Engine losing spark intermittently?!? 1991 22R Pickup
03-17-2015, 06:21 AM
#21
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Just finished ruling out the pickup coil and double checking all the connectors in the ignition system. I was briefly suspicious that I had an issue with a loose connector, but after wiggling everything I could while my multimeter was connected I didn't see anything drop out on me. I'm off to try and find a new/used ICM and see if that does it.
03-17-2015, 06:59 AM
#22
Never done it but I was reading that if you're trying to find bad wires or connections by jiggling them then a digital multimeter might not be the best thing to work with because it might not show up or it might be difficult to see.
In this case you might be better off with an analog meter because the needle movement makes it obvious.
In this case you might be better off with an analog meter because the needle movement makes it obvious.
Last edited by Odin; 03-17-2015 at 08:18 AM.
03-17-2015, 07:43 AM
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Update:
So I poked at things under the hood some more, ruled out the pickup coil (resistance normal) and couldn't get any of the electrical connectors to crap out on me despite vigorous wiggling while hooked up to multimeter.
I did, however, discover an odd addition to the problem when driving out to the junk yard to try and find a new ICU. It's more likely to happen when going uphill, it still recovers the same as before, but it's more pronounced. I'm still suspecting some electrical thing to be the source of my trouble, but this doesn't clue me into what it may be.
They did not have the ICU I was after, they had one from a 22R, but not RE. It didn't match up and the part numbers on the case were different.
So I poked at things under the hood some more, ruled out the pickup coil (resistance normal) and couldn't get any of the electrical connectors to crap out on me despite vigorous wiggling while hooked up to multimeter.
I did, however, discover an odd addition to the problem when driving out to the junk yard to try and find a new ICU. It's more likely to happen when going uphill, it still recovers the same as before, but it's more pronounced. I'm still suspecting some electrical thing to be the source of my trouble, but this doesn't clue me into what it may be.
They did not have the ICU I was after, they had one from a 22R, but not RE. It didn't match up and the part numbers on the case were different.
03-17-2015, 07:48 AM
#25
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bswarm,
I checked the ground on the ignition coil mount and cleaned it when I replaced the coil. I chased the threads for the bolts too since they looked questionable. It carries a good ground and has minimal resistance when checked against the block and negative battery.
Odin, two things:
Firstly, good point regarding the digital multimeter. I know it has a slight lag, so it might not be picking up the short, I might rig something visual (LED, small battery, wire, etc) to test those connections next.
Secondly, every time I read your username I'm tempted to make a joke about comics or Norse mythology.
I checked the ground on the ignition coil mount and cleaned it when I replaced the coil. I chased the threads for the bolts too since they looked questionable. It carries a good ground and has minimal resistance when checked against the block and negative battery.
Odin, two things:
Firstly, good point regarding the digital multimeter. I know it has a slight lag, so it might not be picking up the short, I might rig something visual (LED, small battery, wire, etc) to test those connections next.
Secondly, every time I read your username I'm tempted to make a joke about comics or Norse mythology.
03-17-2015, 08:40 AM
#27
I'm really a 9 yr old arachnid typing while juggling and watching the front door acting as the bouncer and entertainer at an internet bar in Zimbabwe.
I have to do something with my free hands,.. and eyes.
03-17-2015, 09:41 AM
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wyoming9,
The tank is just shy of being full, I'm suspecting that something is flexing and breaking the circuit. The problem is that I have no idea where that flex is or what is causing it.
The tank is just shy of being full, I'm suspecting that something is flexing and breaking the circuit. The problem is that I have no idea where that flex is or what is causing it.
03-17-2015, 12:35 PM
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Update:
I've hit my frustration point for this issue, so I took my truck to a mechanic I know pretty damn well. If they can't fix it, they won't charge me for fighting with it.
grumpin,
I checked the relays, both within tolerances according to the Haynes manual.
I've hit my frustration point for this issue, so I took my truck to a mechanic I know pretty damn well. If they can't fix it, they won't charge me for fighting with it.
grumpin,
I checked the relays, both within tolerances according to the Haynes manual.
