kmd1776

hey everyone... got a 93 pickup 3.0 5speed. just did a diagonstics on my engine today (had a check engine light) and this is what i got.

14- ignition signal

25-air fuel ratio lean

now that i have these codes... what do i have to do to fix these? im assuming 25 is O2 sensor bad, and maybe 14 just need a tune up?? cap, rotor, wires and plugs?? let me know what u think!! thanks in advance!!

kmd1776

no one??? come on i know someone else had to of gotten these codes before hahaha

toytech76

ignore the 14. they all show that code. The 25 could be your o2 sensor or it would be burned valves, could be several things. Go to a shop that can hook up a scan tool to watch o2 sensor voltages. Then you will be able to tell if its working correctly or not

kmd1776

ok looked around some more and found a FSM that someone posted online. this is what i found out

CEL 14-
cause:
1) IGF singal from ignitor is not input to ECM for 4 consecutive ignition.

problem:
1) open or short in IGF or IGT circuit from igniter to ECM
2) igniter
3) ECM

CEL 25-
cause:
1) oxygen sensor output is less then 0.45 V for at least 90 secs. when oxygen sensor is warmed up.
2) when the air-fuel compensation value fluctuates more then 20% from the ECM set range within 60 secs. period while driving at 9 mph or more at coolant temp of 158 degrees F or above.

Problem:
1) Engine ground bolt loose.
2) open in E1 circuit
3) Open in injector circuit
4) fuel line pressure (injector blockage, ect.)
5) open or short in oxygen sensor circuit
6) oxygen sensor
7) ignition system
8) engine coolant temp. sensor
9) volume air flow meter (air intake)
10) ECM

this now gives me a start at least, but not knowledgeable about toyotas at all, just got this truck and dont know much about it at all, even though i do have a very good mechanical backround on other cars. so any help to point me in the right direction at all would be great. like acronyms... ECM? IGF? IGT?

thanks again, really broke and cant afford to bring this to a shop (damn college )

kmd1776

thanks toytech....i guess ill start with that. i dont know if code 14 has anything to do with this problem, but i can almost never start my truck on the first turn of the key. always takes me a 2nd try to get it started.

881stGenRunner

i had code 14 and the truck would just crank and crank without firing and it turned out to be my ignitor.

toytech76

yah like I said, ignore the 14. You will be money ahead having a shop look at it rather that throwing parts at it that may or may not fix it

kmd1776

ok just curious what is an ignitor? never heard of that before. is it the coil??

881stGenRunner

here is my thread on my ignitor, it is different from yours, but only slightly.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-14-a-131241/
This is the ignitor that is compatable with your truck...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...spagenameZWD1V

yotaman8819

my code is for the egr anyone have any clues on fixing it

yotaman8819

oh sorry its a 95 4runner 3.0 v6

kmd1776

remove the egr system completly

honestly i dont know, but from what i hear, all it does is send air from the exhaust back into the intake to help heat up the engine quicker with warm air.... its not needed at all as far as i know... but i could be wrong

yotaman8819

honestly im just sick of the check engine light being on and i want everything to work right on my truck so idk wut to do

kmd1776

hey just found this, not based off a toyota engine, but it seems to be a good general description on what is your problem.....

Technically is the EGR system not working a problem... not really... not as long as your car runs just like it did before.
Basically, mechanics will always go with the easy fix, being the EGR valve if you have the EGR code in the computer.
BUT... and the BIG BUT, is that if you read in the service manual it says... replacing the EGR valve may NOT solve the problem and relieve the service engine soon condition.

What happens is that if there is a VACUUM leak in a hose anywhere from the EGR valve to the EGR solenoid that could cause the code. Also, the EGR solenoid could be bad. It is the valve which regulates how much vacuum gets to the EGR valve itself, basically it controls how much the EGR valve opens.

In one of my cars case, the EGR solenoid was bad, but the code would only come on when I cruise for extended periods of time at the same throttle, lets say one minute. I did not want to pay a whopping 80 dollars for a measly little EGR solenoid so I just put up with the light whenever I'm on long traveling.

If you speak to a mechanic they will tell you it's imperative that the EGR system work correctly, becuase in some cases it can cause knocking and pinging and some other sorts of problems, but in most cases it makes no difference. I've known people to run tens of thousands of miles without the EGR system working and their cars work just fine, my Fiero included. It has run over 40,000 miles with the sytem inoperational and at 126,000 miles on the original engine it still runs great. Just a tidbit of info.

The real reasons I have left it inoperational is because the 80 dollar solenoid, and the fact that Fieros have a notorious problem with the hose that goes from the EGR valve to the INTAKE plenum. IT CRACKS and sucks in additional air and then give you a HIGH IDLE condition. That's not good, I've changed the hose twice in 4 years and this last time I just plugged everything and didn't get another one.

I hope this clears up any confusion.
By the way, you should tell them to TEST the EGR VALVE first. If you have a vacuum pump, or they I should say is to apply vacuum to the valve, if the valve opens and stays open, then the valve is good. But if it opens and then loses vacuum, or simply just does not open at all as vacuum is applied, the valve is bad. It should be checked first to VERIFY that that is the problem. If that is not it, then their could be a broken or leaky vacuum hose or an inoperational EGR solenoid. The vacuum piping can be tested the same way with a vacuum pump. Basically the piping can be tested by testing the valve THROUGH the piping by disconnecting the piping at the EGR solenoid, only after testing the valve to make sure you don't misdiagnose.
If both the tubing and the EGR valve are OK then the solenoid is bad. Don't let them take your for a bad ride, make sure they test the valve and the tubing first.
I know I put out a lot of information, but I'm just trying to explain it as simply as I can with everything you need to know to KNOW what you are talking about

tc

I had those same codes Friday, the CEL went out yesterday. Drive it a while and see if it resets.

kmd1776

i know for mine, you pull the EFI relay out for about a minute and it clears all codes.

yotaman8819

my light has been on for 2 years my power comes and goes one minute the motor will have plenty of power then seconds later it goes away my light used to go off 1 or 2 times every few months but it hasnt in the past year i tried to reset the codes by removing the efi fuse but the check engine light comes back on in a day or two and my motor is pinging bad when im barely touching the gas