89silverpu

Ok so this may be somewhat of a newb question but who cares...who here is running an auto locker such as an aussie or locrite in the front of their rig with IFS and dual cases (or even without)? How is the steering and wear and tear on the CV's etc...? I'm thinking of throwing a automatic locker up front but don't know how well the CV's will hold up to the dual cases and 33's. I am geared properly in the diffs and normally don't go hard on the throttle, but sometimes you've just got to get it...I know TC, and AxleIke are running lockers front and rear with duals, but they are running ARB's I think.

Fink

Have you tried searching for this topic by chance?

Fink

fordmgt1

They won't hold up that well. I have welded friends front IFS diff's and they have broken front CV shafts the first trip. Of course, an aussie would not be as hard on the shafts as welding the gears, but I have known people to break them rather quickly. I've broken birfields w/ my aussie, but I'm running 36's with dual cases.

By the way, I'm not sure if i'm reading your post correctly, but an aussie is not selectable.

rusche

I'm running 4.88s, welded front, Aussie rear, and 32s. Havent broken anything yet.
Just gotta know when to be easy on the skinny.

dark_fairytales

I have a lockrite up front with 5.29's. I have only really noticed a difference in the snow, due to 3wd. It works great off road and steers well. I am always careful to only steer when the yota is moving forward or in revers. the worst thing you can do is steer when sitting still and that causes the locker to bind the cv's. I have not installed my dual tcase yet, so I cant give you any more details.

tc

Yes, AxleIke and I both have ARB's.

I can only speak for mine, but I heat up the power steering in A HURRY when the front is locked - now that is totally spooled, where a lunchbox will allow for some differential action. My angles on the steering are all stock, and the components seem to hold together pretty well. The more lift you have, the more problem that's gonna be.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I ran the set up for years no issues, had one cv boot tear but that was just an age thing. Stearing at a stop is more difficult but not impossible. With the dual lockers and dual cases if you won't have a problem.

As for my driving I've hydrolocked one engine and redlined another till it developed a rod knock. Personally I think its a logical progession of expereince and finances. Selectibles are superior to auto lockers by simple the options they provide but thats it at a cost of about 7X for the ARB possibly less with used gear.

I do have a selectible but haven't installed it, yet. Go with the set up you'll be fine.

WestCoastMoose

I just came across this today. Good read and should make your decision for ya.

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...als/index.html

I am going with the EZ as I already have a Detroit in the rear.

89silverpu

Nothing pertaining to my certain question.

Thanks for the input, and yeah that was me typing too fast thanks for the headsup


Do you have problems with the power steering heating up too much? Not being able to steer when stopped seems like a problem in order to line a tire up right to get over bigger rocks is it a minimal problem or really noticeable?

I have no lift so that wouldn't add any problems, how much easier do you think an auto locker would be on the steering components, power steering heating up etc...

Not quite understanding what your last sentence was trying to say


Thanks for the link! I imagine having the dual cases would help eliminate some of the wheel spin they talk about.


I guess my main question would be, is are the dual cases going to put too much torque on the front end r&p and cv's etc with an auto locker as compared to someone with stock low range. The way I figure, there would be less wheel spin so less sudden stops which like to lead to carnage on the IFS.

MuddfreaksOffroad

just my 2 sents, my dads got a 89 ifs with a detroit in the rear and 4.88s he busted the ring gear once and never had any issues with the front ALTHO ITS NOT LOCKED IN THE FRONT. None the less i have heard that ifs has weak spots. I havent heard much of a difference between a locked front ifs and open front ifs either way like someone said i think its a matter or experience. Id lock it if i was you, it helps out tremendously and if you find yourself breakin cv axles then sas it hahaha. JP for real it depends on what you are going ot use your truck for. Like my dad doesnt do hard core wheeling like me and some of my buddies do so for what he has it works perfectly fine.

OutlawMike

I'm running 5.29's with LockRights front and rear, stock transfer case.

