jeetS

Even with the key out. My truck has the delay where when you turn the truck off the windows work for about 60 seconds or so unless you open the door. then they are supposed to turn off immediately.

Well mine stopped doing this. They are always working… and its draining my battery.

I am not a complete rookie when it comes to wiring but I can't figure out what would cause this


please help

oldblue

is it both windows or just the driver/passenger?

yotaman85

the PO probly wired them the wrong way to direct power. check the wiring.

jeetS

both windows, and both switches work too.

If the PO wired them wrong, why would they work properly for the last year I've had the truck + however long he had it done for and then all of a sudden stop working….?

I think incorrect wiring is not the problem…

more like a faulty relay that is not switching the power off after the set time or however that system works...

justin_4runner

i second bad relay, but what one im not sure of...

yotaman85

oops. i must have missed where you siad its a new problem..

jeetS

no problem

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Does anything else that shouldn't be working? I had a car like this one time and it was the ignition switch was acting like it was in ACC mode, changed it out and all was fine. I couldn't find the wiring diagram for the 86 so I got the 88, shouldn't be to different

scope103

Do the door locks work (not manually, but with the switch)? The Door lock ECU (down by the driver's left leg) provides the power to the power windows (so that the timer can shut off when you open the door). They are different circuits inside the ECU, but if the door locks don't time out I'd suspect a problem with the ECU.

If you lower the window part way, does it stop? If so, you're probably not putting power to the motor with the key out. And I would be surprised that the door lock ECU alone, with a stuck timer, would draw enough power to run down the battery (but if something's broken, who knows what power it's drawing?)

As a quick-and-dirty, put an ammeter on the battery lead, to measure your "parasitic" current drain with the key off. If it's more than 500ma, you've got a problem somewhere. (Dome light on?) If less than 500ma, you may have a bad battery, as you should be able to put out 500ma for several weeks before noticing it.

jeetS

yes the door lock switch is working fine. They are always supposed to have power to them…

Does what stop if the window is lowered part way?

does a typical multimeter have a ammeter built into it? I am not familiar with that.

Thanks!

jeetS

I just reconnected one of the main grounds in the engine bay (i was sourcing some other issues) and now it is working correctly

not sure how that works but….

matstaley

your time delay is created by a r/c circuit in parallel with the coil on the relay. (resistor/capacitor) The time delay is set by the charge in the capacitor slowly discharging across the resistor and remaining high enough to keep the relay energized for the calculated amount of time. if the relay contacts stay closed all of the time then you have a short somewhere in that controller. Remember that opening the door should open this circuit as well and remove power from the circuit. if this is not happening then possibly those relay contacts are welded closed? hard to say without seeing and troubleshooting the circuit myself.

jeetS

Thanks for explaining that! I wondered how that system worked! Now how does that fit in with that ground wire in the above post. Cause its working great now….

matstaley

Hard to say for sure. Grounds are little gremlins. Don't get them wet.

farmerj

if you don't have the correct ground to drain the capacitor providing the timer circuit, it will find another ground and bad things happen that aren't supposed.

Electricity finds the path of LEAST resistance. It's always there, somewhere. Those grounds straps are put in for just that reason.

That's why replacing the ground strap you did fixed it.

matstaley

What he said

jeetS

Thanks guys.

I now have a much clearer understanding!