KYLEFOO

There are four tranny bolts that go into the block with 17mm wrench. Bolt it to that. Two will fit and you'll have to source two that are longer.

sweitzerworks

I've got a buddy lending me his stand (looks just like that harbor freight one). Next stop will probably be the hardware store for some 12x1.25's. Thanks again guys!

sweitzerworks

Hey gang, got the engine out, didn't break anything. Lowing the tranny to get at the top bolts was definitely way to go, thanks for that.

I replaced the rear main, pilot bearing, clutch, clutch throwout bearing, and i'm making my way around to the front.

I'm going to be replacing my timing chain, do you guys think it's worth it to do my head gasket while I'm in there and if so, what's the order of operations?

Let me know,
Thanks!

Flash319

Its easier to get a good seal on the timing chain cover buy romovig the head. So i would go the head gasket and timing chain. Pull the head, do the chain and guides, water pump, oil pump, then put the head back on. Be very careful with the timing cover gaskets as this cover will leak. I usually put some white grease on the gaskets instead of the silicone. Use silicone at the head gasket to timing cover gasket intersection though. Also be very careful with the tensioner. They damage easily and then you will be doing this all again.

sweitzerworks

Thanks Flash! Will do.

I'm stuck on the drive pully bolt... going to fashion a tool to bolt to the flywheel tomorrow, we'll see how it goes.

dumpster84

I struggled with mine as well, it was super stubborn, but you can definitely get that sucker off without anything crazy.

Here's what I did, got the biggest breaker bar I could find, I think it was a 30" or so, chained the flywheel to prevent the crank from turning, and voila, it broke free super easy.

That was after many many failed attempts. My trusty I-R Impact gun wouldn't even budge it, torch to heat it didn't do anything, soaking it in PB blaster didn't do anything, but physics eventually prevailed.


Here is a link to how I chained up the flywheel: (post #22)
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...l#post52317762


You got this man

sweitzerworks

Chained the flywheel?

Flash319

Ahh we let you down. Should have got that loose when it was in the truck. Wedge a breaker bar against the frame and hit the starter. Done.

dumpster84

Yeah man. You're going to have to find some way to keep the crank from moving. I have read people using screw drivers or pry bars on the teeth of the flywheel, strap wrenches on the pulley, and all sorts of crazy stuff, but the way I did it was simple.

Take two old head bolts (or whatever bolts you are using for your engine stand/bell housing bolts, whatever) and a piece of chain that is big enough for the bolt to pass through the chain link. Place one bolt into a chain link and thread it into the bellhousing bolt hole. Take the second bolt and pass it through another chain link further down the chain and then stick that bolt into one of the holes on the fly wheel (mine wasn't threaded, but stayed in place). Finally, turn the crank slowly until there is tension on the chain and bolts, at this point, you can remove the crank pulley using a large breaker bar.

sweitzerworks

I ended up bolting a 3' sections of 2"x.5" bar stock to the fly wheel. Wedged it against the engine stand and gave the other end hell, worked like a charm. Yeah, using the starter motor makes a lot of sense.

dumpster84

Nice. Where on the flywheel did you bolt it onto?

sweitzerworks

The pressure plate bolt holes.

ditypup

Sweitz..-- ingenious!

sweitzerworks

Hello again gang, as for reinstalling the engine (lining it up with the tranny and what not) should I install the exhaust manifold and air injection pipes BEFORE putting the engine back in or after?

Also, what's the best way to not destroy the fresh pilot shaft bearing when lining these bad boys up? (aside from having assistance...)

Thanks again!

Flash319

Before.

If you do the strap around the frame thing and get th dowl pins lined up, they engage first and you should not be abot to damage the bearing (unless you start raming on things). Make sure he trans is in the same plane as the engine. Just check the gap all around the trans to engine as you put it in, keep it the same.

scope103

You can try hooking chains to your flywheel, but I would really worry about dinging something up.

Plus, someday soon you're going to want to remove the crank bolt while the engine is in place. So that chain solution isn't repeatable. You will also have to tighten that bolt back in, and the spec torque for a 22re is 116ft-lbs. You still need to keep the crank from turning, and the ole' starter trick won't help at all.

So I would advise what sweitzerworks suggests, just move it around to the front. Suck it up now and build yourself a crank-holding tool. I, of course, am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ (partly because it cost me, oh, $0.00), but there are plenty of other really good ones you can find on this site.

sweitzerworks

Thanks again folks, I honestly would never have started this project without yotatech.

Last two questions! (probably not)

1. When installing the head/timing cover, I only used RTV in the corners, should I have rtved the entire surfaces of the head/timing cover around that timing chain housing? Is this a place that often leaks oils?

2. When installing the clutch pressure plate, is there a specific orientation? There are multiple configurations that line up.

Thanks again!

Flash319

Preasure plate does not matter. Just make sure you used an alignment tool for the friction plate.
I only use the rtv in the corners because that is where the gaskets cant seal. Everyone uas an opinion on rtv. I try not to use it when there is a gasket because after a while the rtv will slide out if the surface was not clean and oil free. Also the rtv will screw up the chain tensioner if you get any in your oil system. It is hard to seal the cover to head area because the the cover does not get squished very well so there is not much tension on the gasket.

sweitzerworks

Thanks Flash! Good to know, I definitely try to use sealants as little as possible. That's a frightening thought...