ozziesironmanoffroad

ok so im getting my engine rebuilt after 300,000 miles, sure gave me a good run. i dunno what to get to put in it other than the master rebuild kit, so give me some ideas. here are my thoughts

having the block bored .020 over
oversized pistons and valves
engine builder .368 cam
RV head (or should i stick to the stock head if its okay?)
header

am i missing anything? id like to have a reliable 22RE with more power than usual. i dont want to spend thousands on a rebuild, just one with more than average "OOMPH". any ideas?

abecedarian

do you mean '268' cam?
have you talked to ted about it?

and personally, I wouldn't overbore the block if I didn't have to.

scuba

do .010 over.
Should be nice, And doesnt the rv head already have a cam...
Your not going to have a v6 or anything...but you should be able to pull the hills in socal a bit better !!

chrisbnaz

With 300k miles on the block, I'm sure just honing it won't be enough. Try to go only .010 if you can though, depends on the condition of the cylinders.

ozziesironmanoffroad

okay, will do. and no i havent talked to ted, im just throwin ideas around for the time being.

AZ89LONGBED

iTrader: (3)

I'm running a similar setup to what you mentioned, per my sig. line, although I am using the OEM airbox, if that matters. It's dusty here in AZ. Ted sent me to the 268 cam instead of the 261 because of my setup & what I said my truck had on it.

After I get my new balanced injectors installed tomorrow I can tell you if that makes any difference...

Call EB, those guys will get you setup.

I have had good luck with the LC header & exhaust, they went on easily & the finish is awesome. The LC exhaust kit comes with a lot of parts, 02 sensor block offs (for racing), and enough pipe to get rid of your cat, if you want to.

All of my EFI tuning has been stock, replaced some vacuum lines, cleaned TB, & stock AFM setting.

Don't forget rocker arms & such. I got a crazy quote from the dealer for a rocker arm assembly, shop around on that part.

Oh yeah, have plenty of beverages nearby.

ozziesironmanoffroad

ha, im not rebuilding it myself. a buddy of mine just happens to be runnign a shop, and told me hed rebuild it for 1400, with a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty. that aint bad at all, huh?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You can get the best parts and do everything right but if the machine shop does not do their job properly all that other stuff won't matter.

Just buy a new head and redo the block. Use OEM gaskets and sealants.

ozziesironmanoffroad

thats the thing, wabbit. i would do it myself, but i dont have space for it, i dont have the garage to do it, (my parents wont let me use theirs cuz they converted it into a 2nd living room/bar.) or trust me i would do it myself

ozziesironmanoffroad

okay, so heres an update. a buddy of mine put a new HG on and took the head to a machine shop for me. the HG is now replaced, and its no longer blowing steam. i took it out a little bit this morning, and she was running beautifully. then it starts its chugging again. almost like a sticking needle valve on a carburated vehicle, except i have EFI. though today i heard the engine roar up and down for the first time with my foot FLOORING the pedal. it was dropping off, then roaring up, then dropping off. anyone got ne ideas? if no one does, im gonna give scuba a call and PRAY he has the day off... LOL.

abecedarian

check for vacuum leaks... major vacuum leaks.

abecedarian

or loose duct from the TB to the AFM

ozziesironmanoffroad

then wouldnt it idle weird if there was a leak between the TB to the AFM? i went through that once, hence why i stopped using the supra AFM, i cant fab stuff very well. the supra afm made the tube from the TB to the AFM so low it was rubbing on the pulley, and wore a hole in it, and it wouldnt idle for anything. but when i got on it, it purred. wouldnt it be doing that if there was a hole in there? though you know, it seems to be flooding... i noticed it runs noticably better when the cold start injector is plugged in, but it will still jerk and chug. and it rarely does it when it is dead cold. so im thinking maybe the cold start timing switch.... am i thinking correctly... what i dont get though is why the cold start injector is unplugged, and its STILL dumping fuel in... i dont get that... am i thinking about right? or way off?

ozziesironmanoffroad

okay, just pulled my plugs. check this out... i think i found my problem.



i think they wore out cuz i forgot to gap em when i put em in... LOL... newbie mistake.

gilby4runner

spend the money and go with NGK's or Denso's. My pathfinder nor my 86 toyota would run right with out them. Get them, gap them and forget about it. Hope that solves your problems, good luck

ozziesironmanoffroad

the gap is what... 35?

ozziesironmanoffroad

okay, so i gapped the new NGK plugs at .034. its running better, but still misfiring. i confirmed its a misfire by unplugging cylinder 3 spark plug wire, note didnt change. now heres the catch. theres a blue plug by the #3 injector power plug. if i trace the wire back and knock it with a long extension, it smooths out and idles PERFECT. then if i tap it again further along the wire, it starts misfiring again. i got some video from my phone, lets see if i can figure out how to convert it so i can put it on here. i also timed it while it was running on all 4 cylinders by jumping the diagnostic ports (was giving me a TPS code because i unplugged it earlier to check the TPS, havent cleared it yet). i timed it to 5 BTDC. sounds BEAUTIFUL until it starts misfiring. back to the blue plug, WTF is that plug??? in one of the pics without the flashlight in it, the plug im talkin bout is the one chillin in the light.
here are some pics and video.

heres the video... :


here are the pics

ozziesironmanoffroad

maybe i should start a new diagnostic thread...huh? good idea?

abecedarian

believe that's the coolant temp sender for the dash gauge.

ozziesironmanoffroad

so why would that be causing my engine to misfire on cylinder 3??? im beyond mystified...