choppe777

Hi All,

My 1994 4Runner, 22RE engine went absolutely dead while driving yesterday.
The repair shop identified and replaced the distributor (not the cap, actual distributor).
The truck now turns over and runs but is NOT drivable due to extremely rough idle and misfiring.

All plugs replaced and most electrical looks to check out fine.

The mechanic thinks it 'might' be the ignitor ($400!!!), but won't bet more than 50/50 on it.

What kind of trouble did the failure of the distributor possibly do to my poor 4runner??

-Chris
San Francisco

AppalachianOffRoader

Did they set the timing properly, or at all? Check the timing first before you start replacing anything, or getting bent over again at the shop.

choppe777

Thanks for the reply!

They claim to have checked timing.
Also checked compression and a lot more.
They are 'at a loss' and don't seem too confident it's the ignitor either (again 50/50).

I may get it towed home and put a junkyard part in when I get a chance.

I still need some advice. Anyone have troubles after a distributor failure??
The mechanic thinks there may have be a voltage spike to the ignitor when the distributor went... is this reasonable?

ksti

Agree on the bend over part from post above.
This a classic case of lets throw parts at the customers car.
Was the distributor a re-built (exchange) or a new one?
Did anybody show you the diagnoses specs (showing failure of distributor?)
I like this one: "it might be the ignitor" 50/50 $400.00--that's just plain stupid.

Do you know if they even checked for codes stored?
Did they note the compression readings on your invoice. wet/dry?
If It was me, I would tell them to put back my old dizzy.
You might as well, being it still doesn't run and your going
to have to tow it anyway.
Tow it home and pull out the factory service manual and do some diagnosing. It's not that hard. Good luck, hope you find the problems.

choppe777

Here's a wonderful photo of my distributor.
Definitely the problem!!!

It was a NEW replacement. He tried used first and got the same trouble with the idle so we went with trying new. New didn't change the problem.

MAJOR UPDATE:
The truck idles and runs absolutely fine AS LONG AS YOU ARE HOLDING THE KEY IN THE 'START' POSITION TO START THE CAR!!
Once you let go, all bets are off and the car is undrivable. Undrivable even holding the key since the starter is still engaged.
Very strange. That's why he thought it's the ignitor.

Thanks again for the response... still working on an ignitor. Looking for a local cheap one. No so easy for some reason.

scope103

That is interesting; the key position (start v. run) has nothing to do with the ignition.

But it has everything to do with fuel. If you have an intermittent COR (Circuit Opening Relay) or VAF, it may not be holding the fuel pump on well enough to keep constant pressure in the fuel rail. This seems really odd, but it is really easy to test: jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector (which starts the fuel pump with key-on -- you can hear it while standing at the diag connector). If it runs fine then you've found your problem.

[I suppose you could have a very odd problem with an intermittent ignition switch, so that the ign circuit is cutting out unless you hold the key, but that seems unlikely.]

Igniter problems ARE hard to diagnose because there is no way to test an igniter. But since yours seems to be working at least a little, I'd put my timing light on the wire from the coil. At idle, you should get a nice, regular flash. If not, it could be the igniter (or coil or distributor) cutting in and out. If you DO get a regular flash, I'd think "fuel."

choppe777

Thanks!
I ran out in the dark tonight and tried the jumper trick.
The fuel pump runs as expected.

So you are saying this means it's the COR?
I'll pull the COR and test with a voltage meter tomorrow.

RSR

Did your mechanic run the FSM tests on the electrical pickups on the "new" distributor? A lot of the remans are out of spec on the electronic pickup's resistance... Worth checking at least. New Richporters are fairly cheap from amazon... Beats twice that at the parts store.

scope103

Not quite; if the TRUCK now runs with the jumper, it means there was a problem in the COR-VAF circuit. It didn't keep the pump running without the jumper.

But if the truck runs (or doesn't) run the same w and w/o the jumper, then you've only eliminated the COR-VAF as the problem.

Let us know what happens.

choppe777

I ended up installing a BRAND NEW distributor, so no reman here. All new connections and equipment.

scope103:
I'll be pulling the COR this evening and report back soon.

Thanks again!

RJR

I think you're still missing scope103's point. BEFORE you disassemble anything else, go back, short FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector, and then start the truck and see if the TRUCK runs properly. If it does, the problem is in the VAF or COR. If it still misses or dies after you release the key from the start position, you have other problems.

Let us know the results of the above test as soon as you run it.

RSR

Before your start replacing stuff, spend $10 on basic multimeter and start checking all of the ignition and afm sensors per FSM specs. Just b/c something is new, you should still double check the electronics, including the resistance on your wires as well as the connectors/connections of all components. Takes a little time, but definitely saves you money over just dropping a bunch of new parts in...

choppe777

Haven't had much time to look into this mess.

The COR is good. I checked the relay and also jumpered per above and it checked out.

I got a junkyard ignitor and it now won't even run in the 'start' position, where it would before with the other one. I'm now guessing it's not the ignitor (or coil).
Maybe it's the ignition switch.

I'm gonna try some of the FSM checks and see what I can find.