YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-29-2013, 07:35 PM   #1
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
xylicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 172
Send a message via ICQ to xylicon Send a message via AIM to xylicon Send a message via MSN to xylicon
Post Front Main Seal Replacement 22RE (pics)

I have read every thread on here tagged with "oil pump" and "front main seal" and there seems to be some confusion as to whether or not the radiator, fan, belts, etc need to be removed to gain access to the front main seal.

I just replaced the main seal without removing any of those things, no problem at all.

I should've replaced the oil pump o-ring at the same time, after I finished I noticed some oozing from around the oil pump housing.

Just thought I'd squash the confusion, here is proof:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
__________________
88 Toyota Pickup 22RE
xylicon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2013, 08:05 PM   #2
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (-1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,614
LIAR

Nice contortionist act The usual reason to pull that other stuff is to get a pully remover in there. Did you use one, if so what style?
__________________
Co_94_PU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2013, 08:16 PM   #3
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
xylicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 172
Send a message via ICQ to xylicon Send a message via AIM to xylicon Send a message via MSN to xylicon
I didn't have to use a puller, I gave it a little tug and it just about flew off.

The crank pulley bolt was a non issue either, I used a really long breaker bar.
__________________
88 Toyota Pickup 22RE
xylicon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2013, 10:41 PM   #4
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 3,129
Quote:
Originally Posted by xylicon View Post
...The crank pulley bolt was a non issue either, I used a really long breaker bar.
The usual question is not how you got enough torque on the bolt (your answer is simple enough), but how you kept the crank from turning. Presumably, you have some sort of tool (many, many described on this forum, but I'd like to hear about yours). A tool you'll need to use again to put that bolt in, to 116 ft-lbs.
__________________
1994 6cyl 4wd XCab -- all stock
scope103 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 03:33 AM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Fordless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alabama
Posts: 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by scope103 View Post
The usual question is not how you got enough torque on the bolt (your answer is simple enough), but how you kept the crank from turning. Presumably, you have some sort of tool (many, many described on this forum, but I'd like to hear about yours). A tool you'll need to use again to put that bolt in, to 116 ft-lbs.
I assume his "tool" was inserting gear shifter lever into 4th gear, letting out on the clutch, and pulling the parking brake handle.
Fordless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 07:10 AM   #6
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
xylicon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 172
Send a message via ICQ to xylicon Send a message via AIM to xylicon Send a message via MSN to xylicon
I tightened the crank bolt back down with a 3/8 drive torque wrench to 116 ft lbs, no issue there. I just had to use a breaker bar to bust it loose.

To loosen the bolt I put the tranny in 4th gear and had someone stand on the brakes, worked like a charm (:
__________________
88 Toyota Pickup 22RE
xylicon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 02:47 AM   #7
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Newcastle Australia
Posts: 5
Did you consider using loctite on the bolt, I know the fsm doesn't call for it but if that bolt ever comes loose while running, at best you end up with a wrecked harmonic balancer keyway, at worst a wrecked crankshaft keyway that is a very expensive repair. Been there with the crank with a diesel in my old 4runner but now Have to do this job with my 3rz so I'm considering the options etc
hilux3rz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 09:03 AM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 3,129
I wouldn't use loctite on a 116 ftlb bolt. Many more people on this forum sweat getting that bolt out, than have ever reported throwing the bolt.

