Markarino

Hello there fellow yotatech members. Now before you go on telling me there are plenty of idle threats to read them over and use the search engine just please stop. I've spent hours upon hours reads threads about fixing idle and i've done everything that i've been told. I'm currently running a 3VZE with a 1000-1200 rpm idle when warm. I just replaced my throttle body assembly today which decreased it from the original 1500 rpms. Upon start up the truck will actually idle perfectly at 800 when warm, drive around for abit and it'll slowly bring itself up to 1000 rpms, take her on the highway and you'll be back at 1200 which will slowly go back to 1000. It's as if the motor decides to idle higher once i get moving. I've checked the timing, tightened the idle screw, and properly cleaned the throttle body of gunk completely. I feel in the past month of reading posts i've gotten pretty far from my original high surging idle to this 1100-1200. What else can be done? There has to be something to bring my truck to the 800 even 900 rpms completely. There must be someone on this forum who has gotten rid of there high idle. Lets hear some thoughts and perhaps this post can help those in the future.

4runnerJC

I wish I knew too, I'm having the same issue, along with it taking awhile to warm up.

ksti

You first said you replaced the throttle body and then you said you cleaned it.
What else have you done to try and solve the issue?

Markarino

I cleaned my original throttle body then and purchased a new one for replacing. Everything related to ignition was replaced, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, vacuum hoses were checked and dash pot.

ksti

What about timing, TPS, VAFM,

Markarino

Timing has been adjusted accordingly as we'll as the TPS, I've messed around with the fuel/air screw on the vafm for a slighly better idle.

ksti

Is this what your talking about regarding fuel/air screw?.

ksti

Or do you mean this idle/air screw?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Not sure off the top of my head if the IACV is cast with or an addon to the throttle body.

Disconnect and plug the power steering and brake vac lines.

Put match marks onthe distributor, and idle air screw. Make sure the Idle air screw o ring is in, and the distributor lock/adjustment bolt is tight.

Could be heat build up related I guess. Test the VAFM and TPS both cold and screaming hot.
That sounds like heat build up, which alters the resistance in the TPS AFM and related wires. Aside from damaged wires or sensors, make sure the radiator isn't bend and partially plugged.

And of course there is the obvious. check the throttle springs pedal and TB, cables not sticking.

Test it idling with the radiator partially blocked off. Of course monitor the temps closely. To find out if it's heat or vibration related.

You really need to list everything you've done and tested. Even listing the resitances readings is helpfull.

Markarino

None of those actually, it's a screw that is caped on the vafm which needs to be drilled open in order to adjust, not to get confused with the cog inside the vafm. it can be seen on the first image you provided not everybody knows about it.

Markarino

IACV is actually attached to the throttle body unlike the 22RE which it is separate. I have tested the IACV and it is indeed doing its job. I'll disconnect and reconnect the power steering and brake vac lines but i don't see what that could do. Since were on the conversation of power steering i do have a leak but i'm pretty sure that won't affect my idle if somebody can correct me.
I'm going to check the o ring for the idle screw today and i've already tightened the distributor. Now when talking about the rad i don't know if anything is wrong with it and i'm not quite sure how to check it. And there isn;t a sticky throttle, i've already checked that.

Markarino

To give an update to those with similar problems i've just changed the o-ring on the idle screw and found no difference at all. My next step is to take the throttle off yet again, triple check the tps and replace the coolant hoses that run into the IACV just incase they have any kinks. Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The vacuum activated brake booster, is basicly a big rubber diaphram it's an easy to overlook source for a vacuum leak. The power steering idle up is also a place for air to leak around the throttle body.

Maybe clean and lube the vane pivots in the AFM it could be sticking? Not sure if the pair system can foul this up or if it's even present on the v6 A clear sign of a malfunction in that system is a dirty throttle plate.

Good luck and stick with it everything you diagnose narrows the possible causes.

JohnnyCanuck

How's your 02 sensor? My idle was surging 200-300 rpm difference after it's warmed up but it didn't really bother me. I changed my o-ring on the air idle screw and it got quite a bit better; maybe surged 100 rpm. I bought a new 02 sensor as the PO told me it was never changed. I went to change it and twisted the rusty stud/nut off one side. Either a coincidence or whatever but the idle has smoothed right out. We've had -40 weather all this week and it has run and idled better than it has before, I'm thinking because it's getting a bit of fugitive air past the broken stud on the bad 02 sensor and it's helping..but I won't be sure until I fix my broken stud problem and get the new sensor in.

Xeo

Hows your throttle cable? May sound absurd but my 4runner would idle at 800 when warm and stuff but then slowly rise up to 1000 or 1200 rpm i couldnt figure it out until i pulled the accelerator pedal up with my foot lol! Once i did that it would idle back at 800 lubed up the cable and no problems since. Just thought id share that with you guys

Markarino

Alright guys I'm here to bring you an update of my situation. While messing around with the TPS I discovered it was broken and needed replacing. Replaced that and calibrated it properly. Still idling fairly high. Took the throttle body off again to check the coolant passage again and all seemed well. So my next assumption was a stuck valve that wasn't closing. Ordered up another throttle body and sure enough it fixed the idle completely. After going threw two throttle bodies I finally found one that worked properly. So in conclusion don't assume that just cleaning the coolant passage in the throttle body is the problem, there are chances the valve may not be working properly and need replacing. Thanks for the posts and good luck to whoever runs into the same issue.