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In the 88 manual FI-77 the VSV in question is the high temp line pressure up system. When the black- yellow stripe is traced it goes to the STA pin on the ecu.
I showed no continuity from the plug to the pin. Will try and determine if the plug connector or the wire itself is faulty next.
there is one yard with a few 22re engines up in Wa. I can go hit up today. That's where I got the CStemp sensor.
I also picked up a new gauge and rechecked the FP at the CSI. 20psi.
bummer.
so is it worth buying a higher end pump hoping it'll last longer than the $20-$30 or just figure on replacing it every year and buy 3 for < $20?
Typo? B-y to the Fpu pin at the ECU, not Sta. Upper left corner of the central plug.. it actually says "EPU" on the pinout map in the wiring section and gave me a good giggle.
Run the relief valve test for the fuel pump, pinch off the return line after the regulator, if the pressure comes up over 45 psi it's not a pump issue but the regulator. Could be something holding open the regulator or the relief valve on the pump. We know quality control isn't what it used to be, so if your source a newer (read as: cheap) pump give it a good going over for manufacturing debris and such before you put it in.
As always there is the "you can't break it if it's already non functional". Try reverse flowing through the regulator and cycling the diaphragm from vacuum to pressure.
As always there is the "you can't break it if it's already non functional". Try reverse flowing through the regulator and cycling the diaphragm from vacuum to pressure.
that assumes that the FPR is broken. if the "pinch test" shows pressure rising to 45psi or higher, than i agree, the FPR has failed and the pump is probably good. but if the "pinch test" results in no increase in fuel pressure, the FPR is likely good, and the pump has failed.
Typo? B-y to the Fpu pin at the ECU, not Sta. Upper left corner of the central plug.. it actually says "EPU" on the pinout map in the wiring section and gave me a good giggle.
You can still giggle but no more dyslexic jokes. "Must been that last bowl" are still in play however.
It was not STA but iGt. my thousand words.
Blk/yel
As for the 'pinch test' I'll get there. first I want to check the switches from the 'yard' out and see if any will function to the specs on
FI-77. None of them are the split port design of my original and as shown in on FI-77, so its just wishful hoping till then.
Then if that winds up yet another rabbit hole I'll try the re-route the vac line route.
but to the current issue...
I say STA you say EPU the picture says Iget2 %^*&
SO as it stands new (used) CST switch, EGR vac modulator,
continuity issue from what FI-77 (FI2719) shows as Fpu but the photo shows as iGt.
I guess it could be the plug contacts despite the fact I sprayed no residue contact cleaner in them.(it's made for this very situation)
I'd much rather put a new plug on than run a new wire.
Yes I'm procrastinating now.
that assumes that the FPR is broken. if the "pinch test" shows pressure rising to 45psi or higher, than i agree, the FPR has failed and the pump is probably good. but if the "pinch test" results in no increase in fuel pressure, the FPR is likely good, and the pump has failed.
wally
Thanks Wally, if it was not clear to you what I was saying it probably was murky for others too.
I didn't intend to insult ya, you didn't transpose the FSM did you?
Here is the pinout given in the wiring section. It might have typographical problems but it's a little clearer to follow I think, with the RTE and RE superimposed (?)
I got waylaid and side tracked so I have to go reread the update. Just know I wanted to put that image up.
in the photo above its the upper row, sixth one from the left. The wire color codes aren't exactly unique.
No.... The wire I started out tracing at the plug was black with a yellow strip...
Thats the top section (re) bottom row- third from the left IGt... no? not it!
Not that I'm not not it on a happier note, One of the VSV's I scored IS the correct configuration and clearly opens with 12v applied and has the filter still on it.
On the other hand it connects to the not STA not B2E3po E1@$#%$^ but IGT... Isn't that connected to an idle circuit?
Okay IFU cause it is Fpu.
Continuity says so.
So long IGt and thank goodness I just messed up instead of something being broke...
I haven't fired it up yet I have to swap connectors for the 'other' plug first. It's the right shape but its brown.
I do have a fresh set of NGK V's gapped @ .034 ready to go in but want to test the VSV and EGR vac modulator and maybe the pinch test first.
