Jipopotamo

I searched. I searched lots. Here and elsewhere. I surfed all over google. I have read plenty of numbers. But it doesn't help any if I just don't understand the concept altogether. Read ends, differentials, and gearing is something I have never dealt with and I am utterly lost. I have an 87 4runner and am about to put a freshly rebuilt 22re back in there. I have about $2000 to my name as of now and am going to spend it as necessary to make this 4Runner a long term investment as it will be my long term vehicle and home on the road. I am getting a new short block, new head and replacing the replaceables under the hood. That is already happening.

Question now is where does the rest of that money go to stretch the farthest?
-With the engine rebuild, should I take advantage of the situation and replace the clutch while there? The vehicle is 240,000 miles and plus.
-I very much want to regear the differential from the 4.11s I have to 4.56s that will better match the 31"s I am running. But I have no real clue what that means. I have looked and looked and seen the pictures but I just don't know what to get or how to do it. I know I can learn it, I just need some heads-up. I figure since the rear diff started leaking real bad here lately and I want to regear it and it will be a long term investment that I can afford, should I get a locker and be done with all rear diff intentions right off the bat?
-If I change the gearing in my rear diff, do I have to match my front diff as well since 4x4? Idk, this is my first 4x4 vehicle and I am still learning lots.

Thanks guys.
Cale

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Cale,

You should check the clutch, if it all looks good then just reuse it.

4.10s are fine for 31" tires. Front and rear diff must match.

No need for a rear locker unless you plan to take it off-road.

Read here:
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/

abecedarian

Gear ratios are this: for every turn of the input (driveshaft), the wheels turn so much.
Technically, gear ratios are notated like 4.11:1; 4.56:1, etc. But since the ratio is always X:1 or "X to 1", the "to 1" part is often ignored. With 4.11 gears, the driveshaft turns 4.11 times for every wheel revolution. With 4.56 gears, the driveshaft turns 4.52 times for every wheel revolution. You can also equate the gear ratios with using cheater bars on sockets: a 1:1 ratio would be like a 1' bar on a bolt and a 2:1 ratio would be like a 2' bar on the bolt; a longer bar puts more torque on the bolt, making the bolt easier to turn.

As for where to put the left-over money... how much money is left over after replacing the engine?

kiyobrown

Search "rear end swap" on here. I believe all the links "eriks diff info". As well as a gear calculator that you can plug in your stock gears, stock tires and compare the rpms to 4.56's and 31's. So you can see why folks regear. There are some good threads on how to swap em out. Trust me, I read em all, then swapped my gears no problem. Happy reading.

Jipopotamo

Solid info. Thanks much.

Ok clutch will be inspected and we'll see. What am I looking for with that bad boy, the telltales of a clutch needing replacement? It has been shifting and driving fine until I blew the engine so I feel like the tranny is fine.

4.10s aren't going to be underpowered with 31" 10.50s? I really have no clue on this past what the online gear ratio formulas tell me and they point me towards 4.56s but my ears are open.

I do intend on taking it offroad. It will not be a dedicated rock crawler but I will be doing many trips to the American remote wilderness. I want my truck to be able to go where I need it to, but it is not a trophy rig. I know lockers are a big improvement and I have the cash now and a leaking rear that I will have to open up anyway. I don't mind a little cash now for long term dependability. Think "Into the Wild" but with a really well equipped base vehicle. I want to explore the US.

So with that in mind, I am already rebuilding the 22re pretty much stock besides steel guide rails, an ENGN BLDR RV cam, 1 brand new injector and sending three off for cleaning/balancing. I am buying a new short block and new head so everything will be stock but with that factory freshness. I don't need it to be a monster. I need it to be there every time. Any and all input is appreciated. Let me look up how to post pics and I'll show ya some.

Cale

kiyobrown

You can run 31's with 4.10's it will be a little underpowered, but not enough to ruin your day. 4.56's came stock with 31's from the factory, so easy to see why folks run them together.

I guess it all depends how much cash you happen after the engine is finished. Then you have to choose between gears, tires, and a locker.

Jipopotamo

As far as budgeting, the head cost me $210 but that is a complete head minus rockers which I will reuse. Full gasket kit and head bolts from ENGN BLDR: $83. New Short block from City Motor Supply outta San Antonio, Texas: $380.

So $2000-$380-$83-$210= $1327

I'd like to have a little of that for gas to drive the thing when its all said and done but other than that, I'm willing to spend at least another $1000. The suspension, exhaust and electrical are all adequate for the time being. I am thinking big ticket items that are usually one time costs per vehicle lifetime. I want to get the things I will enjoy for a very long time. I want this to be my goto rig for the next long while of life. I really love this truck.

