chzyrider

I have a '89 Toy pickup 4x4 with 5k on a remanufactured 22RE. I was in the process doing of radiator flush when I had to leave town and it was only filled with water planning to run and flush it one more time.
Then we had a sudden big freeze while I was away. After it thawed a few days later, I started it for less than a minute and checked the oil...sure enough. Aaggh, MILKY OIL!! I'm hoping this hasn't become a big expensive boat anchor.
So my question is to all the experts here; Is there any simple gasket on these engines to check first before assuming there is a crack somewhere?

myyota

If all you had in the engine was water when the freeze came through, then its possible that either the head or the block cracked.

PlugItIn

cracked head or block most likely...why would you leave just water in a basically new engine?

chzyrider

I know it's possible, probable is what I hoping it wasn't.

chzyrider

Like I said... I had to leave town. Nobody knew it was going to get that cold before I left.

chzyrider

Now, would there be some pressure test procedure to determine which one may be cracked shy of tearing it down?

PlugItIn

pressurize the coolant system...

chzyrider

Please elaborate... assuming this would produce an air hissing noise where a leak is, where do I listen from?

I don't hear that good anymore and a small hiss may be missed. Figuring there are attachment kits available for this, how much pressure do I apply?

PlugItIn

http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolant_leaks.htm

Didnt read through it all...but should answer your questions...

chzyrider

Thanks, I'll look at that.

chzyrider

Not much help there on that page. I appreciate the effort though.

stormin94

Would the freeze plugs get water in the oil, or would they just kill the compression.

PlugItIn

A special tool called a pressure tester can also be used to check your cooling system. The tool is nothing more than a little hand pump with a combination vacuum-pressure gauge and a fitting that is attached to the radiator filler neck. To check for leaks, attach the tool to the radiator and pressurize the radiator to the pressure rating on the radiator cap. For example, if you have a radiator cap that says 12 pounds, you pressurize the radiator to 12 lbs. and wait to see what happens. If there are no leaks, the system should hold pressure for 10 to 15 minutes. If it does not hold pressure, the system is leaking. If you cannot see any visible leaks on the outside, it means the leak is inside (bad head gasket or cracked head or block).

its all in there man...

chzyrider

Found this in another post, reply by Abecedarian - ""There is a coolant passage near the intake runner to #3 cylinder (and #2 as well) which passes into the intake manifold and out to the heater core. If the intake gasket there is compromised, coolant can enter the #3 cylinder (and possibly #2)."" While I haven't gone back out to check yet (still a bit flusterated), but I don't believe it's flooding a cylinder in my case as the oil poured out the pan like a soupy milkshake, but what remaining coolant (I added earlier) drained out of the radiator fine with no apparent contamination.

By the way... I had recently replaced the timing chain and did the job without removing the head, I suspect the broken guides were caused by starting it with low oil pressure from older pump that loses it's prime after sitting for over a month and possible bad tensioner. Now I ground the coil and crank it a few short bursts until the oil light goes out, then reconnect the coil to start it with full pressure after sitting for extended periods.

Anyway, in researching threads here, I found one with a picture which now of course I can't find again... but it showed the water passage in the block that went through the timing cover to/from the water pump. Anyone happen to know of one to add here?

So.... I am now wondering (and hoping for the best) if the gasket here around this passage, if not fully sealed, may have been what allowed the water to drain directly into the pan inside the timing cover. But the question would be; Could this happen? And could it be due to or related to the freeze as a weak point to push through and create a path for it to drain when thawed?
Does this sound like a reasonable theory to check first before removing the head for inspection??

scarlton

you said the timing guides were broke...did you check the timing cover for damage from the timing chain rubbing against it? that can cause a water leak right behind the water pump.

sb5walker

Hate to add any more negative, but just to point out that water by itself, while really useful to flush a cooling loop, should never be left in the system for any length of time. Even overnight is too long. Reason is that a lot of corrosion can happen very quickly with just water; in fact, corrosion happens even with water/antifreeze mixtures where the antifreeze is less than 50%. Under 45% antifreeze, corrosion increases a lot.

Also, when running a motor to circulate distilled water (if flushing that way), don't drive the vehicle and don't run it at operating temp for more than a few minutes since the water doesn't have the anti-boilover protection provided by the antifreeze.

thedanned

I wouldnt think they would do either. You would just lose all your coolant.

thedanned

You would be blowing a BUNCH of steam out your tailpipe if you were sucking water into the combustion chamber (or smoke if you had coolant in there). I think the front cover is a reasonable place to start looking for a leak. Get you a pressure tester and listen for a leak in front (bubbling or water rushing sound). Is there a way to look inside the front cover on a 22r without taking the front cover off? Like an inspection plug or something?

broncbob

How bad is the oil?? Are we talking a ton of water in there??

Check your plugs, if you have a leaking HG, the plug that is in the leaking hole will be clean, as in steam cleaned!

chzyrider

Well after letting this project sit for a while with other priorities.. I finally dug into it again. NO steam-cleaned cylinders or spark plugs to indicate it was draining into one. All still black & crusty. Absolutely NO deformation of the freeze plugs to indicate they were being pushed on by the ice. And NO visible indication of a trail or path where the head gasket may have allowed water to squeeze over into oil passage.

In looking at the block, shy of taking to a machine shop for a magnetic powder test, I see no signs of any milky residue in any corners or areas around the underside of the waterjacket/cylinders that may have cracked and I see no indication of damage to the head.

I believe my original suspicion was correct in that it may have been the timing cover's fresh gasket covered in goop around the block's water passage (above the chain tensioner) that gave way under the "freezing" pressure thus allowing the water/coolant to pee directly down into the oil pan when thawed.

Anywho... ordering new gasket set today and installing a replacement timing cover in case old one has warped and not seating flat against block in that spot. I will update this to let ya'll know if that truly was the problem.

Keeping fingers crossed, but it's hard to grab the wrench that way.... ;-)