EFI system, no start
10-27-2016, 01:55 PM
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EFI system, no start
Ok this is my first post on this forum so bare with me.
I have a 94 Toyota Pickup with the 4 cyl 22re engine fuel injected. I am having trouble with a no start as the title states and am in need of some advice.
I have replaced fuel pump and have plenty of fuel pressure. 12v tested at FP during cranking. I have 36psi fuel pressure at Cold Start Injector(CSI). I have replaced Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) Relay and fuse and both are getting power and not blowing. I have spark on all four plugs and no problem with truck turning over, because I just replaced starter today. I traced leads from each injector into factory spliced location in harness where power goes from four into two wires that then go into ECU in passenger kick panelnof cab. All four injectors have 12v to them when key is in on position and in start position aswell.
I am not not getting any fuel through injectors, nor am I getting power to the CSI or even to the thermal injector starter(brown colored plug on left side below thermostat housing). I am thinking it's either the igniter issue or possibly my ECU because I have fuel and spark and power to all components needed, just wanted some advice before I started taking the upper intake manifold off to get to injectors, also read thread about a possible ignition switch issue.
I did get truck Rick to run by putting power to CSI while cranking just to make sure truck would run, it did.
Any advice is welcomed and would love to hear what possible next steps would be other than replacing ECU, Igniter or Ignition.
I have a 94 Toyota Pickup with the 4 cyl 22re engine fuel injected. I am having trouble with a no start as the title states and am in need of some advice.
I have replaced fuel pump and have plenty of fuel pressure. 12v tested at FP during cranking. I have 36psi fuel pressure at Cold Start Injector(CSI). I have replaced Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) Relay and fuse and both are getting power and not blowing. I have spark on all four plugs and no problem with truck turning over, because I just replaced starter today. I traced leads from each injector into factory spliced location in harness where power goes from four into two wires that then go into ECU in passenger kick panelnof cab. All four injectors have 12v to them when key is in on position and in start position aswell.
I am not not getting any fuel through injectors, nor am I getting power to the CSI or even to the thermal injector starter(brown colored plug on left side below thermostat housing). I am thinking it's either the igniter issue or possibly my ECU because I have fuel and spark and power to all components needed, just wanted some advice before I started taking the upper intake manifold off to get to injectors, also read thread about a possible ignition switch issue.
I did get truck Rick to run by putting power to CSI while cranking just to make sure truck would run, it did.
Any advice is welcomed and would love to hear what possible next steps would be other than replacing ECU, Igniter or Ignition.
10-27-2016, 02:23 PM
#2
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I'd probably start troubleshooting the distributor to igniter circuit and the igniter. I wouldn't think you would get spark without the ignition functioning ok but may be wrong about that. I can't remember the procedure for testing the output signal from the igniter to the ecm but a pass there would eliminate the need to test upstream of it. Start with the igniter unless the distributor plug circuit is just a piece of cake. I can't remember but I think it's a pretty easy test. Do a search on these tests and let me know if you can't find anything. I'll find it for you.
10-28-2016, 09:26 AM
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I don't know a lot about the 22re, but I do know the injector plugs are easily accessible. I'd start with a "noid" light or equivalent. With keyon, there is continuous 12v to one lead, and the ECU grounds the other to open the injector. All the injectors open at the same time (they are not timed to each cylinder's cycle). You can buy a noid light, but mostly what you're paying for is the set of connectors. If you have any electrical talent, you can build your own noid light with an LED and 10k resistor (remember that LEDs are polarized; you want the positive lead to battery +, and the negative lead to the injector connector to detect the ground signal from the ECU).
If the truck runs (even a little) on the CSI, the ignition is probably close-to-okay. (Your CSI test is the safer equivalent to the starting-fluid trick.)
If the IGF signal from the igniter doesn't make it to the ECU, the ECU shuts down the igniters after a few seconds (to avoid pumping unburned fuel into the hot exhaust system). But this resets with key-off, so even if your IGF is dead it should start and run for a few seconds (or minutes). Plus, missing IGF throws code 14. (I assume you have no codes.) For what it's worth, testing the IGF signal is pretty difficult. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gniter-287857/
If the truck runs (even a little) on the CSI, the ignition is probably close-to-okay. (Your CSI test is the safer equivalent to the starting-fluid trick.)
If the IGF signal from the igniter doesn't make it to the ECU, the ECU shuts down the igniters after a few seconds (to avoid pumping unburned fuel into the hot exhaust system). But this resets with key-off, so even if your IGF is dead it should start and run for a few seconds (or minutes). Plus, missing IGF throws code 14. (I assume you have no codes.) For what it's worth, testing the IGF signal is pretty difficult. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...gniter-287857/
10-28-2016, 10:48 AM
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Check the wiring from the injectors to the ECU by doing the following....
Go to page EG1-141 (Manual transmission) or EG1-159 (Automatic transmission) or EG1-123 (2WD) of this link...
http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...27troubles.pdf
Pages EG1-xxx from above shows you the ECU pinouts. Find ECU terminals #10 (white wire with red stripe) and #20 (white wire). With the ignition on, you should show positive batt voltage at those terminals when backprobing with your multimeter. (black wire of multimeter on ground, red wire backprobing terminal with terminal connected to ECU)
To check for pulse, you can either use a computer safe test light to backprobe terminals #10 and #20 (test light wire on batt positive, probe tip on terminals #10 and #20), Or make your own noid light as scope said above to check at the injector connector. You can use a 12v 168 bulb to make your own noid light.
Go to page EG1-141 (Manual transmission) or EG1-159 (Automatic transmission) or EG1-123 (2WD) of this link...
http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...27troubles.pdf
Pages EG1-xxx from above shows you the ECU pinouts. Find ECU terminals #10 (white wire with red stripe) and #20 (white wire). With the ignition on, you should show positive batt voltage at those terminals when backprobing with your multimeter. (black wire of multimeter on ground, red wire backprobing terminal with terminal connected to ECU)
To check for pulse, you can either use a computer safe test light to backprobe terminals #10 and #20 (test light wire on batt positive, probe tip on terminals #10 and #20), Or make your own noid light as scope said above to check at the injector connector. You can use a 12v 168 bulb to make your own noid light.
