shadowbirdie

Nice light work, R&R both freewheel hubs (put the paint back on/re grease etc)
Gotta do something that's not potentially dangerous today..
Keep on Truck'in.

shadowbirdie

As mentioned somewhere, I'm replacing the steering gear as it's the leakiest messy job I have to do and I found a great one in the boneyard already uninstalled, cleaned it up and it's now fire engine red drying in the sun..
The relay rod joint at the end of the pitman arm, does it have a boot, or is it supposed to, just noticed it as I pulled the old one out, the joint on the new one is good, if all have one, it appears the boot is probably under the wreck it came out of, if need be I'll take a peek tomorrow..

Thanks J

scope103

The "ball joint" at the end of the pitman arm (and the idler arm, and the steering damper) all have boots like any ball joint. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...g/16steer0.pdf If your pitman arm is missing the boot, I'd replace it. I doubt you could install a boot without factory tooling. But it's up to you.

shadowbirdie

By your response you misunderstood (my bad) the relay rod joint, or actually the pitman arm joint that attaches to the relay rod is missing the boot, this boot when properly placed before they are joined seals the underside against the relay rod, I don't see the issue about "factory tools", it just slips on.
Anyway, Thanks for the answer, if I can't find the boot tomorrow under the source car, I have an almost new Moog arm/joint with it's boot on the old steering gear. I just wasn't bothering to pull it off the junk sector shaft, I'd have to go all of 4 blocks to NAPA to borrow a puller, just being lazy, both joints are good, one just missing it's boot, probably still laying under the 4runner I got it from, it was all unbolted, I just had to give it a single whack with a 2 pounder and I must have overlooked it, not even thread damage.. Thanks

shadowbirdie

Got my new steering gear all cleaned up, painted fire engine red, time to pull and swap the Pitman Arm,
rent the puller (all goobered up in itself) so bent up it was almost unusable, made sure they notated the receipt at O'reilly..
Going to pull, just cranking away, huge strain on it. I know about pullers,
worked on millions of dollars worth of submarine feed pump motors and bearings at the age of 17-19,
learned from the true geniuses, The Master Chief!!!
Anyhow, why won't this thing let go?? Noticed something I haven't seen since the 90's White Loctite!!
Never, ever put white loctite on anything you want to ever get back apart w/o destroying.
Lucky I still have my propane bottle after tossing the grill, had to sit for about half hour
cooking it way up over 500-600 degrees or higher with the torch, watching and praying the relay rod joint didn't start cooking,
finally with a huge snap it popped loose, had to chisel off the remainder, cleaned it up, good to go!! Don't use white loctite goobers!!!
Have a great day, camera still busted

RSR

Just do your balljoints at the same time... Release the axle at the hub before uninstalling the balljoints though.




Easiest way to do it. And they're all about due at the same time anyways...

shadowbirdie

New camera arrives today from Amazon $72 vintage Kodak 2012, so pics on the way. New Axles (thanks wyoming9) 2nd one easier than first, new shocks all around, new swaybar supports, and nice and clean underside, new paint in the engine compartment, steering going back in today, no more steering wheel free spin...first time it's on it's own 4 wheels in about 5 weeks, basically back into assembly mode as opposed to disassemble mode.. Changed the "not remove gasket" decision, when the driver side is back together, on to the passenger side, removing TB and Plenum, sending them out for a $30 ultrasonic cleaning as opposed to 10 cans carb cleaner and a brushNow we're cooking with gas

RSR

Even easier: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...tuneup-271923/

Just be prepared to replace your O2 sensor, or put an old spare in for the burn off...

shadowbirdie

The camera shows up, the steering is finished assemblywise anyway.
Won't be running for a while yet, according to Haynes (ooh ooh) I run the steering full range a few times engine off, then run it engine on under 1K rpm, same routine, thinking about hooking a drill to the pump shaft and spinning it up for a while (of course in the correct direction), or maybe I'll just wait.
Gear and pump sat inverted for couple weeks painting and other wait time, so I did add some fluid to both during assembly, never was dry enough to rust or anything. Somebody had been in there as the steering wheel was off a significant amount, reset to proper position, perfect range stop to stop (4.25 total turn range divided in half for center) not a drop of leak after fluid just pouring out of the column seal and bearing originally. So the whole driver side is now clean and new looking except I'm not going to paint the block, nice clean cast with rust tint will do. Can't even get close on cleaning underside of the plenum, .25 inch of crude just won't budge and can't reach to scrub and scrape so they're being pulled and sent out for $30, from what I see, the inside of the plenum looks like a 35 year smoker lived in there.
Also pulling the valve cover to clean and a nice bright yellow paint job.
So much for not pulling gasketed parts, but it's going so well, confidence increases, this be fun!!
Still have the transfer case shifting issue, suspecting improper internal parts positioning during a previous repair, hopeful.. Otherwise, it's only my time to get it repaired, no big deal as long as it's done before it gets too cold again. I want to keep the gears as opposed to getting a chain drive..