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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 04-17-2006, 09:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Fuel injector o-ring leaking

I did a search and didn't find what I was looking for I am wanting to know can a leaking injector o-ring cause the truck to stumble when giving it gas? Could it be a form of a vacuum leak? And which pins do I jump to read a CEL?
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i'm not so sure about the stumble, but the leaking o-ring will give you a host of other problems. best to spend the $5 for a new pack of o-rings and just replace them all.
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Old 04-17-2006, 11:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Terminals are TE1 and E1 to read codes.
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Old 04-17-2006, 02:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunnzz
I did a search and didn't find what I was looking for I am wanting to know can a leaking injector o-ring cause the truck to stumble when giving it gas? Could it be a form of a vacuum leak? And which pins do I jump to read a CEL?
A bad injector o-ring will manifest itself like a vacuum leak. However, if you have one bad one, the chances of you having mulitple bad or failing o-rings is high. I'd replace them all. Usually you'll get muliple miss fire codes (which can be a lot of things, but...). Spray test with brake clean can help you diagnose intake/vacuum leaks.

Remember to lubricate the new o-rings before installation. This can be done with a little spray oil. Use an oil that is safe for the rubber. This will not only make the installation easier, but will reduce the chances of twisting an o-ring or cutting it, etc. Good luck.

Last edited by wrenchmonster; 04-17-2006 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yea I am going to get a new o-ring set tommrow I replaced the ones where the injector goes into the fuel rail and that is one of the ones that leaked. Thanks for the terminal pins. And the truck is running like I got a vacuum leak I will also pick up some break clean tommrow also thanks a bunch for all your help..Forgot to mention the VAF sounds like it is popping when I try to rev the engine anybody have that happen before?
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Old 04-18-2006, 02:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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How does the shaft on the VAF look? Is it egged out in the housing?
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Old 04-18-2006, 03:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Not sure what you mean by egged out but I noticed that the flapper door is always slightly open is that normal? I assumed it was.
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Old 04-19-2006, 03:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well fixed all the injectors so no more leak and of course that did nothing I sprayed starter fluid all around the vacuum lines, intake manifold, throttle body and no change to the idle. I decided to pull the cel again and now I got what seems to be 31 - Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal) I read where this could possibly be caused from a dirty air filter is this true or does anybody know what else this could be before I push it off a cliff.
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Old 04-19-2006, 04:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Howdy. Just so you know, starter fluid is really explosive, far more so than brake clean, and can cause a fire in your motor. I'd stick with brake clean only. Safety First.

That said, what I was referring to on the VAF was the fact that the door to the VAF is fixed on a hinge. That hinge is just a shaft that runs the length of the door and resides in the housing.

I'm no 22 expert, but I've seen more than one of these "egg out". By that, I mean to say that the shaft that is fixed to the door sits in a hole that is suppose to be round, but egged shaped. This problem also happens to throttle bodies sometimes. When the shaft hole becomes out of round the plate (or door) doesn't move smoothly in the bore of the housing any longer or air comes through the egged out hole. I hope this information helps. Good luck.
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Old 04-19-2006, 05:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I actually took it apart and it has no play and I can't find a vacuum leak anywhere so I am going to get a meter and check my TPS and the VAF to see if they are working properply. I was searching around and read where a guy is having a similiar problem and he said he unplugged his tps and truck acted the same wouldn't that be a indication that it is not working? Or is that ok..?
I'm on the verge of losing it with this truck and selling it to whom ever offers me a fair amount.
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Old 04-19-2006, 05:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You may need a new AFM. Don't buy it new, because it costs around $500. Go to a Napa parts store or find them online and buy one. I think it's around $180 which is a hell of a lot better than the $500. It's very simple to install also.

If the AFM tests out ok:

Have you checked your plugs? If you're engine is "stumbling", that's a misfire for whatever reason. The first things I would check are the plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotor.
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Old 04-19-2006, 05:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Might try lubing the hinge in the AFM to be sure it is opening smoothly. If it hangs, it can cause your stumble. Mine did that before I had it lubed.

Mike in AR
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Old 04-20-2006, 12:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Plugs, cap, rotor, wires are all new I just rebuilt the engine and when I fired it up this is how it runs..I'll try to lube it to see if that does anything.
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:27 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Well stopped by a salvage yard to see if they had a AFM and they did so I grabbed it and pulled the EFI fuse and negatinve off of battery swapped it in and put it all back together cel is gone but truck still not running correctly so I pulled the spark plugs and #1 & #4 were black and #2 & #3 were clean so what does that mean is the timing off or what?
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Old 04-20-2006, 03:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Might try a compression check to see if any cylinders are low. Might also put a vacuum gauge on a consistent vacuum source and see what ya get.

Look here for more vacuum gauge info:

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub.../aa112401a.htm

Mike in AR
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Old 04-20-2006, 06:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I would hope all the cylinders have good compression since I just put the engine together I can check them also. I got a vacumm tester just not 100% on where I can get the best reading from I tried plugging it into where the PCV goes into the intake but not sure if that was good got any ideas?
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Old 04-20-2006, 06:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You'll want to use a direct port that has constant vacuum, regardless of engine speed or engine load. I'm not really familiar with the 22re, since my 92 is the 3.0.

Mike in AR
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Old 04-22-2006, 07:53 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Well yesterday after searching Yota Teach and the FSM I decided to test the VSV well when I popped the hood I was unsure which one was actually it I have a green one and a red one the red one has a little filter on it so I assumed that was it and it failed the test the manual says to do. So I tested the green one and it also failed so then I was thinking am I doing it correctly so I read each step a few more times and I am hoping that replacing them will solve my issue that is showing like a vacuum leak.
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Old 04-22-2006, 07:53 AM
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