03-17-2015, 03:33 PM
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Another thing I learned to do is write everything I've done, down. Because I'll forget and do one thing ten times and do ten things no times!
03-17-2015, 03:44 PM
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grumpin,
Why do you think I started the thread? I wanted a record, reminder, and some outside input.
I swear though, if they find out there is a stray wire that is toasted somewhere I'm gonna feel like an idiot.
Why do you think I started the thread? I wanted a record, reminder, and some outside input.
I swear though, if they find out there is a stray wire that is toasted somewhere I'm gonna feel like an idiot.
03-17-2015, 07:11 PM
#35
This exactly was happening to my buddies 86 pickup 22r. It turned out to be his igniter. The little black square bolted to your engine bay near the ignition coil
03-18-2015, 04:02 AM
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horunner1x,
I've a sneaking suspicion that it might be the igniter, as I've not found a replacement and the auto parts store doesn't seem 100% on how to test them (Advance Auto does have a black box for testing em, just not the right plug for doing so), I'm going to pray to Thor that isn't it. I already asked Odin for help and he doesn't know what's going on with it
I've a sneaking suspicion that it might be the igniter, as I've not found a replacement and the auto parts store doesn't seem 100% on how to test them (Advance Auto does have a black box for testing em, just not the right plug for doing so), I'm going to pray to Thor that isn't it. I already asked Odin for help and he doesn't know what's going on with it
03-18-2015, 06:35 AM
#37
03-18-2015, 06:58 AM
#38
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have you checked the hall effect transducer gap? If you distributor bearings are worn and this thing is just slightly out of adjustment it will cause what you are describing. So, here is my story blah blah blah...
had a flat spot when I would open the plate. Mine is carb so I rebuilt the carb. Gut said timing, so I rebuilt the dizzy, still the problem persisted. I tested everything. I ordered a new distributor and all problems went away. My father in law had replaced this dizzy with a rebuilt by apparently it was bad. So, if you can afford it buy a new part. That said there was still a little hesitation, so I bought a new chinese carb. All flat spot gone and wallah!, like a new vehicle......
But, I have to say this too! On a dodge FI engine I had a simular problem to yours, would be driving down the road and it would just cut out. I would pull over to the side and a few min's later it would fire right up. Turned out to be the MAF air box sensor got sooted up, I pulled it cleaned it and the symtoms went away. I had to eventually replace it. It didn't pull any codes. Also, you might want to try adjusting your TPI, since these both send signals to your ECU they can effect your idle. I'd be interested in what it is because I also have a 93 22re FI pickup.
had a flat spot when I would open the plate. Mine is carb so I rebuilt the carb. Gut said timing, so I rebuilt the dizzy, still the problem persisted. I tested everything. I ordered a new distributor and all problems went away. My father in law had replaced this dizzy with a rebuilt by apparently it was bad. So, if you can afford it buy a new part. That said there was still a little hesitation, so I bought a new chinese carb. All flat spot gone and wallah!, like a new vehicle......
But, I have to say this too! On a dodge FI engine I had a simular problem to yours, would be driving down the road and it would just cut out. I would pull over to the side and a few min's later it would fire right up. Turned out to be the MAF air box sensor got sooted up, I pulled it cleaned it and the symtoms went away. I had to eventually replace it. It didn't pull any codes. Also, you might want to try adjusting your TPI, since these both send signals to your ECU they can effect your idle. I'd be interested in what it is because I also have a 93 22re FI pickup.
03-18-2015, 07:01 AM
#39
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Oh, yeah, I ordered and replaced the ignitor from ebay. it was an off brand, but when it showed up it was a toyota product for $258. Autoparts stores where trying to get $550 for the same part. I'll send you a link if you are really interested. I know of no way to test them.
03-18-2015, 08:43 AM
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Right, so after all that it seems that it came down to a wiring short, which is what I was hoping it was. I was looking on the wrong side of the engine for the problem, most of my focus was on the left (driver side) and the short was of the right (passenger side).
Now I do want to stress that it seems to be fixed, I'll be putting it through its paces later today.
Praise be unto Thor?
Now I do want to stress that it seems to be fixed, I'll be putting it through its paces later today.
Praise be unto Thor?
