Junkers88

Ok I'm learning slowly what a torsion (spelling?) bar suspension is and how it works, although I think it's a bit odd.

The front end on my 86 SR5 squeaks like a deamon if I put it up on a rock or if I turn sharp into a parking space. Ball joints? Also wondering if this is something that I can leave alone for the time being and just replace the parts when I do the 2" lift? Oh and how do you guys feel about Old Man Emu? I like the reviews of the 2" lift they offer for our trucks.

A couple other questions while you're here. Advice helpful.

Gears? Does it really matter what brand? New or used?

I actually spent almost all of my gear/locker/tire money on getting the drive train back up to specs so now I'm saving again and trying to decide what to do first. Tell you what, I'll type in my list and you can tell me if it's in good order for a Toyota.


1) Solid dependable drivetrain (done)
2) Bumpers and body armour (making my own)
3) 2" lift (thinking OME)
4) Gears (4.88) and lockers (Aussie)
5) Tires (33/10.50/15) if they'll fit on the factory aluminum wheels.

That's what I'm thinking in that order. Then I start doing the camping deck install and get my topper rack built. I'm looking to build something that I can take fishing/camping/exploring/etc and be able to sleep in it if I have to and also be able to get off of the trail and back on the road to work with a minimum of hiccups.

Thanks cats.

Justinvd

I think there are bushings on the control arms that could squeek?

Jay351

Are you running a sway bar? If so, check the end links. After time the bushings wear out and the end links will rub against the lower control arms. It makes a horrible squeaking noise everytime you hit a bump. I used to just spray some lithium grease on them and that would keep them quiet for about a month. I finally cut that hunk of junk outa there and put it where it belongs, in the trash!

I don't like the upgraded torsion bars OME includes in their kit, they are only needed if you are running a HEAVY front bumper with a winch. If not stick with the stockers, they will provide better ride and flex.

Get yourself a set of bj spacers and a nice set of rear leafs. Pair all that with some good shocks and you're golden.

4.88 gears and 33" tires will be perfect. Geared a little lower then stock to make up for the extra weight.

yes 33x10.50 will fit on stock alloys.

b.miller123

All of the 86-95 toyota 4wd trucks and 4runners will "squeak" with the wheels are turned all the way to either side, and the suspension cycles up or down.

This is caused the by the steering stops on the lower a-arms, there are two on each arm, so four total. They have some sort of rubber or plastic thing that covers up the metal part, they wear out and then you are making metal on metal contact (from the knuckle to the a-arm) when the suspension goes up or down with the steering cranked all the way.

I haven't really shopped around, but I don't think they would be that expensive. After my last experience with my local dealership's parts department, I won't be going back there, so I get to wait until I go down to Seattle. I tried white lithium grease but it didn't last.


it's a little hard to tell if your ball joints are worn over the internet, but if the only reason you think they are worn is because of the squeaking menitoned above, then they might not have anything wrong with them

x2 on the ball joint spacers, that seems to be the way to go (no personal experience yet), someone correct me if I am wrong, but the OME "2 inch kit" for our trucks is just torsions bars and some shocks, which really isn't a good way to get lift, if you are going to do that, just crank the bars because you aren't going to get anything better by spending money on torsion bars and shocks,

as for the gears, just get new ones, the parts aren't that expensive brand new, the install costs are going to be the same if you get used ones (if you do it yourself then used gears aren't any easier to install than new ones). There are plenty of ways for a used set of gears to be screwed up by the previous owner. I wouldn't risk it unless they are free.

Junkers88

God I hate to sound like a dumb a$$. What is a "sway bar"? Is that the big one that runs down the frame rail? I only ask because a neighbor explained that the little one going from rail to rail behind the motor (with a lot of bends) is the torsion bar and I can't see how it effects flex at all. I have to explain here that all of my off road rigs have been Scouts with the straight axle Dana 44's and I can't remember any bars that limit sway in there.

Ball Joint Spacers? So those will place the ball joints lower on the suspension? Are they safe?



Thank you in advance.

Junkers88

"Crank the bars"? This is my first Toyota pickup so forgive me if I'm an idiot.

bigt

nno there is a sway bar that goes across the front of the truck abnd bolts into a a-arm with endlinks.. it has black bushings and they can squeek
torsion bars go verticial on either side of your truck

b.miller123

you're sway bar is going to be "the one with all the bends in it" I am fairly sure that they are attached to the lower arms by links, that as stated, have busings that can also squeak when worn out

the two torsion bars (which are actually the "springs" for the front suspension, and support the weight of the truck) they hook into the back of the upper a-arms, there is one on each side. Some people "crank" these, which I guess would be the equal to re-arching leaf springs (but not permanent) for an increase in ride height ("lift"), but this is a cheap solution and most don't recommend it because it causes your ride quality to suffer because you are basically "preloading" the spring

The ball joint spacers go in between the upper a-arm and the upper ball joint. This gives in increase in ride height without preloading the spring. It is commonly regarded as a better and cheaper option when compaired to a "bracket lift" (made by procomp, superlift, rancho, trailmaster, etc)

These bracket lifts are usually $500-$1500, and they are merely brackets that lower the lower a-arm and the front differential, there are many different combinations that will come with rear blocks or leafs, some come with new front knuckles, some don't, but on forums like this they are all usually grouped together as "expensive, ineffective, and great if all you do is drive on the street and are merely looking to run larger tires", which is also my opinion

Here is a pic of a ball joint spacer:


here are a few sites for you to read up:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml
http://www.wabfab.org/home.htm
http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Products.html

all three of those guys are on this forum quite often and although I haven't ordered anything from them personally, they will come highly recommended by everyone else here, I have never heard anything bad about any of them

As for safe, there are a bunch of guys on here using them, I've never heard any horror stories or anything, other than that, talk to the guys that have them (use the search on here) and the guys that sell them, they will be able to help you out more than I will

Jay351

nmtoy

I wouldn't bother with new torsion bars unless you have a heavy front bumper and a winch.

I would do BJ spacers with the stock bars, BJ spacers allow you to relax the torsion bars for a better ride and a bit more articulation in front.

While I have not used them I hear good things about Old Man Emu, OME rear springs and shocks. New rear springs are a better way to go than shackles or AAL.

My 4runner has a similar setup to what you are after, small lift, 33x10.5 soon to be on stock SR5 alloys, 4.88 gears and an Aussie locker for the rear.

Armor is your friend offroad so also a good idea.

Lets see some pictures...

Robb