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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 03-29-2013, 06:35 PM   #1
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Post Front Main Seal Replacement 22RE (pics)

I have read every thread on here tagged with "oil pump" and "front main seal" and there seems to be some confusion as to whether or not the radiator, fan, belts, etc need to be removed to gain access to the front main seal.

I just replaced the main seal without removing any of those things, no problem at all.

I should've replaced the oil pump o-ring at the same time, after I finished I noticed some oozing from around the oil pump housing.

Just thought I'd squash the confusion, here is proof:

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88 Toyota Pickup 22RE
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:05 PM   #2
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Nice contortionist act The usual reason to pull that other stuff is to get a pully remover in there. Did you use one, if so what style?
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:16 PM   #3
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I didn't have to use a puller, I gave it a little tug and it just about flew off.

The crank pulley bolt was a non issue either, I used a really long breaker bar.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xylicon View Post
...The crank pulley bolt was a non issue either, I used a really long breaker bar.
The usual question is not how you got enough torque on the bolt (your answer is simple enough), but how you kept the crank from turning. Presumably, you have some sort of tool (many, many described on this forum, but I'd like to hear about yours). A tool you'll need to use again to put that bolt in, to 116 ft-lbs.
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:33 AM   #5
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The usual question is not how you got enough torque on the bolt (your answer is simple enough), but how you kept the crank from turning. Presumably, you have some sort of tool (many, many described on this forum, but I'd like to hear about yours). A tool you'll need to use again to put that bolt in, to 116 ft-lbs.
I assume his "tool" was inserting gear shifter lever into 4th gear, letting out on the clutch, and pulling the parking brake handle.
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:10 AM   #6
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I tightened the crank bolt back down with a 3/8 drive torque wrench to 116 ft lbs, no issue there. I just had to use a breaker bar to bust it loose.

To loosen the bolt I put the tranny in 4th gear and had someone stand on the brakes, worked like a charm (:
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:47 AM   #7
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Did you consider using loctite on the bolt, I know the fsm doesn't call for it but if that bolt ever comes loose while running, at best you end up with a wrecked harmonic balancer keyway, at worst a wrecked crankshaft keyway that is a very expensive repair. Been there with the crank with a diesel in my old 4runner but now Have to do this job with my 3rz so I'm considering the options etc
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:03 AM   #8
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I wouldn't use loctite on a 116 ftlb bolt. Many more people on this forum sweat getting that bolt out, than have ever reported throwing the bolt.

Of course, if you don't reinstall it to the full torque, not even loctite would help.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:06 AM   #9
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I replace front main seals in the truck on 22r's and 22re's all the time WITHOUT removing the radiator, fan, belts, etc. I can do it in under 30 min. I bought a seal puller from harbor freight. I cut out about 2" from the HF puller and welded it back together. There is just enough room from the bottom to lightly tap the handle on the puller to make the seal pop out. I also put a thin piece of wood to cover the radiator just in case I miss the puller with the hammer. I also fabbed up a little round "cup" that is the inside diameter of the seal. I use the crank bolt and the little cup to get the new seal in. I just lightly tighten the crankbolt that goes through the little cup and the seal slowly snugs down on. I do this because it is very hard to get an even seat and seal on the main seal as it goes in. There is no room to tap it in. The little cup method works flawlessly.
To torque the crankbolt I put the rig in gear apply the breaks or remove the valve cover to inhibit the crank from turning. Torque to 115 ftlbs.
Never had one problem doing this method. I have done hundreds of them. It beats tearing apart the entire front end.
I have seen many front seals that appear to be leaking that are not actually the front main seal. Rather, the oil pan gasket or the valve cover or the seal on the oil pump may be leaking and the air and vibration spin oil around the pulley and make it appear oil is leaking from the front main. It takes a little degreaser, good cleaning and a trip to the market and back to determine exactly where leaks are coming from in that area.
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http://www.yotatech.com/f197/toyospe...thread-211943/
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http://www.yotatech.com/f152/great-w...ck-sas-164531/
My Flatbed build thread
http://www.yotatech.com/f88/toyospea...-build-191787/

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Old 03-31-2013, 10:06 AM
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1982, 1994, 22r, 22re, cruiser, fj, front, installation, main, motor, pull, put, replacement, seal, tool, toyota, truck

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