Capp

Hi guys, I tried the search with no luck. My problem is the detent cable on my 1987 toyota with 4 speed overdrive is broke. It shifts into second perfectly, but I have to lift foot off the gas pedal to get it to shift into 3 and 4. When I tried to adjust the cable, that's when I found the kink in it. I recently took the motor out and must have done this when I bungee corded it out of the way.
Has anyone any information on this problem? If you have I'd like to pick your brain if I could. I can't seem to find a cable or directions on how to install it.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Capp

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...46prelimin.pdf

Adjustment is on AT-182

Fordless

I would definately try adjusting it b4 trying to install a new cable. The cable costs about $100 from the dealer and isn't easy to install b/c of a braket on top of the trans. That and the trans end of the cable attaches in the valve body. The cable bracket makes it where you would probably have to drop the trans to get to it. What I did is just ride around with two 14 mm wrenches in my glove box until I had it adjusted to my liking. I can make mine shift by letting off the gas or she'll shift on her own if I build up enough rpms.

Capp

Thanks Co 94 PU....Fordless... for answering my question. I have already tried adjusting. My problem is the cable is broken. I was hoping someone on the forum has already had to do the repair and could add some pictures or tell how they did it. Maybe someone will chime on and help me.
Thanks
Capp

Fordless

Give me a couple of days. I've got a spare A43D in my shop. I'll snap a couple of pics and post them to give you an idea of where the cable runs over the top of the trans.

Capp

Thanks a million Fordless, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Do you know where I can get an aftermarket cable?
You wouldn't happen to have a book explaining the process of putting this cable in would you? That would be a big help.
Thanks so much for all the help.
Capp

Fordless

The factory service manual details the cable R&R. It's a 93 manual but it's the same trans and basically the same truck.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
There is no aftermarket supplier for the cable that I am aware of. I did a good bit of research on it a while back when considering the purchase of another truck like mine. You gonna have to go to the dealer. There are some dealers that sell online for cheaper. But it's going to be faster to get it from your local dealer.
The trans in the pictures is dirty but you can see the cable bracket I'm talking about on the bell housing. In my opinion, it's gonna be virtually impossible to get that off with the trans still in the truck. I also snapped a pic of the cable going into the case.
Good luck!

Capp

Thank you Fordless, that helps a lot. I'm like you the transmission will have to be pulled. I can do that alright, and the manual you sent, wow that's great. I'll get on that thing and study up on it to see if the valve body has to be removed or not. Lord willin I'll get it this spring.

Couple more questions: How big a job is it to get the cross member out of the way, or do you pull the motor and take transmission out that way? Can the transmission be scooted back far enough to let the front down then slide it out forward under the motor. How do you do it?

Thanks again Fordless, you've helped me tremendously, I hope I can repay you someday.
Capp

Fordless

If yours is like mine, and I suspect it is, the crossmember is welded in so no moving it. I think the thing to do would be to jack up the trans unbolt the back ie drive shaft and mount and then do the bell housing. After the BH is unbolted then get someone to help you wrangle the trans down and out between the motor and crossmember. The A43d isn't really that heavy and two people should be able to man handle it. The best way to get at the top two bellhousing bolts is gonna be a swivel socket 1/2in drive 36in extension and impact gun.

Capp

Your right about the crossmember being welded. I looked in the manual you sent and it basically says what you said. I'll get the cable first then take the transmission out. It will be a few weeks, but I'll keep you posted, and thanks again for taking time out of your day to help me.
Capp

Capp

Hey guys, I got it fixed. I slide the heat shield back and saw that the cable wasn't itself broken, it was working, but the cable had pulled loose from the metal end that held the two 14 MM adjustment nuts. I pulled it back and took my knife and peeled back a little of the black coating finding 6 straight stiff wires, and a small pipe that the cable ran inside of.
I mixed up some good ole JB weld, and put some around where I peeled the black coating off, and into the metal fitting. I crammed it all back together and it held. I came back to it every 15 minutes and pulled the cable to make sure it wasn't going to be welded with all the rest. I did this many times that day, and I let it set for a couple of days. Put it all back together, went for a test drive did some adjusting and it's working great.
Thanks for all the help.
Mark/Capp