EGR code 71 - Page 2

js9924 · 05-05-2008, 09:20 PM

Heres what you do. Take a 10k ohm resistor and push it into the connector that goes to the temp sensor. Cover it with some electrical tape or heat shrink or something and your code should go away. This will trick the ECU into getting a "good" reading form the sensor.

904_runner · 05-05-2008, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex 400

so did most of the non-california trucks come with the plug that shorts out the wire? Also, does shorting the wire make the computer think it's at the right temp? How does this sound for a plan? Cut the wires. strip it back a little, twist together and then put a small bit of heat shrink on it and then cover it up with the stock heat shield. how 'bout it?

Yes, i think most if not all non-california trucks came with that plug. Shorting the wire makes the computer think its at the right temp, so there should be no more CEL after that. That is if it is your sensor that is bad. If the sensor is currently fine, then it will not change anything.

Yes i was told if you twist the wires together it will provide the same effect as having the cap. Shoot, next time you at a pick n' pull just grab the cap and then you can remove the sensor! One less thing in the engine bay

!

Alex 400 · 05-05-2008, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 904_runner

Yes, i think most if not all non-california trucks came with that plug. Shorting the wire makes the computer think its at the right temp, so there should be no more CEL after that. That is if it is your sensor that is bad. If the sensor is currently fine, then it will not change anything.

Yes i was told if you twist the wires together it will provide the same effect as having the cap. Shoot, next time you at a pick n' pull just grab the cap and then you can remove the sensor! One less thing in the engine bay

!

ok makes sense. Yeah if i get the plug i could just have my dad (hydraulic boat steering salesman, etc.) bring me a plug to plug the hole where the sensor was before. hmmm i like where this is going.

904_runner · 05-05-2008, 10:36 PM

If you take the sensor out, there is no need to plug the hole.

Alex 400 · 05-05-2008, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 904_runner

If you take the sensor out, there is no need to plug the hole.

isn't the sensor screwed into the area where there is exhaust so that it can get a temp reading? if i take it out it would leak exhaust, wouldn't it?

904_runner · 05-05-2008, 10:51 PM

No, it just screws into the metal, it doesn't actually go through. I think it just detects the temperature of the metal, not the actual gases!

Alex 400 · 05-06-2008, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 904_runner

No, it just screws into the metal, it doesn't actually go through. I think it just detects the temperature of the metal, not the actual gases!

well thats handy! Thanks!

l3fty · 05-09-2008, 07:38 PM

Seems I spoke to soon. My CEL came back on.

So I've got a question on this whole thing. In the FSM when it talks about testing the EGR system. Page EG2-149 section 5. If I'm not getting any vacuum with the engine warm and rpm's at 3,500. What part does that indicate is bad? The VSV or Vacuum modulator?

Oh and wouldn't tricking the ecu into thinking that it's getting enough recycled gas harm performance and possibly reduce gas mileage? As opposed to fixing it?

4Crawler · 05-09-2008, 08:14 PM

The VSV sends vacuum to the modulator, the modulator passes it to the EGR. Might be as simple as a clogged vacuum line.

05-05-2008, 09:20 PM	#26 (permalink)
js9924 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Tampa, Fl Posts: 183	Heres what you do. Take a 10k ohm resistor and push it into the connector that goes to the temp sensor. Cover it with some electrical tape or heat shrink or something and your code should go away. This will trick the ECU into getting a "good" reading form the sensor. __________________ '94 T100 3.0 My mods page: http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/dmb

05-09-2008, 07:38 PM	#33 (permalink)
l3fty Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: YL Ca. Posts: 12	Seems I spoke to soon. My CEL came back on. So I've got a question on this whole thing. In the FSM when it talks about testing the EGR system. Page EG2-149 section 5. If I'm not getting any vacuum with the engine warm and rpm's at 3,500. What part does that indicate is bad? The VSV or Vacuum modulator? Oh and wouldn't tricking the ecu into thinking that it's getting enough recycled gas harm performance and possibly reduce gas mileage? As opposed to fixing it? __________________ '93 4Runner 3vze A/T 2wd 175k Yeah it's 2wd but it's good for hauling my tools around.

05-09-2008, 08:14 PM	#34 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 6,213	The VSV sends vacuum to the modulator, the modulator passes it to the EGR. Might be as simple as a clogged vacuum line. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs. r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

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