cryptkeeper

I need to release pressure , Were is the fuse to fuel pump ? need to run engine to clean lines with out fuel pump coming on , is that the right way ?

Charchee

Please elaborate on your project. Why are your cleaning the lines and what model vehicle is this? Fuses are not always in the same place on all models.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I just crack the line and let the fuel drain into my drain pan there is not all that much !!

cryptkeeper

Its a 3.0 3rd gen, I did what Haynes Manuel said started it discantected fuel pump at tank and let it die then turned it over a few more times , sprayed it a few different days to let it soak with PB Blaster , but it still does not want to come lose from fuel lines and I don't what to break the Lines with to much force , I had my Automatic Trans checked out and they told me that the resin I'm not getting power from there point of view , may be Mass air Flow , Cat or fuel filter, It starts up good idels fine but when put under load it boges down and doesn't want to go more then like 5 to 10 mph
​​​​​​​, any ideas , thanks , . Thanks for the in put wyoming9 , and Charchee i don't know if that helps with any diagnostic . anain thanks.

cryptkeeper

its a 1995 toyota pickup 3rd gen , v6 3.0

Charchee

Have you changed the fuel filter? Those lines aren't too bad to break loose with two wrenches. It's also at a pretty low point in the circuit so it will be a pretty good place to drain it anyway. With the filter out, you could test flow from the pump if you wanted to. I guess you could blow air back to the tank but I'm not sure if that would damage the fuel pump. I do it all the time on heavy equipment but their pumps aren't in the tanks.

I know if it were me, I wouldn't do another thing until I changed the filter.

The shop mentioned the MAF. The fuel pump needs a signal from this part in order to run, however I don't see it being the problem since it does send the signal until you put a load on it. You can jump the B+ and FP terminals in your diagnostic port and tell the fuel pump to run all the time. This is only a way to rule out the MAF in this case. You don't need to continue driving it this way after you are done troubleshooting.

How long has this issue been going on? Has it gradually gotten worse or did you loose all of that power at once? Also do you have a check engine light on?

cryptkeeper

This started a while back and I got Knock Sensor code and Oxyg Sensor , I changed out the Knock Sensor Tail was bad , then rebuilt Fuel injectors and tested them , put it all backe together and it didn't Start , I had got the timing off some how , got it running and it still doesn't go well under load , starts up good now that timming is goood just No Pwer under load

Charchee

Check engine light?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You are using line wrenches to try and break the flare nuts loose??

It is not so much seized in the threads but where the lines go through the nuts

I have had some I never could get them off with out breaking the lines

Good luck

cryptkeeper

thats encouraging so after they break, i'm going tto have to get new fuel lines , yes i'm using line wrenches,

cryptkeeper

2 codes on engine light 1 for ox sensor the other Knock sensor

Charchee

Then stop bending on your fuel lines. Either one of those can give you your symptoms. You are going to have to address that knock sensor issue or you are never going to get your dynamic timing to work properly. If the ECM sees a bad knock sensor, it's not going to attempt timing adjustments without that input. Your 02 code may me something on it's own or a product of running without timing adjustments from the ECM.

For what it's worth, I've never seen a restriction in the fuel lines on one of these other than at the filter or pump pickup. I doubt you have a clogged line. I'd get those wrenches off those 28 year old lines if I were you.

cryptkeeper

new fuel pump , new Knock Sensor and pig tail for it , wrenches are just at the connector at fuel filter looks like it has never been changed , I know it hasn't in the past 13 yrs , Thats why I'm doing it now ,. the lines aren't in to bad of shape.

Charchee

10-4. Those are manageable if you were to break one.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That seemed to be the major problem the OP was unable to break the nuts loose on the fuel filter.

scope103

It's even a little worse than that. The knock sensor code means that the ECM has lost contact with the knock sensor. Could be a bad knock sensor, more likely bad wiring. When that happens, the ECM dramatically retards timing in order to save the engine. Retarded timing => runs like a dog. So that's your problem.

Charchee is probably much more talented than I am; I found replacing the filter to be a real job (on the 3VZE). https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-218962/ And my truck has always lived in low-rust California.

But more importantly, a clogged fuel line is VERY easy to test for, without wrenches. Put the fuel return line from the FPR into a suitable container, and start the engine. You should get about 1/2 liter/min out of that line. As long as ANYTHING comes out of the line you have enough flow to hold up the rail pressure.

So as Charchee says; step away from the fuel lines!

cryptkeeper

to late to step away I have the feed side off, I replaced the Knock Sensor and tail , the old tail was ˟˟˟˟ the old knock Sensor was good but changed it any way , so I will put in the New fuel filter when I get the other line off and see what happens , if that doesn't work I will check the ECM and see if , when I put Neg Batt. cable back on I will check codes again. Thanks for the input.

cryptkeeper

Well got the fuel filter off but the engine side line broke and yes looks like in was changed back in 1998 at least thats the date on filter, now I have to just get some line and connectors and do up a new line , from the Filter to the engine , the Fuel that came out was nasty brown and dirty , So the new filter may give it a hart attack because of that cleam fuel and unglogged line.

cryptkeeper

heres the filter

scope103

I don't think that [1]98 refers to the year 1998. I'd say you're looking at original equipment.

For what it's worth, the fuel filter is not a "scheduled" maintenance item. But then the schedule only goes out to 60 months. I'd say you did the right thing replacing that filter.