The steering in 4Low is manageable. In very tight turns, you have to back up and go at it again. Steering the front on a high traction surface is a pain, everything binds up. But, if you pop it back into 2HI, that releases the front end from the drivetrain and it will steer a lot easier, then pop it back into 4Low. I do not do that often, but, rather than use the power steering pump to overcome the ratchet locker or slip the tires, it is better.

My pump has been holding up fine so far. The belt did get loose on my the first time out, and I retightened it. Nothing bad since then.

dark_fairytales

its vary minimal problem as you are planing out when you need to steer. getting used to planing your line ahead of time makes you a better driver anyway. I have not noticed any issues at all with my power steering. I have not checked for heat build up, but I have never had a squeak out of it. next time I go out ill check to see if the power steering gets too hot.

When it comes right down too it, the skinny peddle will be the cause of breaking a cv. With dual cases i dont see the skinny peddle as much of an issue any more.

shaeff

I haven't seen anybody mention the addition of a thermostatically controlled power steering cooler. It would be pretty easy to set up with an 11x8 B&M cooler. You can even get a kit with a fan included so you can mount it out of direct airflow and still have it work efficiently.

tc

I swapped my radiator over to an automatic tranny version and use the tranny cooler for the power steering. Seems to have helped a little, but still can have problems with boiling the fluid.

Junkers88

That right there is just this side of genius!

89silverpu

When you're on trails with big rocks like Fordyce and the Rubicon etc...you plan your line ahead but when you're in rocks like that, you've gotta steer in them which is what I'm talking about, I don't wanna have my front end binding up all the time when I'm crawlin through a big rock garden. What Outlawmike mentioned is a good idea and with a locked rear end, that should work perfect for disconnecting the front to steer.

And what you said about the skinny pedal is exactly what I was thinking...I guess another more specific question is are dual cases going to make having a front locker easier on the front end, or is the added torque just going to blow everything....seems like the duals would help cause everything is slowed down so much since you're not having to "bump it" as hard to get over the bigger obstacles.

tc

Note that dual cases don't eliminate the need to bump. LOCKERS eliminate the need to bump. Dual cases are really only an advantage in high traction situations - in low traction, when you need wheelspeed, they don't help at all.

drew303

Just tagging some FYI on to this. With dual cases your retain a stock T-case gearing setup so have wheelspin at your disposal as well as the availability of the double low range.

With a single case 4.7 setup, you effectively reduce your ability to spin the wheels (when you need to) and this is especially true for reverse, if you need to reverse out, which with a stock case you only have two reverse speeds, and one is just about worthless with the 22R in 4wd. With 4.7 you reduce the one effective reverse gear to a mere crawl.

Just tossing that out there Dual Case setups dont take away performance, you only gain =)

Oh and even tho you have 5 forward Low Range gears with the 4.7 single setup, really the only effective gear is 3rd to start out in to get that "wheel spin" ... So even in theory you might think well i have gears to pick that get me closer to a stock ratio going forward, in reality you dont. It's not very effective. This is talking from experience with 5.29 axle, 35 and 37 sized tires 22RET motor and R151 transmission.

dark_fairytales

I have not done fordyce or the con. I have come to a situation a few time where I had to steer while sitting still at full lock. I felt some bind and went vary slow, I used alot of clutch. the truck did not have a problem, no popping or any sound coming from the front. I do know if I went faster it would have broke for sure. When it come down to it, I feel vary comfortable having the front locked and if it ever do break something. I know I will only have my driving to blame. Plus a Cv shaft is not hard to replace anyway.

89silverpu

Ok seems about right that you just gotta know when and when you can't push it harder just like when it's open as well...and good point CV's are way easy to change especially if you have done the stud swap trick which I've done...and I just got a hold of a whole new front steering set up (all the tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, center link etc...) from someone doing a sas for trail spares so if one of them broke that'd be easy to swap out too. I'm thinking I may throw a front locker in their at the begining of the summer when I get home then.