Engine help. rebuild or run it?
#1
Engine help. rebuild or run it?
so i have a 95 toyota pu ext cab 4wd. picked it up from a friend for dirt cheap cause it threw a rod out the side of the block.
with the truck came an 85 2wd Toyota with a supposedly good 22r. so after pulling both motors and swaping over the last thing i did was pull the oil pan from the 22r to swap with the 22re 4wd pan.
drained the oil and everything looked good. drop the pan and we have a different story. there are lots of chunks of plastic and a plastic ring about the size of a quarter broke in half lying in the bottom of the oil pan.
what could the plastic be? when the truck was purchased it was suposubly a runner but it needed a coil. never heard the engine run. but all the main and rod bearings seam to be in great condition. no movement out of any of them. and i can turn the engine over no problem by hand.
the chunks have me worried but what do you guys think?
should i just run the engine or should i scrap it and look at a rebuild or a new engine?
im not working right now so funds are a minimum. cheaper the better.
Andy
with the truck came an 85 2wd Toyota with a supposedly good 22r. so after pulling both motors and swaping over the last thing i did was pull the oil pan from the 22r to swap with the 22re 4wd pan.
drained the oil and everything looked good. drop the pan and we have a different story. there are lots of chunks of plastic and a plastic ring about the size of a quarter broke in half lying in the bottom of the oil pan.
what could the plastic be? when the truck was purchased it was suposubly a runner but it needed a coil. never heard the engine run. but all the main and rod bearings seam to be in great condition. no movement out of any of them. and i can turn the engine over no problem by hand.
the chunks have me worried but what do you guys think?
should i just run the engine or should i scrap it and look at a rebuild or a new engine?
im not working right now so funds are a minimum. cheaper the better.
Andy
#2
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Plastic is probebly timing chain guide. The guide may be broken or it broke and the chain was fixed. If it was fixed then just run it. If not put a new chain and guides in. I have bits of chain still floating around in my runner after the PO broke the chain but no problem yet. That is what the oil screen is for....
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Honestly i agree with with them two on it, being the timing chain guide. I have to replace my timing chain, guide, etc this weekend and as we speak it you can hear it clanking against the cover. I know i'll have plastic in the oil pan as well...(by the way i hear the clanking only at certain rpms ie 1700 rpm) I'm a novice mechanic, so I'm just trying to help you out....good luck.
PS RTV?? What is that?
PS RTV?? What is that?
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#8
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Honestly i agree with with them two on it, being the timing chain guide. I have to replace my timing chain, guide, etc this weekend and as we speak it you can hear it clanking against the cover. I know i'll have plastic in the oil pan as well...(by the way i hear the clanking only at certain rpms ie 1700 rpm) I'm a novice mechanic, so I'm just trying to help you out....good luck.
PS RTV?? What is that?
PS RTV?? What is that?
are you going to pull the pan? if you have any questions pm me, im a pretty novice mechanic and yeah i know a timing chain is a daunting task. But yeah, just ask away!
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Can anyone tell how to pull the oil pan. I read some say that it is easy. That you just have to undo three bolts in the steering to make clearance to drop the pan. Which three bolts? I really don't want to undo the motor mounts and jack the engine up.
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It's 4wd no?
You'll have to either lift the engine or move the front axle to get the pan out. And yeah, it's 3 bolts.
Behind the front axle are two bolts- one on each end that need removed, and one in front of the axle which secures the axle to the front 'lower' crossmember (between the lower control arms). Sounds easy, but it's not. The axle will need to be rotated towards the rear and here's where the issues are: it's heavy and the front driveshafts are attached: you have to be carefull with those- if the joint(s) separate(s), you risk tearing the boots and having issues getting them to re-seat.
Myself, I'd put a floor jack under the axle, remove the 2 bolts that secure the axle to the frame and the 4 bolts that secure the lower crossmember (the one the front of the axle is bolted to) to the left and right lower control arm mounts, then lower the assembly. Watch the front propeller shaft (driveshaft) and make sure it doesn't separate.
I think the "3 bolts in the steering" reference you make is oriented more towards the 2wd trucks where unbolting the idler arm from the frame lets the center link (tie rod to some) drop enough to let the pan drop and clear the pick-up screen.
You'll have to either lift the engine or move the front axle to get the pan out. And yeah, it's 3 bolts.
Behind the front axle are two bolts- one on each end that need removed, and one in front of the axle which secures the axle to the front 'lower' crossmember (between the lower control arms). Sounds easy, but it's not. The axle will need to be rotated towards the rear and here's where the issues are: it's heavy and the front driveshafts are attached: you have to be carefull with those- if the joint(s) separate(s), you risk tearing the boots and having issues getting them to re-seat.
Myself, I'd put a floor jack under the axle, remove the 2 bolts that secure the axle to the frame and the 4 bolts that secure the lower crossmember (the one the front of the axle is bolted to) to the left and right lower control arm mounts, then lower the assembly. Watch the front propeller shaft (driveshaft) and make sure it doesn't separate.
I think the "3 bolts in the steering" reference you make is oriented more towards the 2wd trucks where unbolting the idler arm from the frame lets the center link (tie rod to some) drop enough to let the pan drop and clear the pick-up screen.
Last edited by abecedarian; 02-15-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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