Dunnder

I am getting ready to start restoring the frame on my 87 p/u... its got a good amount of flaking surface rust, but still pretty solid...

My plan is lift the box and cab a few inches (not totally remove) and wire brush as much as I can, then paint the frame with some Zero Rust...

Here are the questions...

First... The holes throughout the frame have (of course) caused it to rust on the inside as well as outside, and there is a good centimeter of sand/crap sitting in the frame... can I blast that crap out with a pressure washer and seal/weld all the holes to prevent this from happening again?

Do I need to do any additional prep to the frame other than brushing before applying Zero Rust?

Can I apply Zero Rust to the gas tank, rear end, control arms and other exposed components?

Can I get minimal amounts (drops/overspray) of Zero Rust on stuff like brake/fuel lines, without hurting them?

Im really new at this, just getting into all the fun mods I can do with this truck. Ive had it for 8 years, completely rebuild the tranny and motor, and the body is all new too with a custom galv. steel box, and now im into learning (and doing) all this other stuff... frame seems like a good place to start... Next im doing a header and exhaust.

Thanks for any advice!

Cyberman

Protecting the inside of the frame might be a good place to start, since it appears that the frames usually rust from the inside out. There are places that sell a special applicator with a long tube to run through the inside of the frame to coat it. As for getting the Zero Rust on lines and stuff, it shouldn't hurt. I'd try to stay away from fasteners that you may want to remove though. If Zero Rust is anything like POR-15, it'll harden like a rock.

BAZ

I've heard that putting oil ion your frame is a good idea to prevent rust.

tulsa_97SR5

If you have any way to get the body all the way off the frame I highly recommend it. I lifted the front with 4x4 blocks, then the rear with the same and it's just not enough clearance to really get at it.

InternetRoadkill

Don't weld the holes shut.

Pressure wash the frame using a wand in all the holes and allow it to dry. Then treat the inside with a penetrating rust preventative using a flexible undercoating wand. Wire brushing or media blasting the frame before treating and painting would be a good idea to remove all the rust scale.

Dunnder

You guys are awesome.. thanks a lot for the tips.. i will hold off on sealing the holes, and I will track down a wand to apply some zero rust to the inside of the frame... I took a good look at the frame and box last night, looks really easy to remove the box, and the back end is where the frame is the worst, so i will yank the box one of these upcoming weekends and do a complete/proper job at the back... the front of the frame is barely rusted at all, and i really dont want to mess around with removing the cab, so i will probably deal with the front end that way.
Thanks again. Big help.

bigt

yeah def do up some oil in your frame bro!

good stuff!
i do it all underneath every year

we got salt here for like 6 months..
that and washing the runners once a week in the winter

Dunnder

Well Im all done, finally got the truck back on the road a couple weeks ago. I removed the box and rear bumper, spent the first few weeks with the grinder and wire wheel. Did the entire frame up to the control arms, rear drive shaft and rear axle. Completely removed the rusted out spare holder. Scraped and flushed (alternated air/water) the inside of the frame as good as I could, and finally painted everything with Zero Rust. Sprayed Amsoil Metal Protectant (oil with wax-like finish) inside the frame. Replaced lots of broken bolts with stainless (why dont eh manufacturers do that from the start???)The zero rust turned out great, gave a really nice finish. Before getting her back on the road, I replaced the rear springs with 2" Stage 2 springs from NWOR (they are super stiff, fyi) and I replaced the TB's with Sway-A-Way (and ProComp shocks) from NSOR (who gave me free shipping and were awesome to deal with!) The new TB's are also really stiff, even tho I only cranked a 1" lift out of them. Finally, after reinsuring it, I went to the local muffler shop and had my Thorley tri-y header installed, (also from NSOR) along with new magnaflow muffler and 2.25 pipe. Well thats about it, just wanted to finish this thread with the end result; the truck is looking pretty sharp IMO and Im really happy with her. Next on the to do list, (next year) is either some more engine mods (MSD ignition, reroute intake, camshaft) or upgrade front diff, or replace fuel tank and lines. I guess whichever breaks first will decide which one gets attention!

Matt16

Can you actually spray this zero rust? There's another thread about rust prevention inside the frame rail here.