Engine stumbles: Advanced ignition timing, 5 degree BDC?
#1
Engine stumbles: Advanced ignition timing, 5 degree BDC?
Hi there,
I have 22R Engine on 1990 4Runner model.
I try to fix the problm I have after I have replaced the head gasket. The engine stumbles when driving and misses fire randomly at idle.
One thing I want to make sure is ignition timing right before I diagnose to vaccum leaks around the inlet, carby and etc.
I am little bit confused with Haynes manual.
The spec shows that the timing should be 5 degree BDC at 950rpm max.
The instruction states that you should check the timing without advance vacuum hose connected. (i.e. without advance timing)
I noted that the advance vacumm unit does advance about about another 5 degree.
Now the question is:
1. Do you adjust timing 5 BDC without advance vacuum hose connected? So practically you are adjusting to 10 degree BDC. The power improved little better if I adjust 5 degree BDC without the hose connected.
2. How far degree should I or can you advance the timing if it is going to give more power or get improved?
Any tips from your experience would be very appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I have 22R Engine on 1990 4Runner model.
I try to fix the problm I have after I have replaced the head gasket. The engine stumbles when driving and misses fire randomly at idle.
One thing I want to make sure is ignition timing right before I diagnose to vaccum leaks around the inlet, carby and etc.
I am little bit confused with Haynes manual.
The spec shows that the timing should be 5 degree BDC at 950rpm max.
The instruction states that you should check the timing without advance vacuum hose connected. (i.e. without advance timing)
I noted that the advance vacumm unit does advance about about another 5 degree.
Now the question is:
1. Do you adjust timing 5 BDC without advance vacuum hose connected? So practically you are adjusting to 10 degree BDC. The power improved little better if I adjust 5 degree BDC without the hose connected.
2. How far degree should I or can you advance the timing if it is going to give more power or get improved?
Any tips from your experience would be very appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Fixed the Engine stumbling problem!
Hi there, I fixed the problem I have where engin stumbled.
The spark was arcing around ignition coils which leaked the power and made arcing noises.
Interestingly, it was not the spark lead at the ignition coil. It was #2 power lead which was faulty. After replacing this, it does not stumble any more.
However, I still want to find out what would be the best degree to set the ignition timing.
Is it 5 degree BDC without advance vacuum hose connected to distributor?
OR
Is it 0 degree BDC without the hose connected. (i.e. this will make 5 degree BDC when thoe vacuum hose is connected.
Thanks in advance!!
The spark was arcing around ignition coils which leaked the power and made arcing noises.
Interestingly, it was not the spark lead at the ignition coil. It was #2 power lead which was faulty. After replacing this, it does not stumble any more.
However, I still want to find out what would be the best degree to set the ignition timing.
Is it 5 degree BDC without advance vacuum hose connected to distributor?
OR
Is it 0 degree BDC without the hose connected. (i.e. this will make 5 degree BDC when thoe vacuum hose is connected.
Thanks in advance!!
#4
Hi, Thanks!!
Sorry, I meant Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). OK. So looks like I got it right. Once the I connected the vacuum hose back, it runs at about 12 degree BTDC at 950 rpm. I think it runs a lot better!!
This great form site. Thanks to YOTATECH!
Sorry, I meant Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). OK. So looks like I got it right. Once the I connected the vacuum hose back, it runs at about 12 degree BTDC at 950 rpm. I think it runs a lot better!!
This great form site. Thanks to YOTATECH!
#6
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Bumping this thread because I need a hand trouble-shooting. I can't seem to short the computer controlled advance to properly set the timing. This is a problem because the timing needs to be checked with the advance jumpered in order to pass California smog. Any ideas as to why a jumper across the terminals wouldn't work? I'm useless at electrical work, and don't want to pay a garage as I'm smogging in order to sell the truck and am probably only getting ~$1200 out of it...
#7
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Most of the time if you jump the test connectors and timing doesn't change, you have a problem with your throttle position sensor. It is probably not closing. Pull it off and clean and adjust it. Check 4crawler.com TPS page. It's great.
Oh wait, if its carbed I don't know what I'm talking about, sorry.
Oh wait, if its carbed I don't know what I'm talking about, sorry.
Last edited by fishon1213; 03-24-2008 at 09:51 PM.
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