A-Frame the rear shocks ?'s
#1
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A-Frame the rear shocks ?'s
How do u A-Frame your rear shocks?? And what r the pros and cons of it?? Seems like a good mod i would like to do later on after i get my longer shocks.
Thanx
Thanx
#2
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Well.
You have to start with new shock mounts on both the axle and frame..
And pros: Better flex (pretty sure, atleast, dunno)
Cons: More body roll, stiffer ride (shocks fighting pressure to move inward when axle moves up and down parallel to the ground)
you'll also need to weld in a new crossmember, for the shocks to mount to
You have to start with new shock mounts on both the axle and frame..
And pros: Better flex (pretty sure, atleast, dunno)
Cons: More body roll, stiffer ride (shocks fighting pressure to move inward when axle moves up and down parallel to the ground)
you'll also need to weld in a new crossmember, for the shocks to mount to
#3
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Simple geometry.
IF a shock is directly up and down, for every 2 inches of axle travel, you will use 2 inches of shock travel.
IF you pitch it inward, you can install longer shock bodies (longer stroke) yet due to the angle for every 2 inches of axle travel, you will use less than 2 inches of shock stroke. Therefore if you improve your axle travel, this will allow you to fit shockes capable of handling the stroke.
However this adds leverage to the dampening affect, therefore you need to use a stiffer shock to equal a standard shock that is mounted directly up and down (if you want to match the dampening affect that is)
Some do state that it fights body roll however that is very minimal if measurable at all.
IF you have not increased the axle movement then dont waste your time, energy and money on mounting the top of your shocks inboard.
IF a shock is directly up and down, for every 2 inches of axle travel, you will use 2 inches of shock travel.
IF you pitch it inward, you can install longer shock bodies (longer stroke) yet due to the angle for every 2 inches of axle travel, you will use less than 2 inches of shock stroke. Therefore if you improve your axle travel, this will allow you to fit shockes capable of handling the stroke.
However this adds leverage to the dampening affect, therefore you need to use a stiffer shock to equal a standard shock that is mounted directly up and down (if you want to match the dampening affect that is)
Some do state that it fights body roll however that is very minimal if measurable at all.
IF you have not increased the axle movement then dont waste your time, energy and money on mounting the top of your shocks inboard.
#4
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Check out 4crawlers write-up, it should answer most of your questions
www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml
www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml
#5
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Unless your shocks are limiting your suspension travel, don't move them in. If you do need longer shocks do the math and move them in the least amount possible.
#6
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Only issue I see that I don't like is it looks like it somewhat interferes with the e-brake cable and 1 or both brake lines will need to be re-bent.
But.... I wouldn't do this on a crossmemeber that is wielding signs of rust and rot like mine. lol.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 04-01-2011 at 08:41 AM.
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