Failed smog!.. help.. high NOx 15mph test
11-08-2011, 04:38 PM
#22
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Hey Ceelint - did you pass? I passed with flying colors this last (third) time. I, like you, was hung up on the high NO measurement at 15MPH (I was at 3050 PPM my second test!!).
What I had done between my first (failed) and second (failed only at 15 MPH) tests was:
New plugs. new wires, new O2 sensor, did timing, new Catalytic converter
What I DIDN'T do (but the smog tech suggested) was look at/clean the EGR.
When I failed the second time (with 3050 PPM NO levels) I took off my EGR and EGR vacuum modulator. Using the FSM, I cleaned out the EGR with carb cleaner, and took apart and cleaned the vacuum modulator filter with compressed air (as suggested by FSM). I put it back together with a new EGR gasket ($3 at the parts store - only a gasket on the intake manifold side, not the head side), and connected the hoses and BAM! it worked great. NOW...I'll admit it now because it's funny and I passed, but when I was retracing my vacuum hoses I noticed that I had crossed up the hoses between the vacuum modulator and the BVSV incorrectly, so the whole system was likely not working at all. I put things back in order, per the FSM, which is likely the REAL reason I passed this third time.
Hope that helps you pass, and anyone else in the same boat
Oh, and after I installed the new wires, I have a "ticking" noise I can hear that goes up/down with the RPMs. Seems to be on the drivers side. I checked plug/boot connections and at the dizzy and coil but can't find arcing or anything else causing it. It was not there before the plugs/wires/O2 sensor, but is now. ANY IDEAS what it could be??
What I had done between my first (failed) and second (failed only at 15 MPH) tests was:
New plugs. new wires, new O2 sensor, did timing, new Catalytic converter
What I DIDN'T do (but the smog tech suggested) was look at/clean the EGR.
When I failed the second time (with 3050 PPM NO levels) I took off my EGR and EGR vacuum modulator. Using the FSM, I cleaned out the EGR with carb cleaner, and took apart and cleaned the vacuum modulator filter with compressed air (as suggested by FSM). I put it back together with a new EGR gasket ($3 at the parts store - only a gasket on the intake manifold side, not the head side), and connected the hoses and BAM! it worked great. NOW...I'll admit it now because it's funny and I passed, but when I was retracing my vacuum hoses I noticed that I had crossed up the hoses between the vacuum modulator and the BVSV incorrectly, so the whole system was likely not working at all. I put things back in order, per the FSM, which is likely the REAL reason I passed this third time.
Hope that helps you pass, and anyone else in the same boat
Oh, and after I installed the new wires, I have a "ticking" noise I can hear that goes up/down with the RPMs. Seems to be on the drivers side. I checked plug/boot connections and at the dizzy and coil but can't find arcing or anything else causing it. It was not there before the plugs/wires/O2 sensor, but is now. ANY IDEAS what it could be??
11-09-2011, 09:03 AM
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Mine turned out to be a bad EGR vacuum modulator and a partially clogged hard vacuum line (the silver ones that go from the front to back of the engine).
Was passing on everything but NO at 25mph and I was damn close (within 8 points).
Blew out that clogged line, replaced the EGR vacuum modulator (~$60 at toyota) and it passed with flying colors.
Was passing on everything but NO at 25mph and I was damn close (within 8 points).
Blew out that clogged line, replaced the EGR vacuum modulator (~$60 at toyota) and it passed with flying colors.
03-24-2012, 08:41 AM
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My 1994 22RE pickup has had the same issue regarding high NOx at 15 mph test for many years. The last 6 smog checks have been inconsistent. In 2000, the NOx was really low, but in 2002 the NOx was just under the limit, and then in 2004 it was really low again. All other numbers were basically the same. In 2010 it failed because of high NOx (580 ppm, limit 386 ppm) and a non-CA-legal CAT (someone stole original, and a local parts store sold my brother an old stock part). Changed to a CA-legal CAT and it still barely passed (375 ppm @ 15 mph and 40 ppm at 25 mph).
