Step Side 88

If you meant the part about 'computer states' in your hesitation I'm glad you left it.
Some of us who are trying to sort out what is usually covered in a program course need some of those basic outlines to fill in the blanks.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

not in my '87. if i want to go 65, RsPM are right around 3000.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks Wally,

I had to hunt it down but caught it in the 95 FSM . EGR test drive patterns. Eg1-123. It's active in the 50-60mph range in "high" (5th, or D)

I'll try to get back on topic now p

Step Side 88

Clearly I need a tach. I have an old (60's) Sears diagnostic tach/dwell 6 and 8 I inherited from my uncle that I guess if I double the readings for a V8 gives me something.
If nothing else impedance to dive into the dash and sort it out. Maybe rearrange it with a little old school looking tach and gauges.
I can't justify doing to much to it mechanically cause with the column automatic its a great parts getter trash hauler easy to drive in town runner. If I lived in LA.....
But since I already changed the looks I feel like a different grill and dash might be ok.
First thing first though.

What do I look at next.

Step Side 88

I spaced it out my bad..
I did pull the VSV valve and it failed FI-77 1(d)
I have not checked the pressure reg or the actual injectors.
Still, between the ERG pressure mod and the VSV both being faulty I need to get them both replaced next .

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

have a mostly working EGR system, no vacuum at idle and a closed valve.

A clean ignition improved the idle but quickly reverts to crappy.

I'm wondering if it is the questionable plug, some where upstream in the ignition.

Did you swap out that spark plug or just clean it up. It could be cracked.

Next on the difficulty scale is injectors. Could be plugged or leaking. And could be number 2 or the cold start.

Before dismissing a clog, because it runs at higher rpm just fine, due to the fuel pressure regulator it could be over powering the clog at higher pressures(low vacuum)

You had a reading of 18psi and that gauge calibrated as reading 20psi low. That gives 38psi which is the minimum spec unregulated (38-44), middle would be 41psi. With regulation at idle (33-37) middle 35psi.

Now stuff that can be tested.
You ran the cold start injector test? No leaks (one drip per minute or less)?
The primary injectors have the same spec for leaks less than a dripping per minute. One of the local geezers detailed a hillbilly method that doesn't require all the fittings the FSM lists. (And yeah that is tongue in cheek he's probably younger than me) .. It consist of loosening the upper intake and inserting paper strips in the runners to the injectors.

Then it gets scary, valve leaking oil?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

High temp line pressure up system, Fi-77

Thats another one of the "it can't get more broke" things, do tests #2 and #3 if the coil is OK smack it around, carb cleaner, compressed air whatever's, and see if it frees up with out damaging the electronics.

You can bypass this vsv. There isn't a function description for this in the FSM. But we can deduce it from the title.. when the coolant temp reach's X (operating temp? Or higher?) It switches the vacuum off to the regulator giving maximum pressure.
disconnect the vacuum line at the regulator and it'll run at the higher pressure.
​​​​​​​by pass the vsv, regulator direct to plenum gas filter (the multi port thing at the rear), and it'll regulate to the lower pressure based on engine load.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

might want to confirm those numbers. the 80s 22re had lower pressure specifications, on the order of 30 psi at idle, and lower max regulated pressure.

i don't know what year the specs changed. it could have been '88, but it could be later.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52342740

wally

Step Side 88

Will do the drip testing when I pull the Intake tomorrow.
the manual im using is the 88 I downloaded from the link here.

it calls for FP 38-44psi @ idle without vac per FI-51 2-l and p
33-37psi with vac.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Specs were from the 88 FSM, uh I'll double check.

85 FSM specs are
RE 33-38 and 27-31. Flow rate 40-50cc/15sec resistance 1.5-3.0
88 FSM specs are
RE 38-44 and 33-37. Flow rate 40-50cc/15sec resistance 1.0-2.5
RTE 33-38 and 27-31. Flow rate 65-80cc/15sec resistance 1.1-2.0

The fuel pump relief valve opens around 55-60. That's the "pinch off the return line" test

Kind of wandered of subject, but this is important info for me since I'm forced induction. And plagued by fuel cutoff.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

appears that '88 was a change, as i said, i wasn't sure when that change happened.

with that, i'd guess that the OP's '88 wouldn't run at 20 psi.

Step Side 88

Is that an Mixture Control vsv just past the ground he's pointing at?
Whats it's real name?
The blue one at he back. I can't find it labeled in the diagrams.
Thanks. Its easier to look for something when you know its name...

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I'm not certain, I seem to recall the blue one is AC idle.

Anyways. The simplest way to ID a mystery wire is to do a continuity check between the plug end and the computer then check the pinout to match the pin with a name.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

on my '87, that is the 4wd pressure up vsv.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

confirming... I meant to come back to this but got sidetracked.. 've mentioned I got the A.d.d. right?

Step Side 88

Well isn't this special...
It's for either an AC or 4wd and I don't have either...
I guess it's trace time.
Thanks for the attempts.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Oh we both missed the typographical error there.

"High temp fuel pressure up switch valve"

Should say fuel not 4wd.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

actually, no. as noted, for the '87, the fsm refers to this in one place, plus the wiring diagram, as vsv 4wd. in the ecu pinout, it refers to the Fpu, fuel pressure up switch, 4wd only. it is probably different for the '88 2wd.

nowhere in the fsm does it list the purpose of or testing procedure for the vsv 4wd (or for the fuel pressure up switch). it is one of many deficiencies with the fsm; still better than the haynes.

the purpose has to be deduced from what is connected to it, where the wiring goes, etc.

Step Side 88

In the 88 manual FI-77 the VSV in question is the high temp line pressure up system. When the black- yellow stripe is traced it goes to the STA pin on the ecu.
I showed no continuity from the plug to the pin. Will try and determine if the plug connector or the wire itself is faulty next.
there is one yard with a few 22re engines up in Wa. I can go hit up today. That's where I got the CStemp sensor.

I also picked up a new gauge and rechecked the FP at the CSI. 20psi.
bummer.
so is it worth buying a higher end pump hoping it'll last longer than the $20-$30 or just figure on replacing it every year and buy 3 for < $20?

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

buy a decent pump. i prefer the denso, but it is pricey. the cheapies probably won't give long service. i ended up with a pair of mid-level quality pumps with lifetime warranty. one in the tank, the other stored on-board the 4r as a spare.

a new pump that works correctly should make your 22re run much better.