gbwsaw28

I used to drive a 93 yota pick-up (22re) everyday highway 17 ("the hill" is it's local name) here in California, and during the summer the temp gauge would sit around middle to the upper white limit (never red) during the climb. after a year or two of this the truck blew a head gasket.

I tried everything before the gasket blew to keep it cool. replaced the fan clutch. had radiator flushed. replaced hosing. replaced thermostat twice ( one with a bypass hole. heater on full. I mean everything...

Now it's summer and my 88 4runner(22re) is doing the same thing:
during the climb, thermostat is in middle to upper end. I've repeated the preventative steps I mentioned above for the 93 yota, and to no avail.

With two separate vehicles showing the same result, it seems that the cooling system in the 22re isnt quite enough for my commute. What can I do to keep these little engines cool on climbing hills?

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Swap in a 3 row radiator from a v6 4Runner. You could try adding Red Line Water Wetter to your coolant, too.

combatcarl

Bigger radiator, as mentioned above, cooler rated thermostat, LOWER GEAR. Biggest killer on hills is trying to run it at 50-60 in fourth, even fifth gear. Let your speed drop. Tag third, let it run uphill about 40-45. Screw traffic. Its a four cylinder, 100 horse engine grunting a 3,000 lb truck uphill. In the heat. Try replacement fan clutch, OEM is best, but spendy. Then enjoy a little slower pace of life, there, mang.

Turd Furgeson

The 3-row v6 rad is a definite upgrade. Not only do you have an extra row of tubes,but the most important part is extra surface area because it's a couple inches taller. It is typically a direct bolt in. Your shroud should bolt up (but will not cover all of the rad) and you just need to rotate the lower hose a little bit. The upper hose you sometimes have to get creative with since the v6 top hose conn. is curved slightly to the pass. side. Or you can have your rad re-cored with the best core possible.

gbwsaw28

What about adding an electric fan? add a couple spacers move the radiator towards the engine, and a thin electric fan in front...

combatcarl

I dunno if electric would do much, at 40 MPH or so, I think the air is moving faster than the fan...but I dunno. Do ya have a bug screen in front of the radiator? What tires/trans/gears do ya have?

2big4arunner

I have the best possible rad upgrade for your little 22re. I just did it in my 4runner with the 3vze v6 and it made the 3core look horrible.

I have it posted in a listing called "3.0 highway overheating issue"

you can use a radiator from a 4.0 ford explorer or mazda pickup (rad number cu1164 and available at Picknpull for cheap). its 2 1/4 inches thick and I showed some pictures of the prep and install. the inlet and outlets are in the same places and same sides. you need a carriage bolt for the steering box or a cap for the bolt head (prevents the bolt from rubbing the new hose. a 22 inch by 1 1/4" flex rad hose. and I used the bottom hose cut on the top section due to lack of room.

Here is the link to the pictures I have and the radiator you will need


http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0903-1.jpg

https://shop.performanceradiator.com...roduct_id=5600

ThatGuy1295

These motors shouldn't naturally overheat

2big4arunner

I was having the same issue. Only overheating on the big hills under plenty of load. The original radiator wasn't easy to find so I found that upgrade, to the best Toyota had, in a wrecking yard that is easily found. Lets just say that this would ensure the rad wasn't plugged and is super easy to install

SCToy

My 81 22r does fine over 17, the radiator is not in good shape either. It shouldn't be overheating.

gbwsaw28

well it doesn't overheat, it "warms up" a bit. Yours stays perfectly cool over 17?

SCToy

Perfectly cool. It even was staying too cold for a week when my thermostat got stuck open. Replaced that and it just hangs out a bit below the middle all the time again.

SCToy

Is your EGR working? Does it get good fuel economy? If its running too lean, that'll cause it to run hot. Other things besides just the radiator Contribute to keepin it cool.

2big4arunner

Proper timing, system reading air flow wrong and leaning out, wrong thermostat (needs jiggle valve and 180'degree) poor water flow from water pump (check pressure on upper rad hose) half plugged catalytic converter.... lots of things can cause heat, but I just experienced the same problem with the 3vz... Close but not quite enough cooling. Only under load on longer hills. worse if you have been on the highway first. Harder if hauling a load.

Anyone can have a bad rad no matter what it looks like from any of the holes (mine was clean btw) if its not transferring the heat made by the engine under load and you have tried other stuff. Try replacing the rad (even if its just to another Toyota)

Ps. Writing kit to go electric is 25-50 bucks, I suggest a stereo capacitor to take the load off the electrical system, and a 12 inch Taurus fan mounted to a flat plate (I slotted mine before with a cutting saw and tin snips) under 120 bucks and easier to diagnose/ repair/ run

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

these trucks are getting old perhaps it is time for a brand NEW radiator .

Tubes get plugged over the years.

I have talked to all the radiator repair shops in the area these radiators are so small no one wanted to clean the tubes or recore because the cost would be more then buying new.

Turd Furgeson

jimmy rigging a plastic/aluminum piece of crap in there may be working great,but the right 3-row copper/brass v-6 one would be a better radiator in the long run. Those 1164's are notorious for the inlet tank seam leaking and for some reason tube-to-header leaks in the corners.

89yota22repower

Like stated above it shouldnt overheat, Keep the heat on 1 or 2, and make sure the fan is working.. my 22re never gets in the middle on the temp gauge.. and i run 5 29s and it tachs up high.. Somthings wrong with ur motor headgasket may be going.

2big4arunner

I love some of the opinions on this site. Makes you think every vehicle, part or person is either stupid, crappy, or a pos.

That isn't Jimmy rigged, I bolted up the brackets and used bolts from the original rad. It would be the same putting in a high performance rad from something else.
The leaks are easy to avoid.... Make sure the tanks are crimped on tightly and not being hit by random objects LOL
At 120 bucks at a local rad shop. I will be a good driver/ mechanic and do regular checks on my system and truck.

Ps. You buy crap, you get crap. You do the work wrong, its your fault

combatcarl

Hey 2big, is that a cross-flow radiator? Somewhere I heard they do tend to cool better than down-flow ones do, is there any merit to that? The plastic ends spook me tho. Never seems to hold up real well.

2big4arunner

Yeah, its a high flow, cross flow radiator. I haven't had issues with them. If they are mounted like Ford does in the explorer (rubber grommits on the bottom) then if the truck flexes, it has room to move. They might make the rad with metal tanks. They still crimp or soder on. I don't mind crimp on but prefer soder. Don't mind my spelling. On my phone between managers.

Personally, its a cheap, easy fix to something other then a brand new 300 dollar triple core