Now in 2012 it again barely passed (380 ppm). This is after putting alot of work into it all weekends over the last 3 months, including new EGR valve and modulator, new AFM (cracked into the old one to richen up mixture--don't do it), new O2 sensor, new coolant temp sensor, all new vacuum hoses, cleaned throttle body, cleaned all intake system, had all 5 fuel injectors cleaned (by DR. Injector in Rancho Cordova, CA: recommended), new fuel filter, valve job, new valve stem seals, OEM head gasket, new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and all new drive train lubricants. Tested all Fuel injection and Ignition components. All this and the NOx was still "high" at 15 mph test. I don't know how the average NOx for this speed is 74 ppm.
I think that 1500 - 1600 rpm is a weird spot for the engine/emission controls. Who drives at 1500 rpm in second gear under 50% load (dyno test)? Kind of stupid that they are supposed to bog the engine like that. It seems like the smog test should allow 1st gear for the 15 mph test and 2nd for the 25. Or use a more realistic test, who ever drives at 15 mph for any reason? Why not drive at 25 mph for a few minutes and then start sampling, instead of letting it sit at idle for 10 minutes (engine not cooling properly, hot spots) and then testing right away at 15 mph.
There are studies that show that while E10 blend oxygenated fuels decrease CO and HC, they increase NOX (http://clasfaculty.ucdenver.edu/landerso/98WA61A01.pdf). I think that maybe the E10 gas has something to do with the high test NOx. I usually just buy 87 octane gas. Some people have said to only use 91 octane when going for the test. That supposedly burns cooler, but that doesn't explain why the test measured 2 ppm at 25 mph and 380 ppm at 15 mph. Maybe the CAT doesn't stay hot enough during the 15 mph test. The smog techs check the ignition timing, so that can't really be changed all that much (a couple degrees maybe).
The online lambda calculators (e.g., http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html) have fine print that says they assume there are no exhaust leaks, and that the air injection system (PAIR system) is disabled. So I don't know how accurate those calculators are for us, using the DMV test numbers, assuming that we didn't cheat. With the numbers from my last DMV test (with PAIR functioning), it says lambda is 0.9948 for the 15 mph test with NOx at 380 (limit 386). So that is actually a little rich, but, again, the working air injection system makes that calculator inaccurate according to the fine print.
Anyway, I just wanted to share that replacing so many parts and testing all other emissions components doesn't reduce NOx at 15mph.
Now in 2012 it again barely passed (380 ppm). This is after putting alot of work into it all weekends over the last 3 months, including new EGR valve and modulator, new AFM (cracked into the old one to richen up mixture--don't do it), new O2 sensor, new coolant temp sensor, all new vacuum hoses, cleaned throttle body, cleaned all intake system, had all 5 fuel injectors cleaned (by DR. Injector in Rancho Cordova, CA: recommended), new fuel filter, valve job, new valve stem seals, OEM head gasket, new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and all new drive train lubricants. Tested all Fuel injection and Ignition components. All this and the NOx was still "high" at 15 mph test. I don't know how the average NOx for this speed is 74 ppm.
I think that 1500 - 1600 rpm is a weird spot for the engine/emission controls. Who drives at 1500 rpm in second gear under 50% load (dyno test)? Kind of stupid that they are supposed to bog the engine like that. It seems like the smog test should allow 1st gear for the 15 mph test and 2nd for the 25. Or use a more realistic test, who ever drives at 15 mph for any reason? Why not drive at 25 mph for a few minutes and then start sampling, instead of letting it sit at idle for 10 minutes (engine not cooling properly, hot spots) and then testing right away at 15 mph.
There are studies that show that while E10 blend oxygenated fuels decrease CO and HC, they increase NOX (http://clasfaculty.ucdenver.edu/landerso/98WA61A01.pdf). I think that maybe the E10 gas has something to do with the high test NOx. I usually just buy 87 octane gas. Some people have said to only use 91 octane when going for the test. That supposedly burns cooler, but that doesn't explain why the test measured 2 ppm at 25 mph and 380 ppm at 15 mph. Maybe the CAT doesn't stay hot enough during the 15 mph test. The smog techs check the ignition timing, so that can't really be changed all that much (a couple degrees maybe).
The online lambda calculators (e.g., http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html) have fine print that says they assume there are no exhaust leaks, and that the air injection system (PAIR system) is disabled. So I don't know how accurate those calculators are for us, using the DMV test numbers, assuming that we didn't cheat. With the numbers from my last DMV test (with PAIR functioning), it says lambda is 0.9948 for the 15 mph test with NOx at 380 (limit 386). So that is actually a little rich, but, again, the working air injection system makes that calculator inaccurate according to the fine print.