But first I another old bench top lathe calling. to close and too cool to pass on.
Swapped switch. No joy.
will hook up and retest FP and the return line but I now I have an old (1923) lathe sitting in the bed and its cramping access to the tank so actually pulling the FPump may take a day or three.
move junk, make space, rearrange and sort it out.
hooked the pressure gauge back up to test the return line but when I hit the switch it registered 35psi and held it for over five minutes after turning it off.
Swap out year old plugs next.
I was scanning over this thread and it sounded all too familiar to me. Now I may have missed it but did you do a cylinder cut out test. By that I mean start it up, get it up to a sustainable rpm if it won't idle for, say, 5 minutes and pull your plug wires off, either at the distributor or at the plugs, one at a time and listen for a change in RPM. If you pull one off and nothing changes, you have a dead cylinder, which could be caused by a faulty plug, wire, or injector.
When I first bought my 89 3VZE 4Runner for $300. It ran a lot like yours is but a little worse. It was almost undriveable. The PO had screwed up a bunch of stuff trying to fix it and gave up. I fixed what he had messed up and got it running about like yours. Same symptoms. I did probably 20 tests and replaced several parts (I was just learning about the engine then). Finally, I thought about the test that I always performed first on the diesel tractors that I worked on, which was done via a laptop. When I started pulling wires off, I was astounded to find that three of them would make no change to the rpm at all when removed. The other three would just about kill the engine when they were removed. I was making 20 mile drives on only three cylinders. The fact that it would even run on half of it's cylinders made me love these trucks even more. I replaced the injectors and have never looked back. Runs perfect now even with 220,000 miles on it.
Again, I may have scanned over where you have already tried this but if you haven't, try it. It only takes a minute and if your lucky, you won't even get one shock. I got two.
Thanks for sharing that. I keep wanting to use my years of non- EFI problem solving skills and reasoning but I'm not in Kansas anymore.
I have not tried pulling plug wires since replacing them(the plugs) I will do that again and then I thought I'd go over whats been checked and what hasn't and try to get a fresh 'way point' now that we're nearly to page 5.
Last night I was thinking the next step was run through the ECU diagnostic tests... getting it to just run at idle shouldn't be this difficult.
Last edited by Step Side 88; 01-20-2017 at 09:19 AM.
Have we completely ruled out a cracked or detached vacuum line? That is the cause of many low idle issues. Vacuum lines are succeptible to failure during freezing weather. Just a thought.
I can't say completely ruled out. But I've searched a number of times with no luck yet. Probably has something to do with keeping it running long enough to really keep looking though.
on a side note is there a recommended starting point for the idle screw?
like an old AFB carb starts a 1 1/4 turns out and then fine tune from there.
Also how critical is the surface finish of that screw? Any corrosion or wear issues I need to be aware of?
Last edited by Step Side 88; 01-20-2017 at 07:07 AM.
So far the most (only?) positive result was unsticking the EGR valve.
He confirms there isn't vacuum applied at idle via the E (EGR port) on the throttle body. And the temperature valve was working also. So we/I didn't inquire how the modulator swap went. It was no change correct?
I'm still concerned about that EGR valve it's self. Because of a weak or broken spring. It seems to open way to easy. Didn't you say you could blow it open? Was that manually applying (blow through) or shop air supplied? It was something like 4psi it was opening at, and you can "play it like a kazoo" wasn't it?
We haven't cracked open the exhaust system after the o2 sensor I think either to rule out a failing converter. Not really thinking it's the normal blockage problem, which would choke the engine out and get worse with higher flow/RPM, but more along the lines of enough back pressure in the exhaust to force the EGR valve open. I know on the RTE we see back pressure in excess of 20 psi inside of the exhaust manifold before the turbo and that valve doesn't/shouldn't get forced open.
Maybe do the soda can block off plate (smallish piece of aluminum wedged between the gasket and plenum). If nothing else that will atleast break my "tunnel vision" on that system.
PS. How did those plugs look, have you changed those out already?
01-16-2017, 09:04 AM
