Engine light not throwin codes
#1
Engine light not throwin codes
I have a 1990 Toyota V6 pickup 4x4. Check engine light came on so I attempted to check the codes and it will not display flashes. The light stays on solid.
Here is what I have done:
Engine warmed up to full operating temp
Turned of engine
Installed jumper in place, rechecked multiple times, so I am sure its right
Neutral transmission
All aux systems off
Battery at 12.68
Turned to on position and the light stays on solid and does not flash. My goal is to get the code from the check engine light so I can fix/replace the bad part.
In CA so I've gotta do this before smog.
Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Here is what I have done:
Engine warmed up to full operating temp
Turned of engine
Installed jumper in place, rechecked multiple times, so I am sure its right
Neutral transmission
All aux systems off
Battery at 12.68
Turned to on position and the light stays on solid and does not flash. My goal is to get the code from the check engine light so I can fix/replace the bad part.
In CA so I've gotta do this before smog.
Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
#2
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Solid CEL leads me to think you haven't successfully jumpered TE1 to E1 (despite your certainty). Of course, you might have a broken wire so that even though you have the jumper in the right place, it doesn't do anything.
E1 is just ground, so you can use your ohmmeter to check that it is connected to ground. TE1 is a sensor line, but it has to have a few volts (probably 5-10) so that connecting it to ground does something. So check with a voltmeter E1 to TE1 to assure you get a few volts.
E1 is just ground, so you can use your ohmmeter to check that it is connected to ground. TE1 is a sensor line, but it has to have a few volts (probably 5-10) so that connecting it to ground does something. So check with a voltmeter E1 to TE1 to assure you get a few volts.
#4
E1 solid short to ground TE1 though is 0v. I checked TE1 to E1 and then TE1 directly to ground for 0v on both checks. New jumper made no difference. The TE1 post in the connector seams solid, guess I could dig out the wire below the connector and go to ground with it and see what happens.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#5
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You could test the voltage to ground of TE1 right at the ECM. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/102engin.pdf If you get voltage there, you've got a broken wire somewhere. If you get no voltage there, you might have a bad ECM.
#6
Thanks for the help scope103. The problem was that one of my jumpers was 12AWG solid and it pushed the TE1 out of the socket. So I disassembled the unit and pushed the pin back into the connector and works like a charm. Unfortunately it is a knock sensor code. One of my water lines was leaking just above the knock line that leads under the intake. I am going to let it dry out for a few days and try hopefully that clears it up.
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