Anyway, I just wanted to share that replacing so many parts and testing all other emissions components doesn't reduce NOx at 15mph.
Last edited by bigpaw; 03-25-2012 at 11:42 AM.
03-25-2012, 06:15 PM
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Sorry to hear your lack of success, but you do know that there is still something wrong with your EGR system. Whether or not you like the smog checks, you should be able to hit NOx in 40-60 ppm range without any trouble (my '94 is slowly inching up over the years, but is still below 50ppm at both 15 and 25mph).
You mentioned you cleaned the intake system. On mine (3VZE), there was so much gunk in the upper intake manifold (plenum) that the egr tube was almost blocked. You should be able to put your hand on the EGR tube outside the plenum, and it should feel "warm." In your case, with the numbers going up and down, perhaps you've got some dirt blocking something?
Good luck!
You mentioned you cleaned the intake system. On mine (3VZE), there was so much gunk in the upper intake manifold (plenum) that the egr tube was almost blocked. You should be able to put your hand on the EGR tube outside the plenum, and it should feel "warm." In your case, with the numbers going up and down, perhaps you've got some dirt blocking something?
Good luck!
03-29-2012, 06:23 PM
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I'm sure the EGR system is working fine; disassembled, cleaned, and tested all EGR components. Pipe gets very warm, and it works fine during the 25 mph test (40 ppm NOx). Just don't know if the EGR works all that well at 1500 rpm. I know it should be possible since some years it tests low and others it barely passes.
I guess I should tee a vacuum gauge onto the line going to the egr valve and see at what rpm it opens up, while driving at different speeds.
I guess I should tee a vacuum gauge onto the line going to the egr valve and see at what rpm it opens up, while driving at different speeds.
04-19-2012, 05:45 PM
#27
Hey Smog Dudes.... Just thought I'd throw it up here too....(I started a thread, then got sent the link to this one..... Why not, right? )
Pasting my last post on the thread to here........
"Wow, THANKS, GUYS! I found another thread regarding CA smog fail, lol... It's very confusing, for me anyhow, considering I'm not really apt in this part of chemistry.... But I'm trying.
So, It seems the Modulator(EGR Solenoid) is a COMMON culprit for 'WHY HIGH NOX?' ....
I cleaned the Modulator filter pack thing last year(3Kmiles ago or so)... But didn't see anything but that packing foam looking disc in there... Sounds like you're saying there's 2 pieces in there? Again, I STILL can't see how that thing works other than giving the emissions system the ability to pull/push air from 3 different ports on itself... But apparently a couple people have swapped them out and passed.
Lemme share what I'm dealing with here, in total... that might help bring "smogtech" and a couple other guys like that on board... Plus with what you've all posted, I guess I've got some fishing to do in the FSM. (PS> I'm guessing that just because I get the EGR to trip a stall while applying vacuum, that doesn't mean that the modulator is doing it's job, right? lol).......
* Fully Rebuilt 22RE with New Pistons and Rings, Fresh Bore and Hone to 20over, 10-10 Crank Grind(Hot tanked and air reamed all ports/passages as well as possible, including the EGR-HEAD exit)
* All new Manganese Bronze Guides, Valves, Eski Springs, Viton Seals, Head fully freshened up and New HG set to 64#
... New 02(Denso, 5K miles old?),
... New CAT(5K ago) done by reputable exhaust shop,
... New TPS(5K ago- and to the best of my ability, done to specs around 3 times to 4crawler instructions)
... Newer CTS( Napa; seems to read within specs/6K miles old)
... All Injectors serviced by RC(including CSI, 5K miles ago)"Excellent" rating
... Newer 02 Sensor(Denso, 6K miles on it?)
... New Thermostatic Time Temp Sending unit(OEM; The one behind/on the Stat Housing)
... New High End Radiator/Water pump/Alternator/Steering Pump/Steering Box/Plug Wires(6K Miles/Magnecore 8.5MM from LCE)/All new Vacuum and Water Hoses(Besides the heater core hoses and Booster hose)
... New Fuel Pump
... New LCE headers
... Always keep fresh OEM Air Filters in there
... Change Oil Religiously and use OEM Filters
What's not new;
... EGR and Modulator
... Few other things like booster/cruise control module and actuator/Fuel Pressure Regulator/Fuel Damper/Trans
I'm going to further check into the EGR/Modulator testing per FSM and then double check all the routing of the vacuum while at it...(after 200 times, I think I have it right, but I CAN'T SAY I KNOW..... ya know? lol. Never know, might have crossed something 'last time')....
