remove any connection on the pressure side, you MUST replace the crush washers. The fuel return is low pressure, and just uses spring clips.
So be sure you're jumpering correctly. In a relatively quiet place (doesn't have to be a garage, but hard to do on the side of a freeway) you should be able to hear the pump running with jumper in, key-on. If not, use your multimeter to confirm you have 12v on B+ w/key-on.
The easiest way to directly confirm fuel flow is to replace the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator with 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl into a suitable container. You should get about 1/2 liter/min with engine off, pump running. If you remove any connection on the pressure side, you MUST replace the crush washers. The fuel return is low pressure, and just uses spring clips.
12-11-2016, 08:07 AM
#90
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starts immediately, then falls out, DOES sound like a VAF problem. Jumpering should bypass that (and make the symptom go away).
So be sure you're jumpering correctly. In a relatively quiet place (doesn't have to be a garage, but hard to do on the side of a freeway) you should be able to hear the pump running with jumper in, key-on. If not, use your multimeter to confirm you have 12v on B+ w/key-on.
The easiest way to directly confirm fuel flow is to replace the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator with 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl into a suitable container. You should get about 1/2 liter/min with engine off, pump running. If you remove any connection on the pressure side, you MUST replace the crush washers. The fuel return is low pressure, and just uses spring clips.
So be sure you're jumpering correctly. In a relatively quiet place (doesn't have to be a garage, but hard to do on the side of a freeway) you should be able to hear the pump running with jumper in, key-on. If not, use your multimeter to confirm you have 12v on B+ w/key-on.
The easiest way to directly confirm fuel flow is to replace the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator with 6mm (1/4") clear vinyl into a suitable container. You should get about 1/2 liter/min with engine off, pump running. If you remove any connection on the pressure side, you MUST replace the crush washers. The fuel return is low pressure, and just uses spring clips.
ive also physically removed cleaned regasketed and tested the cold start inj with just a clear plastic bag ziptied on ...sprays once and turns off ... seems good ... but still plauged with it not running. thanks for any help
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