Drivers window crapped out
#1
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Drivers window crapped out
Been lurkin here for a while trying to find an answer and decided its time to join. I've got a 1993 4runner that I got for cheap. So far I've replaced a few leaking gaskets and changed the oil, otherwise its in perfect shape (minus the leather seats).
Two oddballs though. First, the driver's window stopped working, luckily in the 'up' position. My GF was driving and said "the window was working slowly and then died." I've read to check the door control unit under the dash, so I did and it looks fine. I even switched it with a junkyard unit and that didn't do anything either. Don't see melted solder or anything.
I practiced on the junkyard car and I couldn't figure out how to get the window motor out while leave all of the accoutrements in place (gears, window holder, etc.), or even necessarily what the motor was. I am guessing the black R/C battery pack looking thing that points up and is held in with 2 phillips screws?
My radio works so not thinking it is the radio "fuse" either.
Is it most likely the door motor? Easy way to check this? I tried hitting up the motor with a battery but I wasn't sure if the key needs to be in or if I needed to be holding the window switch up/down or what?
The 2nd issue is that the power mirrors don't work. I finally opened up the door to deal with the window problem and noticed the power mirror switch had a different connector than the wiring harness and wasn't even plugged in . I'm guessing the previous owner tried replacing something with a 1st gen piece maybe and it was incompatible?
Well, thanks for any suggestions and feel free to point me towards a thread that covers this, couldn't find one through google on here.
Two oddballs though. First, the driver's window stopped working, luckily in the 'up' position. My GF was driving and said "the window was working slowly and then died." I've read to check the door control unit under the dash, so I did and it looks fine. I even switched it with a junkyard unit and that didn't do anything either. Don't see melted solder or anything.
I practiced on the junkyard car and I couldn't figure out how to get the window motor out while leave all of the accoutrements in place (gears, window holder, etc.), or even necessarily what the motor was. I am guessing the black R/C battery pack looking thing that points up and is held in with 2 phillips screws?
My radio works so not thinking it is the radio "fuse" either.
Is it most likely the door motor? Easy way to check this? I tried hitting up the motor with a battery but I wasn't sure if the key needs to be in or if I needed to be holding the window switch up/down or what?
The 2nd issue is that the power mirrors don't work. I finally opened up the door to deal with the window problem and noticed the power mirror switch had a different connector than the wiring harness and wasn't even plugged in . I'm guessing the previous owner tried replacing something with a 1st gen piece maybe and it was incompatible?
Well, thanks for any suggestions and feel free to point me towards a thread that covers this, couldn't find one through google on here.
#2
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Get yourself a test light and check the power both at the switch and at the motor. You should have power at the switch with the key on. Check both up and down side of the switch. If that checks out, check for power at the motor when depressing the switches. That should get you going. It will tell you if its the switch or motor.
#3
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Power is supplied thru a circuit breaker, Aptly named POWER.
Start with checking the switch with an ohm meter. It's the easiest thing to get to and the simplest thing to replace.
Next is a volt meter at the motor connection. Once you know the switch is good and the power is there the only thing left is the motor.
You need to take it all apart (Please don't leave the window in the door, some salvage goon will slam the door and bust it). Wiggle the regulator and motor assembly out of the door and then you can test the motor(Drill battery pack, and some spare wire). Take it home lube it all up and put it together.
And HERE is the inspection section for the system, covers switch, control, and motor tests. Note power for the motor is thru the Power CB, and power for the relay is thru the Gauge fuse(No dash lights = Gauge fuse blown shouldn't ever happen because of motor overload).
Start with checking the switch with an ohm meter. It's the easiest thing to get to and the simplest thing to replace.
Next is a volt meter at the motor connection. Once you know the switch is good and the power is there the only thing left is the motor.
You need to take it all apart (Please don't leave the window in the door, some salvage goon will slam the door and bust it). Wiggle the regulator and motor assembly out of the door and then you can test the motor(Drill battery pack, and some spare wire). Take it home lube it all up and put it together.
And HERE is the inspection section for the system, covers switch, control, and motor tests. Note power for the motor is thru the Power CB, and power for the relay is thru the Gauge fuse(No dash lights = Gauge fuse blown shouldn't ever happen because of motor overload).
#4
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Thanks guys. Where is this "power" circuit breaker located?
Also, I diagnosed my leaking windshield washer fluid reservoir to be a failed pump grommet. Only replacements I can find come with a pump, which I don't need. Is there a home depot grommet or anything like that that will fit?
Also, I diagnosed my leaking windshield washer fluid reservoir to be a failed pump grommet. Only replacements I can find come with a pump, which I don't need. Is there a home depot grommet or anything like that that will fit?
#5
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FSM link, under Body electrical is the power window.
Check for power on pin9 of the master switch, plug pic is on page 1. Then verify the switch is working as it should, page 2. Then just follow along in the book
Circuit breaker should reset it's self but if you don't have power on pin9 make sure the dash lights work(Gauge fuse blown) also. Then check the circuit breaker and door lock control relay.
Check for power on pin9 of the master switch, plug pic is on page 1. Then verify the switch is working as it should, page 2. Then just follow along in the book
Circuit breaker should reset it's self but if you don't have power on pin9 make sure the dash lights work(Gauge fuse blown) also. Then check the circuit breaker and door lock control relay.
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