engine cranks, cam does not spin
08-15-2013, 06:10 PM
#1
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engine cranks, cam does not spin
I'm guessing the engine builder screwed up the woodruff key and 22k miles later, this is what I get. Cherry on top of all the problems from this builder (San Diego Toyota "specialist" shop)
Manual says to pull the head to get to it. I'm between garages, any shortcuts? Seems like it'll be almost as cheap just to rebuild it again, jeez...
How concerned should I be with the condition of the crank or oil pump?
Manual says to pull the head to get to it. I'm between garages, any shortcuts? Seems like it'll be almost as cheap just to rebuild it again, jeez...
How concerned should I be with the condition of the crank or oil pump?
Last edited by edeslaur; 08-15-2013 at 07:10 PM.
08-15-2013, 07:25 PM
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To see the key for the cam you just need to take of the valve cover. Never did that with a turbo. Should be 4 bolts and a couple wires and a vac or 2. From therd you sjould bd able to have someone crank it while you watch the chain. Heads up you will spray oil
08-15-2013, 07:35 PM
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The crank side is spinning loose. Engine cranks over, but the cam/chain does not move (pulled the valve cover and checked). Chain is tight, double-roller unit.
Guessing the woodruff key on the crank gear is broken.
I was idling across the parking lot when it died.
Guessing the woodruff key on the crank gear is broken.
I was idling across the parking lot when it died.
08-15-2013, 07:42 PM
#7
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The only thing that turns the cam is the the distributor drive gear at the front of the cam. There is no woodruff key in the drive gear, just a pin. A person really can't mess it up on install. It could also be you broke the roll pin in the distributor and the distributor gear is preventing the drive gear from turning...
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08-15-2013, 07:52 PM
#8
[QUOTE=snobdds;52108631] The only thing that turns the cam is the the distributor drive gear at the front of the cam. [QUOTE]
Don't you have that backwards??? The cam is driven by the timing chain which is driven by the crank. The gear on the front of the camshaft is what drives the distributor gear.
If the engine is turning over, but the chain isn't moving and therefore the cam and distributor aren't turning either, then the problem is down at the crank.
Don't you have that backwards??? The cam is driven by the timing chain which is driven by the crank. The gear on the front of the camshaft is what drives the distributor gear.
If the engine is turning over, but the chain isn't moving and therefore the cam and distributor aren't turning either, then the problem is down at the crank.
08-15-2013, 07:54 PM
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The cam and cam gear are not turning when the engine is cranked. If the cam and cam gear do not turn, the distributor does not turn (and it does not).
The gear on the crank is obviously not doing its job. According to my manual, it has a woodruff key. I'm guessing that it's busted.
Based on that... what's the easiest way to fix it?
The gear on the crank is obviously not doing its job. According to my manual, it has a woodruff key. I'm guessing that it's busted.
Based on that... what's the easiest way to fix it?
Last edited by edeslaur; 08-15-2013 at 07:58 PM.
08-15-2013, 08:09 PM
#10
Pull the timing cover. fsm says to pull the head first, but it can be done without. There is a bolt that goes through the head and into the timing cover. It's hidden under a pool of oil so remove it before u drive yourself crazy trying to break the cover loose!
08-15-2013, 08:24 PM
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Ok, I'm officially, probably, screwed:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
CAUTION: The 22R line of engines are an interference style engine.
Meaning if the valves are open when a piston is in the up position they will collide.
Therefore you must be VERY careful and keep the cam gear and crank perfectly aligned.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
CAUTION: The 22R line of engines are an interference style engine.
Meaning if the valves are open when a piston is in the up position they will collide.
Therefore you must be VERY careful and keep the cam gear and crank perfectly aligned.
08-15-2013, 08:27 PM
#15
It sucks when you have to remove your front diff to gain access to where you can pull the oil pan. You can still do it if you have all the tools and a remote power supply to run your impact gun, but it's still gonna suck doing it on the side of the road. Don't stick your legs out too far when you're crawling around under the truck!
08-15-2013, 10:16 PM
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Mine's a turbo with dished pistons, so I may be OK. Checking on the RTE board if they feel it's a concern. I'm more ready to throw in a new motor, probably from Putney's or LCE, just so I don't have to worry about things like this happening 200 miles from civilization.
08-15-2013, 10:18 PM
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Oh, and DOA since they're moving to AZ. I have their turbo cam in here, and it's been great. Much better than the Crane/TRD/Toyota Stage II that was in there.