I don't have that high tech calculator thingymadoer to check further into 02 and C02 so I will try to work with what I have and report back what I find.... Some repairs can be put off a while.. This one is REALLY frustrating cuz it's a bit more complicated than most stuff I can just 'test, verify/rule out', ya know?"
I will also post the scan of my results.........
************************************************** ************
I've also done a couple basic Mighty-VAC tests on the EGR, FPR, ..but gonna have to look into the FSM as soon as I can find time and rule out/verify bad the Modulator, etc., once and for all.
Far as the tests... I pumped 4-5" vacuum on the EGR(on top) and it very quickly tried to stall. Also, when I pump 4-5" on it while not running, it holds every inch of vacuum for several minutes.... Not sure as to how to test the Modulator... But I've cleaned it, months ago... so Unless there is more than one piece of foam in there... Not sure how to test it just yet.
THANKS, VERY MUCH, Smog Guys, either way! I greatly appreciate that you've shared your expertise on here...
PS> Here's a link to my "CA Smog Fail" thread.......
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51904889
Pasting my last post on the thread to here........
"Wow, THANKS, GUYS! I found another thread regarding CA smog fail, lol... It's very confusing, for me anyhow, considering I'm not really apt in this part of chemistry.... But I'm trying.
So, It seems the Modulator(EGR Solenoid) is a COMMON culprit for 'WHY HIGH NOX?' ....
I cleaned the Modulator filter pack thing last year(3Kmiles ago or so)... But didn't see anything but that packing foam looking disc in there... Sounds like you're saying there's 2 pieces in there? Again, I STILL can't see how that thing works other than giving the emissions system the ability to pull/push air from 3 different ports on itself... But apparently a couple people have swapped them out and passed.
Lemme share what I'm dealing with here, in total... that might help bring "smogtech" and a couple other guys like that on board... Plus with what you've all posted, I guess I've got some fishing to do in the FSM. (PS> I'm guessing that just because I get the EGR to trip a stall while applying vacuum, that doesn't mean that the modulator is doing it's job, right? lol).......
* Fully Rebuilt 22RE with New Pistons and Rings, Fresh Bore and Hone to 20over, 10-10 Crank Grind(Hot tanked and air reamed all ports/passages as well as possible, including the EGR-HEAD exit)
* All new Manganese Bronze Guides, Valves, Eski Springs, Viton Seals, Head fully freshened up and New HG set to 64#
... New 02(Denso, 5K miles old?),
... New CAT(5K ago) done by reputable exhaust shop,
... New TPS(5K ago- and to the best of my ability, done to specs around 3 times to 4crawler instructions)
... Newer CTS( Napa; seems to read within specs/6K miles old)
... All Injectors serviced by RC(including CSI, 5K miles ago)"Excellent" rating
... Newer 02 Sensor(Denso, 6K miles on it?)
... New Thermostatic Time Temp Sending unit(OEM; The one behind/on the Stat Housing)
... New High End Radiator/Water pump/Alternator/Steering Pump/Steering Box/Plug Wires(6K Miles/Magnecore 8.5MM from LCE)/All new Vacuum and Water Hoses(Besides the heater core hoses and Booster hose)
... New Fuel Pump
... New LCE headers
... Always keep fresh OEM Air Filters in there
... Change Oil Religiously and use OEM Filters
What's not new;
... EGR and Modulator
... Few other things like booster/cruise control module and actuator/Fuel Pressure Regulator/Fuel Damper/Trans
I'm going to further check into the EGR/Modulator testing per FSM and then double check all the routing of the vacuum while at it...(after 200 times, I think I have it right, but I CAN'T SAY I KNOW..... ya know? lol. Never know, might have crossed something 'last time')....
I don't have that high tech calculator thingymadoer to check further into 02 and C02 so I will try to work with what I have and report back what I find.... Some repairs can be put off a while.. This one is REALLY frustrating cuz it's a bit more complicated than most stuff I can just 'test, verify/rule out', ya know?"
