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Alright after searching and knowing there isn't a way to get flares cheap...i came across these on JC Whitney. The reviews say that the one with the integrated wire on the lip wont let it ripple. anyone tried these before? i'm in desperate need of flares because the slightest puddle gets my windows covered. thanks! oh and the price is great
Alright after searching and knowing there isn't a way to get flares cheap...i came across these on JC Whitney. The reviews say that the one with the integrated wire on the lip wont let it ripple. anyone tried these before? i'm in desperate need of flares because the slightest puddle gets my windows covered. thanks! oh and the price is great
Those are the flares I picked for my truck. Still need to finish fitting them (doing some front and rear fender work that needs to be done first), but they seem to fit fine on the one I have worked with.
subscribed-I am a 3rd gen but this was the idea I had come up with also but have never attempted it. I do however see a pop up ad that just appeared at top of page for a great price on Bushwackers.
Please let us know how well this works- and if you can do pictures that would be great and if not let us know so we could Private Message you with our email addresses to see how a visual.
In theory those sure seem like they would work just to match up to the predrilled holes under the wheel wells. (fender lips)
the flare "seal" will twist away from the body at any hard bends in the wheel well (the gap in the photo is not from the dent).
this is one of the few mods that I didn't want to do before I even started (rear wheel spray helps keep the tailgaters off my a$$ and the truck looks goofier now with my Hanneman fenders), but had to for state inspection since the tires stick out just a hair. I got the 1.75" flares, but if I had to do it over would have went with the 3" instead
For what it is though, not a terrible product - FYI the flares are stiff enough that you shouldn't need the ones with a wire in the outside edge (I think the "heavy duty ones?)
i have used them and acualy still have an box of the ones that require the fender lip to still be in place sitting in my closet, i was impressed with them for the price but again you get what you pay for
we used rubber parts like those on the trailers I used to build (weekend warrior and carson trailer).
we found that careful placement of bracing parts in the 'backside' around the apex of the tightest radii (around corners) helped keep the rubber in place without gaps.
One other thing . . . if you live in a "rust belt" state, this probably isn't a good idea as it's an easy place for rust to start. the screws that came with my flares already have a very light coat of rust on them after only a month or so - this rust will travel to the fender metal and spread like cancer . . .
I have a 2005 Tacoma, with Fender Flares on...but, they are short about 2.5". When I go hunting, I end up with the entire side covered. After looking at the Bushwackers, actually, every one out there, nobody seems to make extended fender flares for the 2005 Tacoma Double-Cab with a Short-bed.....I'm thinking these might be the ticket. Anybody have any close up shots, from the side, or different angles?
I was considering getting the ones with the wire, but somebody posted up, they are already stiff enough????
im posting this here because it's a DIY thread and I certainly couldn't justify 300+ dollars for plastic. Go to your local Home Depot/lowes/ menards, etc and pick up some black garden Edging. About 20$ for a 40 ft roll, so you and a few buddies could have flares for nada. Grab some fender washers while you're at it to avoid incomformities/ add strength.
38.5" for the front and 46" for the rear was the length that worked for me. Remember when measuring out hole spacing that this material is made with a slight curve as in nothing is a straight line. Plotting many points and tracing allows more accuracy. May take some experimentation and a few brews to get the holes lined up but measure twice and go slow. Beer sip often. One important tip is to place holes so that each fender screw is slightly pushing material towards previous screw effectively reducing gaps from forming and a uniform curvature.o
The full width is roughly 4 " and you'll notice that the material is rather flexible other than the lip. The less material( I.e. More narrow) fender will be less flexible and less liable to bend/warp etc. 2" was the sweet spot for rock/spray coverage, good looks and maintaining rigidity in fender. Slap some paint on and it looks very clean. Good luck enjoy it, I love the look and protection from rock and mud spray . Or, don't. Just go buy it like a good sheep for 300$.
Last edited by sticksnstones; 07-15-2017 at 10:12 AM.
OK so I know this thread is old and just got bumped so thought I would post my experience with them.
ran the flex flares from Whitney. Never put the wire in the set on my Trekker
10 years old
Used a similar set from Amazon that was about $50 on the 4runner
I didn't do the best install job on them because they are temporary to satisfy a fix it ticket until I install a set of Jungle Flared I got for father's dau
12-19-2008, 02:06 PM
