First 22RE rebuild
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
First 22RE rebuild
Hey all,
I just about finished my first engine rebuild ever by my self. The long block is almost done anyway. A product called moly-engine assembly greese just came to my attention.
I've got a very heavy coat of 80/90 that I used when putting together the rod and crank bearings and the pistons.
I've got the crank in, head on, and timing gear and chain attached. Just how important is this assembly greese? Am I good with the 80/90? I want to think yes because when I got the head back from the machine shop it was dry. So if I can lube up the cam after it's installed without greese or any lube then I should be fine with a well coated lower end with the 80/90???? Of course I'll use engine break in oil on first start up.
Brass Tacks: Do I need to take the whole bottom end apart and reassemble using moly greese or can I leave it? Thanks.
I just about finished my first engine rebuild ever by my self. The long block is almost done anyway. A product called moly-engine assembly greese just came to my attention.
I've got a very heavy coat of 80/90 that I used when putting together the rod and crank bearings and the pistons.
I've got the crank in, head on, and timing gear and chain attached. Just how important is this assembly greese? Am I good with the 80/90? I want to think yes because when I got the head back from the machine shop it was dry. So if I can lube up the cam after it's installed without greese or any lube then I should be fine with a well coated lower end with the 80/90???? Of course I'll use engine break in oil on first start up.
Brass Tacks: Do I need to take the whole bottom end apart and reassemble using moly greese or can I leave it? Thanks.
#2
Registered User
Part of me says yes but let's see what others say. The 80/90 is diff oil?
Either way when its ready to fire up take the plugs out and spin the motor up until theirs oil pressure. Then plugs back in and let her run.
Either way when its ready to fire up take the plugs out and spin the motor up until theirs oil pressure. Then plugs back in and let her run.
#3
you want oil flowing across the bearings, heavy grease will be more difficult to flush out of there... right before you start it for the first time, you could pull the valve cover, to do the initial fill with oil.
with the valve cover off, you flood everything up top; across the valve train, and pour it down the timing chain... you'll see that the cam lobes get dipped in oil every time that they rotate, where the oil pools in the head.
i'd pump for pressure like so cal says, with the fuel pump disconnected, then put the plugs in to fire it off.
with the valve cover off, you flood everything up top; across the valve train, and pour it down the timing chain... you'll see that the cam lobes get dipped in oil every time that they rotate, where the oil pools in the head.
i'd pump for pressure like so cal says, with the fuel pump disconnected, then put the plugs in to fire it off.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks, that's what I was figuring. I'm sure the moly-greese is "best" but we've been building engines with oil and no synthetics for years and years. 80/90 is gear oil and thick and sticky. I actually ran it in my first yota for about a year before I was able to get bottom end rebuilt. Leaked less. It should be keep everything lubed up for the first start until it starts pumping. And I'll make sure to you break in oil for the first oil 1000 miles.
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