I will also post the scan of my results.........
************************************************** ************
I've also done a couple basic Mighty-VAC tests on the EGR, FPR, ..but gonna have to look into the FSM as soon as I can find time and rule out/verify bad the Modulator, etc., once and for all.
Far as the tests... I pumped 4-5" vacuum on the EGR(on top) and it very quickly tried to stall. Also, when I pump 4-5" on it while not running, it holds every inch of vacuum for several minutes.... Not sure as to how to test the Modulator... But I've cleaned it, months ago... so Unless there is more than one piece of foam in there... Not sure how to test it just yet.
THANKS, VERY MUCH, Smog Guys, either way! I greatly appreciate that you've shared your expertise on here...
PS> Here's a link to my "CA Smog Fail" thread.......
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51904889
04-22-2012, 12:53 PM
#28
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Keep seeking the ad for nitrogen enriched gasoline at Shell and wondering if this nitrogen translates into high NOx. The V-power and Techron PEA (amine) type cleaners are similar chemistry. Just found this article Do the Engine-Performance Benefits of Nitrogen-Enriched Gas Outweigh the Added Emissions? at:
http://www.scientificamerican.com/ar...n-enriched-gas
Basically the summary is, "the addition of more nitrogen to the fuel mix generally will increase NOx emissions."
So...that sucks.
Maybe try running cheaper gas (less cleaners?) during the smog check and see if lower NOx is achieved. I would very much like to know if that helps for next time.
http://www.scientificamerican.com/ar...n-enriched-gas
Basically the summary is, "the addition of more nitrogen to the fuel mix generally will increase NOx emissions."
So...that sucks.
Maybe try running cheaper gas (less cleaners?) during the smog check and see if lower NOx is achieved. I would very much like to know if that helps for next time.
Last edited by bigpaw; 04-22-2012 at 01:11 PM.
04-22-2012, 03:50 PM
#29
Regarding my Failure of 25MPH NOX-PPM in CALIF.(Very close to failing NOX at 15mph as well and TOO close, as well, on the 15MPH "HC" portion IMHO)...........Copy and pasting some posts/info thus far from my own "CA Smog Test Failure" Thread.... Link and 'nit pick posts' below>>>>
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51904889
* Emissions Vacuum Routing checks out as directed by FSM and Hood Sticker
* Ran a couple tests with Vacuum Gauge + More >>>>>>>
In EC-13, #1, the Modulator appears to be clean still. I will blow it out with air, regardless.
In EC-13, #2 and #3,.... I verified it started.
In EC-13, #4, .... I think in moving out to the driveway I got it above 86*F (However, it was under 2" vacuum at 3500RPM, much lower than it was in step #5, warmed up)
In EC-13, #5, Steps A and B .... I warmed it up for several minutes and tested as instructed; It showed under 3" Vacuum(Maybe 2.5"?)
In EC-13, #5, Steps C, D ...Hooked up as instructed and found 15-18" Vacuum as I hit 3000RPM(give or take)
In EC-14, #6, .... I had done a video of this... I applied direct vacuum to the top of the EGR... The motor DID, in fact, want to die, quickly.(Whether at idle or 3000RPM)
in EC-14, regarding the "BVSV" portion.... Cold and Hot.... It passed both tests.... "Blow air into the J while under 86*F(I did it when cold) and be sure that Air passes through the J(lower) port and out the Top(basket/filter).... Then, warm up above 111*F and you should be able to blow air into J and have it come out K port(Upper on the BVSV)".... As I said, passed both tests with flying colors, no resistance, etc.
In EC-14, Modulator Portion.... I'm NOT SURE! I tested by blowing air while not running, through "Q", while plugging up "R" and "P"..... Seemed air flowed out the top/filter ok. In the second part of testing, "Run at 3500RPM and repeat the previous test... Resistance should be dramatically increased"(shouldn't be able to blow air through it really well while plugging R and P and blowing into Q). I also noticed that the Filter in the Original is MUCH dirtier than I thought I'd left it. I can see a TWO black dots on the Bottom-most filter, which confirms that I've been in there and blew air through it, even moved it clockwise 20-degrees or so... But when I opened the "DONOR" I got from a low miles 2WD at Pick-Your-Part... it was MUCH easier to see light through it and was CLEARLY, visibly much whiter and cleaner! I THEN switched the Filters and finally did the "Modulator Testing" mentioned above... And got the results I mentioned("Didn't seem to be MUCH MORE resistant at 3500RPM than while 'engine off'.")
