Engine cutting out???
#1
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Engine cutting out???
I've got an 88 4Runner with new 22RE and i've been having problems. It started firing up on 3 cylinders and smoking before the 4th comes in and it happens before I can locate which cylinder isn't firing. Now on the freeway when I step on it in 4th or 5th gear the engine cuts out. If I excelerate very slowly it's ok but when I step on it, it just cuts out but only seems to do it in 4th and 5th????? Could it be the fuel filter or pump?? Please help, losing faith in the runner that I love. Thanks for your time.........TIM
#4
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Turns out I had blown a HG on #4 badly and was leaking in #3 also.
http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1...ebuild/hg1.jpg
If you want to confirm, the easiest way is to do a leak down test. You'll get pressure/bubbles in the radiator.
#5
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The gasket could be blown where it is blowing water out the exhaust. Take each spark plug out and blow some air in each cylinder. You'll probably see some water come out. Also, broken ceramic on a spark plug is a sign of water.
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Thanks guys.........I guess I can't hide from that! So is there a brand you'd recomend for the head gasket or just stick with OEM. Also, how bad would it be to limp around till my next paycheck????? Thanks again for all the help, Tim
#7
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Limp around equal bad news....motor damage. Engnbldr has good kits, as does OEM. But, I like giving engnbldr business. So, I recommend them. Better prices, too. Are you sure now that it's the HG?
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#8
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Definately not positive but I have all the symptoms that everybody is listing in the other posts that end up being head gaskets and I did have a major overheat about 2 months ago (blown lower rad. hose on the freeway).?.. Everything is pretty much brand new on the engine and no codes are comin up.
#9
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Here's a link for EB in case you don't have it: http://www.engnbldr.com/ I've seen great feedback for them.
#10
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Well, when you're sure that's when to start buying parts setting up a machine shop for the head. But, it does sound like the HG. Do you know what you're getting into with that job?
#11
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The OEM head gasket has a good reputation. Engnbldr's "rock auto" gasket has a decent reputation also. The one that I posted had damage due to detonation - not due to a design failure in the gasket. Basically I abused it.
I'd buy from engnbldr.com and replace your timing guides/chain at the same time.
Felpro has a very mixed reputation.. Most people don't like 'em.
How bad would it be to limp around until your next paycheck?
That depends. Generally, not a good idea:
You'll have big expensive problems if/when:
1) You let it sit, it gets a lot of water into a cylinder and then hydrolocks on start. You'll need to rebuild/replace the motor.
2) If you're getting water into the oil pan. Water sits at the bottom of the pan, once you get too much in, it'll get sucked up the sump and pumped to bearings that are expecting oil. Once again - new motor / rebuild time.
3) You overheat it.
Can you drive it and have it bleed a bit of water? Sure... Just as long as 1-3 don't happen.
No special tools required. Have the head looked at by a machine shop before reassembling. It should be perfectly flat.
I'd buy from engnbldr.com and replace your timing guides/chain at the same time.
Felpro has a very mixed reputation.. Most people don't like 'em.
How bad would it be to limp around until your next paycheck?
That depends. Generally, not a good idea:
You'll have big expensive problems if/when:
1) You let it sit, it gets a lot of water into a cylinder and then hydrolocks on start. You'll need to rebuild/replace the motor.
2) If you're getting water into the oil pan. Water sits at the bottom of the pan, once you get too much in, it'll get sucked up the sump and pumped to bearings that are expecting oil. Once again - new motor / rebuild time.
3) You overheat it.
Can you drive it and have it bleed a bit of water? Sure... Just as long as 1-3 don't happen.
No special tools required. Have the head looked at by a machine shop before reassembling. It should be perfectly flat.
#12
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I haven't actually done the HG itself beforew but I put in the engine and Marlin tranny/transfer case so hopefully it wont be much more of a pain than that. What do you think.... time wise or special tools?? Any advice is much appreciated!
#13
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Easy job, IMO. Just lots of wrenching. Labeling where all vacuum hoses and electrical connectors go helped me the first time I ever rebuilt a top end. Plus, putting bolts back where they are supposed to be so you don't lose them or forget where they go. Take as many pics as think you need and more. You'll need a good torque wrench...the ratcheting type makes it easy, but a needle guage will work (that's what I used). Use very good sockets (like craftsman or snap-on, etc.) for high torque applications...especially when removing. Hmmm...a breaker bar is very good. Wobbly extensions are very handy, but not necessary. An extending magnet tool for when you drop nuts or bolts down in the motor at impossible places to reach....very, very handy! Long needle nose pliers (wish I'd had those) for hard to reach places....for things the magnet tool won't pics up, hose clamps, etc.). Spray and soak any connections that look rusty days and days in advance..use PB blaster, IMO. (Your EGR valve may be a real b@#ch to loosen, if rusty) Be aware you may break some bolts. A bolt-grip/bolt-off kit may be needed. Me? I would buy one, leave it wrapped, and return it if you find you don't need it. If you do, you'll be glad to have it on hand. You'll need a Haynes manual and/or copy of the section in the FSM on hand for torque specs, procedure, etc. Hmmm...what else? What am I forgetting? OH! Yeah, a good buddy will help in more ways than one....if he/she isn't stoned or drinking all your beer. If that's the case, he/she will only be good for kicking in the shin and blaming for screw ups.
Do some reading on YT here about others having done it to try and avoid problems and gain a knowledge base. Still, it's a pretty straight forward job, and if you plan it well....two or three days. That's including the time at the maching shop, but not potential mishaps. Any help you need you know you can find here, though. Lastly, my fingers crossed you have a good, trusted maching shop around?
Do some reading on YT here about others having done it to try and avoid problems and gain a knowledge base. Still, it's a pretty straight forward job, and if you plan it well....two or three days. That's including the time at the maching shop, but not potential mishaps. Any help you need you know you can find here, though. Lastly, my fingers crossed you have a good, trusted maching shop around?
Last edited by thook; 02-02-2007 at 09:28 AM.
#14
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It was the head gasket, #4 cylinder (Felpro Crap). Have the head checked and puting her back together Mon........ I'll let you know how it goes, thanks again for the help!
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Dang she runs good...... had to mill the head .05 but nothing was cracked...... threw in the LC Eng. flow matched intake since she was apart... Mmmm good change. Thanks for all your help, my baby is back and then some!
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