KnightFiyah

I used the metal paperclip to check for any codes, and the only one that I get is Code 14. It looks like this is related somehow to the ignition..

Is this a common code for a 2nd gen or should I look into replacing/fixing something?

scope103

well, if you don't fix it, you won't be able to renew your registration (you'll fail Smog).

The good news is that your rig is still running, so the igniter isn't dead. The bad news is that the timing advance is probably all messed up. For how it works, http://www.autoshop101.com/ / technical articles / ignition system.

First, I would remove the EFI fuse for 30 seconds and then put it back, to reset the stored codes. Drive for a few miles to see if code 14 returns. Then I'd check through all the wiring from the igniter to the ECM.

KnightFiyah

What exactly am I looking for in the wiring? Damage?

scope103

What does Code 14 mean? http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/diagnosi.pdf "IGF signal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignitions." The ECM sends the IGT signal to the igniter to cause it to fire the coil, then the igniter sends back the IGF signal to confirm it worked. It sounds like your igniter is actually working (the plugs are firing), so all that is missing is the IGF back to the ECM. Your igniter could be bad (most likely), but maybe you're lucky and there's just a broken wire.

My schematic shows IGF is Black-Yellow, IGT Black-Blue.

The FSM doesn't give a direct test for the igniter, so in the absence of a visible broken wire, I think my next step is to replace the igniter. http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...621-12050.html

abecedarian

First off, does the CEL turn on when the engine is running?
If not, pull the EFI fuse for a minute or so and clear the trouble codes.

14 is a "sticky" code: if at some time there was a situation that caused the IGF signal to be lost long enough for the ECU to register the code, the code will be stored until the ECU is reset. It does not necessarily mean you have a current problem, unless of course you reset the ECU and the CEL comes on and this is a code shown.

Water can sometimes affect igniter signals enough to throw a code like this. Sometimes people steam clean their engines with the engine running; have you done this recently?
A bad distributor cap to distributor seal (at high humidity) or poorly connected coil-to-distributor high-tension lead, old distributor cap or old rotor can do this too, particularly at high rpms.

Before assuming the worst, I would suggest checking the connectors to the igniter and ignition coil as well as to the ECU. Look for any signs of corrosion and verify the terminals are well seated in their plugs. These trucks can bounce around a lot and their connectors and wiring aren't very well supported. Any corrosion should be cleaned up if possible, and dielectric grease should be applied to prevent moisture from intruding into the connection. Pull and push on each individual wire in the plugs to make sure they are well secured and if any pull out there is usually a small "tab" sticking out off the back of the crimped terminal which is what locks the terminal in the connector body. You can [carefully] bend this tab out just a little to get it to more securely lock in the connector.

KnightFiyah

Yeah the igniter is definitely still working, obviously haha. I do hear some weird shaking sound near the end of the ignition when I'm starting the car though (just before it starts I hear it), although I don't know if thats relevant or not.

I looked through my dad's old repair histories with the car since like 2002 and it looks like they've all noted that the car has had torn cv boots, may need a new ignitor in the future, and a new windshield washer pump...all that for like a decade.

I'll check the wiring, reset my trouble codes, then replace my igniter if it persists. Thanks for the info man.

Nah, the CEL isn't on at all when the engine is running. But yeah, like I said above I'll take your advice and reset the codes just to be sure. Who knows...maybe another code will pop up haha.

I haven't ever steam cleaned my engine...but now that you mention it the amount of grease and dirt buildup on my engine is enough to make me want to do it now haha. Any suggestions on steam cleaners to handle this kind of job?

scope103

Working on a dirty engine is really miserable. And, of course, it feeds on itself; a thin film of oil gets coated with dust, then it picks up sand, then you can't see the leak anymore so more oil and grease joins the party, you're too disgusted to touch it so no work gets done ...

I use spray-on engine degreaser and a garden hose. A true "steam" cleaner is much more environmentally responsible, but the higher pressure means you risk driving water where it isn't supposed to go. You should always cover up anything electrical, but how can you do that? There are connectors all over the place! So what I recommend is use a paper towel (or rag, or shovel, ...) to get as much crap off as you can. Then use degreaser and a garden hose aimed specifically at the greasy spot, keeping it away from obvious electrical stuff (like the distributor.)

KnightFiyah

I'm unfamiliar with where something like the distributor would be on the 3VZE layout. I can probably guess where most of the electrical parts I should stay away from are, but are there any "essentials" you could point out for me so I don't go messing up any circuitry? If I don't feel comfortable spraying water under the hood, I might go for spraying the degreaser and then just using a damp rag to wipe everything down. It's not as powerful, but would it also get the job done, with some effort?

scope103

Beats me. Last time I used my method I still got a code 26 (too rich) for a few minutes. So I must have dripped some water onto the O2 sensor connection. Who knows?

If you're uncomfortable with it, don't do it.

abecedarian

I'm not telling. HAHA!