Some things I haven't done which I haven't seen mentioned, is "Blow air through the vacuum rails one at a time to be sure they will pass air without restriction"... Yes, that's my own quotes of my thoughts, lol. I would think they're working as the rig passed all the other tests... But I can't be sure until I rule it out, ya know?
I did a LAMBDA of the 25MPH Portion of the Test(The Portion I failed);
http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html
MY RESULT; LAMBDA=1.011 ...... Fuel/Air Ratio=14.87
The Quote under where mine fell on the 'sliding scale' .....
= 1.0 perfect for emission and CAT operation (1.005 to 0.995 good for CAT operation)
************************************************** *********************
I've not really done any 02 Testing, but as I believe I've posted already...
NEW/er(within 5K);
*Denso 02
*Denso CTS
*OEM TPS
*Radiator
*Water pump
*Oil Pump
*Fuel Pump
*C.O.R.(Circuit Open Relay)
*OEM Thermostatic Temp Time Switch(behind Stat)
*RC Serviced Injectors(including CSI)
*Fuel Filter
*Air intake Elbow and In-tact Pipe
*OEM Air Filter
*8.5MM Magnecore LCE Wire Kit
*OEM Cap and Rotor
*All new Vacuum Lines(including Larger OEM IACV lines)
*OEM IACV
*Flushed Heater Core(Heater and AC Work well)
*All new OEM Denso AC Seals throughout/OEM Drier and Charged
*Fully Rebuilt motor(hot tanked/air flushed and reamed 3+ times, both head and block)
*3-way CAT(magnaflow I believe, from a reputable shop)
*LCE Header(C.A.R.B. Stamped) and All new Pipe to CAT to Borla to 2.50" Tapered Tip
*Aisin HD Clutch Kit
*Resurfaced Flywheel
*Belts/H20 Hoses
*Starter
*Steering Pump(& 66K Mile Gear Box from 2wd)
*IFS Restoration(95%)
*Fully Cleaned Throttle Body/Plenum/Intake
*CAM/Springs/Valves/Adjusters-& lapped rockers/Guides/Seals/HG
*Rings/Pistons/Crank-10-10/Bearings
*Doesn't Leak a DROP, front to back
What's NOT new;
*EGR / Modulator / BVSV
*CSI-Time Switch
*Distributor
*Coil and Ignitor
*Injector Resistor
*FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator)
*Fuel Pressure Damper(Front of Rail)
*Heater Core
*AFM(Purchased an unmolested one from JBM715 on here as mine had been 'tampered with', lol)
*ECU
*Neither VSV's, FPR or AC, are new
*The driver, OBVIOUSLY, hahaha.
************************************************** **********************
I'm ONLY posting this in order to help someone in the future... In my own Smog thread, there's much more info and input from Smog Pros like "SCOPE" and "4Crawler". Hopefully, as I stated, it will help someone like me in the future who is really in a spot in life in many ways and NEEDS A BREAK! lol.
I have one question I would LOVE answered without having to purchase to Modulator just to find out.....
*** WHEN I PULL VACUUM ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MODULATOR, SHOULD IT, LIKE THE EGR, HOLD VACUUM AT 5" FOR A DECENT AMOUNT OF TIME? ........(Mine does not, and I don't see that as a test in the FSM, whatsoever. And if it's NOT supposed to "Hold Vacuum", ...well, that would answer me as to why it's not in the FSM, lol)
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51904889
* Emissions Vacuum Routing checks out as directed by FSM and Hood Sticker
* Ran a couple tests with Vacuum Gauge + More >>>>>>>
In EC-13, #1, the Modulator appears to be clean still. I will blow it out with air, regardless.
In EC-13, #2 and #3,.... I verified it started.
In EC-13, #4, .... I think in moving out to the driveway I got it above 86*F (However, it was under 2" vacuum at 3500RPM, much lower than it was in step #5, warmed up)
In EC-13, #5, Steps A and B .... I warmed it up for several minutes and tested as instructed; It showed under 3" Vacuum(Maybe 2.5"?)