Of course, if you don't reinstall it to the full torque, not even loctite would help.
__________________
1994 6cyl 4wd XCab -- all stock
scope103 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 11:06 AM   #9
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
toyospearo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: way way nor cal
Posts: 3,098
I replace front main seals in the truck on 22r's and 22re's all the time WITHOUT removing the radiator, fan, belts, etc. I can do it in under 30 min. I bought a seal puller from harbor freight. I cut out about 2" from the HF puller and welded it back together. There is just enough room from the bottom to lightly tap the handle on the puller to make the seal pop out. I also put a thin piece of wood to cover the radiator just in case I miss the puller with the hammer. I also fabbed up a little round "cup" that is the inside diameter of the seal. I use the crank bolt and the little cup to get the new seal in. I just lightly tighten the crankbolt that goes through the little cup and the seal slowly snugs down on. I do this because it is very hard to get an even seat and seal on the main seal as it goes in. There is no room to tap it in. The little cup method works flawlessly.
To torque the crankbolt I put the rig in gear apply the breaks or remove the valve cover to inhibit the crank from turning. Torque to 115 ftlbs.
Never had one problem doing this method. I have done hundreds of them. It beats tearing apart the entire front end.
I have seen many front seals that appear to be leaking that are not actually the front main seal. Rather, the oil pan gasket or the valve cover or the seal on the oil pump may be leaking and the air and vibration spin oil around the pulley and make it appear oil is leaking from the front main. It takes a little degreaser, good cleaning and a trip to the market and back to determine exactly where leaks are coming from in that area.
__________________
94 Ext. cab 22re and a 1982 22r
Aussied, 4.88's, SAS,ed, FLATBED, OME leafs w/ 5.5" shackles, sliders,
LC Header, Marlin clutch,
32's- Swamper TSL's- RC rims, lifted, lighted, winched, LC high output alternator, etc etc..


My 82 build
http://www.yotatech.com/f197/toyospe...thread-211943/
My SAS thread
http://www.yotatech.com/f152/great-w...ck-sas-164531/
My Flatbed build thread
http://www.yotatech.com/f88/toyospea...-build-191787/

Last edited by toyospearo; 03-31-2013 at 11:26 AM.
toyospearo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2014, 10:17 AM   #10
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
jerusry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
Just wanted to add/ bring this up. So people ate saving headaches. I did same thing. Used to be a mechanic so u learn to save time.remove bottom fan shroud (clipped in shroud part.) Remove the belts. (5 mins tops total up to here). Remove the power to the distributor so your engine won't start/spark. Put an 18"-24" breaker bar on the crank bolt and position it under your passenger side frame. I rested mine on the leaf spring and it hit on the frame itself after coupe inches of travel. Was easiest way to do it. Hit the ignition for a split second you will hear a pop/knock.. *your bolt is loose*. If you have trouble just tape the bar to the frame with any tape. Now remove crank bolt and pulley by hand. Position it in between the wide fan blades openings to remove with clearance. Pop out your seal. Then put it back together. 30 minute job. Ez =) good luck everyone. This was done on 1985 4 runner 22re.
jerusry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2014, 10:47 AM   #11
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Hugh_Mann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fraser Valley, BC
Posts: 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerusry View Post
Just wanted to add/ bring this up. So people ate saving headaches. I did same thing. Used to be a mechanic so u learn to save time.remove bottom fan shroud (clipped in shroud part.) Remove the belts. (5 mins tops total up to here). Remove the power to the distributor so your engine won't start/spark. Put an 18"-24" breaker bar on the crank bolt and position it under your passenger side frame. I rested mine on the leaf spring and it hit on the frame itself after coupe inches of travel. Was easiest way to do it. Hit the ignition for a split second you will hear a pop/knock.. *your bolt is loose*. If you have trouble just tape the bar to the frame with any tape. Now remove crank bolt and pulley by hand. Position it in between the wide fan blades openings to remove with clearance. Pop out your seal. Then put it back together. 30 minute job. Ez =) good luck everyone. This was done on 1985 4 runner 22re.
I did it this way as well and used a bungee to secure the breaker bar to the frame. It was surprising how well it worked. Otherwise there's too much flex in the crank/drivetrain to apply adequate force with just a breaker, even in high gear with the parking brake applied.
__________________
Stock 1993 SR5 22RE 4Runner on 31" BFG A/Ts @ 310,000km

86-95 Pickup/4Runner TPS Allen head screw giveaway
Hugh_Mann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2014, 11:18 AM   #12
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
jerusry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 12
That is a great idea. Bungee cords ftw! =)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh_Mann View Post
I did it this way as well and used a bungee to secure the breaker bar to the frame. It was surprising how well it worked. Otherwise there's too much flex in the crank/drivetrain to apply adequate force with just a breaker, even in high gear with the parking brake applied.
jerusry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2014, 11:18 AM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
1982, 1994, 22r, 22re, cruiser, fj, front, installation, main, motor, pull, put, replacement, seal, tool, toyota, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:19 AM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.