crankyster_01

Im having trouble finding the blower resistor I have removed the switch cleaned it and all, it checks out with the multimeter, I only have high and off. Some help locating the darn thing would be great its an 88 extra cab w/ the 3.0.

Other issue I have, the back light in the dash is not working, I found that the green bulbs are no good, so I removed another bulb and tryed it still nothing. Im not getting any power to the light control reostat and looking at all the schmatics I have cant quite figure where that thing is suppose to get power from. I dont really have a good schmatic to look at all i have is a chiltons and one somebody emailed me, that I cannot make much sense of, any help would be apperciated.
Thinking more about the dash light the reostat would be getting power from the combination meter, so is my meter no good or where does the power come from to turn the lights on, this thing is making me crazy.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Blower switch contains the blower resistors.

The reostat is connected to ground. The lights are powered thru the "tail" fuse and that fuse is supplied from the tail relay the relay is controlled by the stalk on the steering column pin11(Red-Blue) is input from the relay and pin10(White-Black) is ground.

crankyster_01

I have power to the combometer threw the tail light relay but thats it I try to check the power on the back of the meter where the lights are plugged in and dont have any power there, I feel there should be power there to turn the lights on, I dont know if you can even check it there. I feel the meter might be bad. Also I dont have power to the light behind the a/c controls it a green bulb, I have continuity on the power wire from the meter but no power.

I suppose it seems all my issues are coming from the meter not sending power threw it, but cant prove it.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Plug B pin 5 green wire, should have switched power controlled by the light switch. But you said you have power out of the relay and continuity from the relay to the cluster, thats not possible to not have power at the cluster if those two conditions are met, you maybe did something wrong. Can only say check it again, and give "play by play" response to what you did and the results you got.

Should have continuity from B5 to B6, if not it's maybe a blown bulb but you'll need to work your way thru the circuit since I don't know if they're series or parallel.

xtremewlr

I have a similar issue with my daughters 91 truck. Blower only works in 2 positions, low and high. I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing with another off ebay but maybe it's repairable?

Some more searching and I just found this thread - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-227171/

The OP's truck is a 92 so should be about the same as my daughter's 91.

brianh699

My 89's blower motor resistor is on the motor housing on firewall, I thought they were all this way to cool the coils?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Every Blower Motor resistor I ever saw is in the duct so the air moving keeps it cool.

If you look at your blower motor it will be to the left you might need to pull the glove box and the lower part of the dash to have room to work I have gone so far as to pull out the seat.

Go new with this as they get real fragile from the thermal cycling and most will break when trying to change.

When checking your light circuit are you getting a good ground ??

Do you have any corrosion on the connections your touching your meter leads to ??

Sometimes you are unable to see it by looking .

Do you have the manual or Auto trans it makes a difference as to the color of the wire coming to the rheostat .auto is a green wire ** manual is red black.

It is a parallel circuit unless all the blubs are blown it should work

Also if the rheostat is open you will not get the complete circuit and will not have any dash lights. As the rheostat controls the voltage going to ground this is what dims the lights more voltage brighter lights.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Diagram
http://0.tqn.com/d/autorepair/1/0/H/K/41748830.gif
And a photo
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51307078


The light negative are always R-B(Red-black) according to my book, just in the case of ECT there is the Green power wire also since it has a different style reostat.

Reostat inspections are on the last page HERE (BE-42)

The plug is a little different on the late 80's version, 2 is power/Tail fuse(green wire), 4 is body ground(White-black), 3 is from dimmable lights(Red-Black)

crankyster_01

I do have power at pin 5 of plug b, I knew the bulbs were bad so swapped them around and still nothing I picked up some new bulbs today gonna try them out when i get home, as for continuity from 5 to 6 not sure i will check that as well.

crankyster_01

I found the answers this weekend, I started by picking up some new bulbs for the dash. I removed the dash board and starting checking the circuit board on the back of it and found where all the issues were I found 3 places where the board was messed up, I sodered some wire back on there and there it is all my interior light working now.

On to the crazyness I picked up a resistor for the blower speeds, and I cannot locate where that thing goes into the blower duct, I found the wire connector but it wasnt hooked to anything its just hanging there so I hooked my resistor to it and now I got all my speeds, Does anybody have any good pics or can take me a couple pics to help me find where that resistor is located I have the dash completly apart on both sides to fix all the problems and i just cant find it.

brianh699

This is from my 89 4runner on the firewall by passenger side kick panel

Hugh_Mann

When I bought my 91 Pickup the previous owner had removed the broken blower resistor so all I saw was the dangling connector as well. There's a small rectangular hole with two screw holes on the firewall where the coils fit through. I didn't see it at first either but it's easy to miss. I managed to baby one out of a pickup at a local wrecker. The old ones are quite fragile.

crankyster_01

Just wanted to thank everybody for the help I have now got all the issues worked out, all thats left is putting it back together and a 2 in body lift for the time being.