In EC-13, #5, Steps C, D ...Hooked up as instructed and found 15-18" Vacuum as I hit 3000RPM(give or take)
In EC-14, #6, .... I had done a video of this... I applied direct vacuum to the top of the EGR... The motor DID, in fact, want to die, quickly.(Whether at idle or 3000RPM)
in EC-14, regarding the "BVSV" portion.... Cold and Hot.... It passed both tests.... "Blow air into the J while under 86*F(I did it when cold) and be sure that Air passes through the J(lower) port and out the Top(basket/filter).... Then, warm up above 111*F and you should be able to blow air into J and have it come out K port(Upper on the BVSV)".... As I said, passed both tests with flying colors, no resistance, etc.
In EC-14, Modulator Portion.... I'm NOT SURE! I tested by blowing air while not running, through "Q", while plugging up "R" and "P"..... Seemed air flowed out the top/filter ok. In the second part of testing, "Run at 3500RPM and repeat the previous test... Resistance should be dramatically increased"(shouldn't be able to blow air through it really well while plugging R and P and blowing into Q). I also noticed that the Filter in the Original is MUCH dirtier than I thought I'd left it. I can see a TWO black dots on the Bottom-most filter, which confirms that I've been in there and blew air through it, even moved it clockwise 20-degrees or so... But when I opened the "DONOR" I got from a low miles 2WD at Pick-Your-Part... it was MUCH easier to see light through it and was CLEARLY, visibly much whiter and cleaner! I THEN switched the Filters and finally did the "Modulator Testing" mentioned above... And got the results I mentioned("Didn't seem to be MUCH MORE resistant at 3500RPM than while 'engine off'.")
Some things I haven't done which I haven't seen mentioned, is "Blow air through the vacuum rails one at a time to be sure they will pass air without restriction"... Yes, that's my own quotes of my thoughts, lol. I would think they're working as the rig passed all the other tests... But I can't be sure until I rule it out, ya know?
I did a LAMBDA of the 25MPH Portion of the Test(The Portion I failed);
http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html
MY RESULT; LAMBDA=1.011 ...... Fuel/Air Ratio=14.87
The Quote under where mine fell on the 'sliding scale' .....
= 1.0 perfect for emission and CAT operation (1.005 to 0.995 good for CAT operation)
************************************************** *********************
I've not really done any 02 Testing, but as I believe I've posted already...
NEW/er(within 5K);
*Denso 02
*Denso CTS
*OEM TPS
*Radiator
*Water pump
*Oil Pump
*Fuel Pump
*C.O.R.(Circuit Open Relay)
*OEM Thermostatic Temp Time Switch(behind Stat)
*RC Serviced Injectors(including CSI)
*Fuel Filter
*Air intake Elbow and In-tact Pipe
*OEM Air Filter
*8.5MM Magnecore LCE Wire Kit
*OEM Cap and Rotor
*All new Vacuum Lines(including Larger OEM IACV lines)
*OEM IACV
*Flushed Heater Core(Heater and AC Work well)
*All new OEM Denso AC Seals throughout/OEM Drier and Charged
*Fully Rebuilt motor(hot tanked/air flushed and reamed 3+ times, both head and block)
*3-way CAT(magnaflow I believe, from a reputable shop)
*LCE Header(C.A.R.B. Stamped) and All new Pipe to CAT to Borla to 2.50" Tapered Tip
*Aisin HD Clutch Kit
*Resurfaced Flywheel
*Belts/H20 Hoses
*Starter
*Steering Pump(& 66K Mile Gear Box from 2wd)
*IFS Restoration(95%)
*Fully Cleaned Throttle Body/Plenum/Intake
*CAM/Springs/Valves/Adjusters-& lapped rockers/Guides/Seals/HG
*Rings/Pistons/Crank-10-10/Bearings
*Doesn't Leak a DROP, front to back
What's NOT new;
*EGR / Modulator / BVSV
*CSI-Time Switch
*Distributor
*Coil and Ignitor
*Injector Resistor
*FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator)
*Fuel Pressure Damper(Front of Rail)
*Heater Core
*AFM(Purchased an unmolested one from JBM715 on here as mine had been 'tampered with', lol)
*ECU
*Neither VSV's, FPR or AC, are new
*The driver, OBVIOUSLY, hahaha.
