aviator

Looks good super... plenty fancy too with them counter sink screws and washers holding the relays to the bracket.
I'd have put numbers on the relays and fuses so I would'nt forget what was which (but that's just me being anal ). Where did you mount the fuse block?

iamsuperbleeder

thanks!

that fuse block is mounted just below the factory fuse box, basically right above the tire

iamsuperbleeder

oh and I'm not worried about the wire gauge at all guys

100watts / 12volts = 8.33 amps

considering 14gauge wire has a MAX amp load of just a hair over 30amps, I've got TONS of room to play with for bulbs with higher wattages, but I don't plan on going over a 100watt high beam anyway, because I'm also going to be running the fog lights as well

xxxtreme22r

Where did you get that trick fuse block? Gonna do mine today. Although I don't have the H4 lights yet, For anyone who don't know you dont need the H4 lights to do the upgrade. Well at least the guys running the 6054 lights. Its the same plug.

iamsuperbleeder

The fuse block is just this little $8 fuse block I found at Advance Auto Parts; pretty much any auto parts store should carry something similar.

It allows for 6 hookups, with a total of 30 amps each. Just make sure that the main feed wire leading from the battery to the fuse block can handle all of the combined power, lol. I actually doubled that lead wire up with 2 12 gauge wires, so it,s capable of handling just over 80 amps (more than a stock alternator can actually output ), and with all the lights running, I'll only be pulling about 50 amps through it AT THE MOST (that would be 6 100watt bulbs), so I'm well within range

iamsuperbleeder

I got home with enough light to wire in my 4th relay, for the Hella 500FF's I'll also be running on the new bumper I guess I should have made the relay mounting bracket a little longer to mount the 4th relay, but this will do, lol

dntsdad

Hey I am seriously not trying to be a snob or a prick but with those lower quality relays, I would sure care a spare.

I would take $20 and go to car stereo shop and pay the kid working there and get some Bosch or P&B relays. They will outlive you and your truck.

Headlights are so crucial I would want to get stuck in the dark because of a crappy relay.

Otherwise, it looks awesome!!

I built a harness for mine with 10ga. a while back just because that what I had laying around and it worked well.

betelnut

RED CHINA!!!

Yup, is the wiring diagram different? It looks like he'd have to take those terminals on the relays marked 'ground' and connect them to +12V. The original plug's "ground" terminal would simply be disconnected (or used for the +12V source for the relays...).

So the idea here is to eliminate the existing headlights and replace them with Hellas?

Are the Hellas just bulbs or entire headlight assemblies?

I'd assume they're whole assemblies, but if they fit in place of the original assemblies, I'm confused why the original wiring doesn't work.

xxxtreme22r

If you look at mine they don';t go anywhere. Niether does the one from teh other guys tutorial that we followed

X88&94GT

How about these? http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eA...com-189849.htm Im planning on switching to H4 and will have some aux lights as well. (Probably Lightforce 240s if I can find an ARB bumper to put them on.)

881stGenRunner

Im subscribing to this thread. Im def looking to get all this done on my 4Runner and need to learn as much as possible. Keep posting up the links and all the info please!!

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing you didn't do any night comparison shots?

Was it worth all the effort?

iamsuperbleeder

truth be told, I didn't follow my schematic drawing exactly

I ended up running the ground from the original headlight plug to the ground on the relay... it wouldn't work otherwise come to find out, after probing with a test light for a bit



I still have a set of H6545 or whatever they are bulbs sitting around, so as I'm going to install the new H4 conversion lamps, I'll put the sealed beam in one, and the composite in the other and connect the old fasion sealed beam to the OEM plug, to show an OEM setup vs. converted and upgraded setup at night

874runnersr5

jeez. and i though wiring up my oil pres guage was fun... whoooo 3000th post

iamsuperbleeder

lol

it really looks a lot more complicated once it's done that it actually is

Just have to keep a few concepts in mind; each relay needs it's own constang low amp ground and fuse high amp power input, then it has a high amp 12 power output going to whatever the relay's turning on, and then you're got a low amp switched power to kick the relay on via a switch. Then you just have to decide how you want to rout the wires, and then run the wires for each circut separately (at least on paper), and make all the necessary connections to tie everything together

Joshua4507

so by doing this what was the outcome ? are the h4 bulbs brighter? is that what the goal is here?

iamsuperbleeder

simple answer is, good H4 bulbs with a good composite housing give better light, and a better light pattern than your average one peice sealed beam square headlight bulb

BUT, using the H4 bulbs pulls more of a strain on the electrical system since they are going to be higher wattage than standard sealed beam head lights. You can plug the H4's into the OEM wiring harness, but the wiring is not designed to carry the current for the bulbs, thus there's typically a significant voltage drop which ruins any chances of the conversion doing any good and with the wires not being able to carry the current, there's also the chance of wires heating up and shorting, which is never fun Upgrading the wiring harness will change all of that; give the bulbs all the amperage they need, and do it safely, so that you can get all the avantages of the upgraded lights


Basically, it wont do any good if you're only ever going to use standard replacement one peice sealed beam bulbs

Joshua4507

good to know

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

may do this when I replace the alt. I am not real happy with factory loght.

xxxtreme22r

Dang it, hwhy didn't i see this yesterday, gonna go try that out. I thought mine wasn't working bacause of a switched power vrs switched ground.

EDIT: I just switched thsose grounds and boom, but bleeder did you notice that high lows stay on with the highs? no diode needed!!!!!!!!