Jipopotamo

And my tires are brand new Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armour 31" 10.50 R15. Regardless of whether or not they are a tire people like, they are what I made the decision to buy when I did and I am going to get their full lifetime until replacement so tires are a non issue.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

My truck:
22re, stock 4.11's, 225/75r15.

I stuck on 31x10.5's still with the 4.11's. It was a little annoying being EVEN slower than everyone else.
I tossed a 4.56's in my truck. Worked great but I felt it was revving a little high on the highway for my taste.
I bought a set of 33x12.5r15's, it's basically back to stock as far as RPM's. Now the only problem is that I no longer have any torque or power to climb hills anymore. I need to downshift on the long and steep ones. It's a little hard on the clutch when starting from a stop.
I've got a set of factory 4.88's waiting at home. I'll toss 'em in when it gets warmer. I'll report back when I get them in.
I'm tempted to toss in an Aussie locker with my 4.88's.

kiyobrown

I fount my set of gears for $220, but then there are a handful of options for lockers from almost $300 all the way up. If you can't install it, you gotta factor the locker install as well

Jipopotamo

By the by, if any of you remember that I was part of a 3 member expedition to South America that should have crossed the border 11 days ago. 5 miles from the Texas-Mexico border, the engine blew up. Many things happened in those next few days down in McAllen and long story short, the team broke up. Priority was not in order. So here I am back in Austin, with a blown engine, but the truck is my own. And it's all I have. And $2000. But I ain't too bad off. It has custom front and rear bumper, custom built cargo top box, safari rack on rain gutter bars up front, two jerrys, full size spare, 1500W 400w and 175W inverters, dual battery set up, 90 amp alternator, solar panel, two lockable toolboxes where the old spare went, platform deck in the cargo area to double space. It is a really capable vehicle and it was ready to goto south america. Except the whole "engine blowing up" part. But I am seeing this as an opportunity to enjoy what I almost completely lost. I am staying in the states for the next while, exploring all the places I have never seen here in my own back yard. I will be using couch surfing and friends to see all over the 49 I can get to in this 4Runner. I am looking for homeland adventure so if you know anything near your stomping grounds, please feel free to lengthen my list.

Jipopotamo

And I definitely intend on installing whatever I get myself. If I can't do it, I don't want it done.

abecedarian

With a manual trans, I'd probably lean toward 4:56 with the 31's. 4:88's will get you a bit more torque to the ground but at the expense of higher engine rev's and possibly slightly lower mileage on the freeways. 4:10 is a little under-geared for 31's but does well for mileage on flat ground- you'll find yourself downshifting on somewhat mild grades.

I wouldn't, personally, include the cam as part of the criteria for choosing gears.

And I have to question the logic of replacing one injector and balancing the others. All the injectors should be balanced / flow matched- you could end up with the new one flowign less or more than the others... just a thought.

Jipopotamo

I was wondering about that last point myself Abe. I just didn't know myself and couldn't turn and ask my neighbor. And this leads to a bigger question for me. I know my injector situation needs attention. The three old ones just look spent. So is an ultrasonic bath and flow matching just as good as a new one or is the money better spent on a new part than reconditioning an old one?

abecedarian

I don't know much about how the injector services do their things- whether they will replace an injector that is way out of spec with another, etc. But like I said, I wouldn't just replace 1 and balance the other 3- having all 4 balanced is important.
I'm sure someone will chime in.

90RunnerRed

Where is your differential leaking? It could be a free fix or fairly cheap. Just asking in order to give you options.

Jipopotamo

it is a fairly recent leak that I haven't had until maybe two weeks ago and since noticing it, it is quite a leak. I can't say really WHERE it's coming from because since the engine blew, I put it down the inspection list a bit but I know that the spray goes EVERYWHERE in that vicinity and the drip pools together right off the bottom of the diff. How many different places can a diff leak from? If I had to take a wild guess, It'd be on the front side where the driveshaft hooks up-ish.

raydouble

They should be able to tell you the OEM flow of a new injector and what the other 3 are at....then go from there.

Pinion seal, drain or fill plug and axle seal......or hole in housing.
Sounds like the pinion seal if it's getting flung.

I'd get under there and shake the pinion flange, should be zero up and down or side to side movement.
If it's got movement the flange nut may have gotten backed off, crush sleeve got more crushed, or pinion bearing toast (doesn't take much leaking to starve the pinion bearing of lube.)

abecedarian

The point being there's no way of knowing that the 'new' injector will flow the same as the 3 other balanced injectors... unless the new injector is purchased from the same place balancing the other injectors and all 4 are being compared.

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

With 240,000 I would look real hard at rear axle bearings, and rear diff. period. Kinda cheap, and kinda easy to replace axle bearings and seals.

4.56's will do fine. I have 4.88's with 31's and it rev's down the highway. stepping up to 32's soon.