************************************************** **********************
I'm ONLY posting this in order to help someone in the future... In my own Smog thread, there's much more info and input from Smog Pros like "SCOPE" and "4Crawler". Hopefully, as I stated, it will help someone like me in the future who is really in a spot in life in many ways and NEEDS A BREAK! lol.
I have one question I would LOVE answered without having to purchase to Modulator just to find out.....
*** WHEN I PULL VACUUM ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MODULATOR, SHOULD IT, LIKE THE EGR, HOLD VACUUM AT 5" FOR A DECENT AMOUNT OF TIME? ........(Mine does not, and I don't see that as a test in the FSM, whatsoever. And if it's NOT supposed to "Hold Vacuum", ...well, that would answer me as to why it's not in the FSM, lol)
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 04-22-2012 at 03:56 PM.
08-22-2017, 07:01 PM
#31
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Bump on an old thread.. i'm having the High NOX issue on my 85 PU 22RE.
I read this thread after failing the 1st time. Used the lambda calculator and came up with a score of 1.016 and 68.74%.
Here are my 1st run numbers:
CO2=14.9
O2=.3
HC=13
CO=.03
NO=1716 (fail) limit is 855
I went through the FSM and did all the tests and the EGR system is functioning properly. I did every single test down the line and all were good.
So it appears to be running on the lean side so I attempted to boost up the idle speed to about 1000 and retarded the timing from 0 TDC to about 4 TDC.
Second time I failed again for High nox at both 15 and 25
2nd test numbers@25 MPH:
Co2=14.7
o2=.1
HC=17
CO=.02
NO= 1183 (fail.. max 855 but down from 1716)
2nd @ 15
CO2=14.8
o2=.1
HC=19
CO.01
NO=1092 (fail max 795 and up from 696 on test 1)
Lambda calc=
1.006
80.43%
So.. i'm not sure WTF here? The motor is super low mileage around 1000 miles, the motor was a new build by Davez Off road and installed by the PO. The smog guy didn't really have any suggestions except he said that because I'm running 37's on a small motor that it can cause it to bog down and have high NOX.
Any help would be appreciated.
I read this thread after failing the 1st time. Used the lambda calculator and came up with a score of 1.016 and 68.74%.
Here are my 1st run numbers:
CO2=14.9
O2=.3
HC=13
CO=.03
NO=1716 (fail) limit is 855
I went through the FSM and did all the tests and the EGR system is functioning properly. I did every single test down the line and all were good.
So it appears to be running on the lean side so I attempted to boost up the idle speed to about 1000 and retarded the timing from 0 TDC to about 4 TDC.
Second time I failed again for High nox at both 15 and 25
2nd test numbers@25 MPH:
Co2=14.7
o2=.1
HC=17
CO=.02
NO= 1183 (fail.. max 855 but down from 1716)
2nd @ 15
CO2=14.8
o2=.1
HC=19
CO.01
NO=1092 (fail max 795 and up from 696 on test 1)
Lambda calc=
1.006
80.43%
So.. i'm not sure WTF here? The motor is super low mileage around 1000 miles, the motor was a new build by Davez Off road and installed by the PO. The smog guy didn't really have any suggestions except he said that because I'm running 37's on a small motor that it can cause it to bog down and have high NOX.
Any help would be appreciated.
08-23-2017, 08:39 AM
#32
Looks to me that even if your egr is functioning it's not actuating. If you were barely failing I would say o2 sensor but with such a high failure like that I would look more to make sure the egr is being turned on. Did you test the vacuum switching valve?
08-23-2017, 08:44 PM
#33
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So.. thanks Yotard.. after I read your reply I really started thinking about it. 1st let me say I was drinking a bit too much in the garage during the first round of tests. Second.. the FSM overcomplicates the testing for the egr system. Telling you to take out the BSV etc.. the best thing to do is fully understand how and WHEN the egr system is supposed to work. I watched a few videos on youtube and got a better understanding of the EGR system and how it works. This enabled me to trace vacuum through the different areas it should be and when. Having said that... I am not getting vacuum through my BSV. Im getting vacuum just before but not through it to the EGR when it needs to be.
So my BSV is bad, i'll get a new one and retune the truck back to stock and see how that goes.
BTW... here are a few good vids on the EGR system.
So my BSV is bad, i'll get a new one and retune the truck back to stock and see how that goes.
BTW... here are a few good vids on the EGR system.
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